pete roper

Dave's bike is essentially the same as mine. The pipe we got from Todd does work, and it will work better once the fueling is sorted, but it is ear bleedingly loud. I do have the dB killer but haven't installed it yet as I simply don't want anything that will richen up the top end further but I might experiment next week if I get the time. Mine also has the #2 map in which makes a big difference especially at low RPM/small throttle. On my bike with the original map and pipe it used to hunt and 'Microsurge' at small throttle openings in the 2500-3750RPM range which was a real pain as that is of course where one tends to ride in traffic and built up areas. Second map virtually cures that. Mine runs much better when the ambient temp is hotter than it does when it is cooler too. The air temp compensation, (And I think the engine temp compensation.) is all screwy and will have to be addressed at some point. I find it runs best when ambient is between 23 and about 27 degrees C, (Although it ran great when ambient was 38*C as well come to think of it.) so I'm thinking of elliminating the ATS and simply puting a resistor in to see how that works. Pete

Nah, just look at the tube or applicator, the one I use is supposed to be good to 350*C which for this area is pushing the envelope a bit but it seems to work. I simply bought some shimstock and cutit to length and wrapped it around the ends of the headers until they were just able to squeeze into the Y piece with a bit of judicious tapping with a hide mallet. Then as they were about half way on I put a goodly smear of wonder-snot around the shimstock and tapped the Y piece home before tightening the clamps and then wiping off the excess snot. I did this first time around and didn't use quite enough shimstock. The pipe must of still been able to move slightly as the shimming eventually broke up. I suggested to Price that he flare the ends of the Y piece so that the original kingerlite or whatever they are Guzzi pipe gaskets can be used. It won't look so neat but they seal well and that is important if the O2 sensor isn't to get a false mix and therefore screw with the closed loop trim. I'd been down the coast over the holidays and because I always ride with ear plugs in I hadn't noticed the pipe rattling but did think that the bike was feeling harsher and leaner than normal and had started backfiring a bit more on the over-run. Once it was sealed up again it returned to being its usual raucous abut enjoyable self. Pipe sealing is very important. Dunno if you saw the graph on Guzzitech? The AFR at full throttle is woefull, even with the second map almost all the way through the rev range. it starts off horribly lean and then after about 4,500-5,000 it plunges into a sort of hydrocarbon hell of richness, (To protect us from ourselves don'tcha know! we wouldn't be able to cope with the extra 5-7HP it would make if it fueled up correctly ). Still 96RWHP aint to shabby for a starting point. In the next couple of weeks I hope to be able to start mucking around with map modifications. I'm getting mixed messages about the PCV and whether it will be available for Guzzis or even W5AM equipped Ducatis. If the worst comes to the worst I suppose I'll have to buy one of the map writer programmes and start from scratch Pete

It bounces on the rev limiter at 235. Limiter cuts in at 8,500. Quite fast enough for any sane person. Pete

Dave, a couple of things. Get your pipe gastight, especially around the joints from the headers to the Y piece as the O2 sensor will screw things up in the closed loop phase if it's getting oxygen in with air, especially *upstream*. I've had this problem and it is neither Todd or Price's fault, it's due to the fact that the gaskets on those joints on the original set-up being so soft and flexible that actual pipe diameter could be all over the place. I know Price modified his next pipe to *your* dimensions and they didn't fit my bike. It's hard to make an aftermarket pipe for something that seems to have the tollerances of a piece of semi-flattened roadkill . I bought some shimstock and made shims to fit mine up and the relied on a nice coating of hi-temp silastic. Lets face it, the stuff is bugger all use for anything else. Next? Get the second map in there. If you've seen my dyno pull on Guzzitech you'll know the 2nd map is far from perfect but it is a Shirtload better the the stocker. I now no longer have any popping or stupidness at all apart from the transition point from where the ECU sees the throttle as fully closed and when it starts seeing it as opening. at that point, on downhills as you feather the throttle you can get it to pop. otherwise? Normal, just like a real motorbike! . Pity that you didn't get a chance to show what its capable of. If it had been me I'd probably had it one gear lower and revved it a bit more at most of the road speeds shown but you are of course in the UK/Ireland, the roads are tiny and highly trafficked (Sp??) compared to here so that simply may not of been filmable. I wear ear plugs all the time and the more restrictive the better but get that motor on song, above 5,500, with that pipe and good ear plugs and the effect is sublime!!!! pete

BFG? How many miles you gotta on your 8V now? Has your top end exploded yet, (If you'll pardon the term ) I have to say its absolutely amazing what a ranting f#cktard on the internet can do. If you go over to Guzzitech one bloke, single handedly, has put more people off buying an 8V than anybody has put people off buying a Guzzi before. Friggin' brilliant. The new motor is a gem in my book, mine gets thrashed, really like 'Red Line' thrashed regularly and I'm working on getting the FI better so I can thrash it harder. It's been faultless, and I've almost been willing it to blow up so I can actually analyse the problem myself. No such luck, so I have to take it in the neck from piss-wits and watch the company, even though it is no longer an independent company, get it in the neck, again. Who's for a Punchin' Party??? Pete

Nobody in Europe stocks 'em. I've never been approached by anyone. Air mail fro Oz costs about $27AU I think. Pete

Does it have to be on the bike? How about the 'Big Richard!', 'Pearl Necklace' made from genuine rhinestones mined in Rhineland? An addornment for only only the biggest suckers??? Pete. PS. Note I need no encouragement to be gratuitously distastefull. I'm a middle aged man who doesn't give a flying f#ck. If I offend you? Sorry but there are a LOT nastier people than me out in the big bad world Pete

Had cause to try a bit hard today..... http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3365/319782...d8645a6.jpg?v=0 "Cocky want a biscuit???" Don't worry, its a cultural refference Pete

There is also the fact that is there is an air gap below the plate the oil will still tend to 'Slop' rearwards under acceleration as the air will squeeze up through the assorted drain holes quicker than oil will, even when the oil is hot and thin. Because there are holes in the plate the oil will, eventually, still migrate rearwards and if the acceleration continued for long and hard enough or you were on a steep enough incline for longe enough you could, theoretically, still get pick up exposure but it is my belief that for all practical, real-world purposes this is very, very unlikely ever to occur. Pete

Incidentally, if anybody hears of a V11 on the west coast of the USA with a torched motor that wants to sell it I'm in the market. It'll have to be in good condition otherwise but a torched donk, even a Scura with an exploded flywheel, would be OK. Pete

It's very eay. When installing then plate mark the stick just under the plate. Then when its all back together fill it until its full to the new mark, (And 100-200ml either way are really irrelevant but I'd suggest less rather than more.). Once you have it about right park the bike on its sidestand overnight, then withdraw the stick and mark where the oil is. That's the mark on the sidestand. Done. Pete

Yeah of course, and once again, sorry. Pete

I've got enough prospective orders to do another run of plates so I've got another 10 in train and they should be available next week about this time. Cost? Not sure, but it is unlikely to be more than the last batch as metal prices aren't what they were but who knows what stock units the manufacturer covers, I'll be able to say for sure when I pick 'em up. Long and the short of it is that what they cost me, as a reapeat customer, plus freight and a %30 mark-up which is my filthy, capitalist, proffit is what you'll pay rounded up to the nearest five bucks. There are people who have built their own using my design as a template, I really have no problem with that, if they were then selling 'em and claiming it was all their own work I'd get the shits, especially if they were undercutting me, but at the end of the day I can gaurantee you that if you factor in your time and effort plus materials, (My labour rate is $75AU PH.) I think you'll find that my product is not obscenely priced. Put it this way. I aim to make a case of beer on every one I sell, and no, I'm too old and fat to do six-packs....... Pete

[quote name='SFSig' date='Jan 13 2009, 09:32 PM' post='154223' The crazy thing is that it seems like the new battery has breathed new life into the bike. Not only does it start up faster and stronger, but I swear it idles better as well... Is this possible, or am I just excited to have a working bike again? hmmmmm..... I'd still check to ensure that it IS charging. The reg/recs on this system aren't the cleverest in the world. Is the charge light working and going off above idle? Stick a V meter on the battery and give it a rev. As others have said it should charge at or near to 14V. Big step from mopeds to a V11. Be careful. Pete

Yeah, but if you go to the North Island you run the risk of running into Nuttridge on his Mk II Lemans. Scary I can tell you Pete

For those in the US of A who want a plate I'd suggest giving Greg a call at MI and Todd may still have some at MPH as well. For people elsewhere I'll do another run of 10 as I think that is just about covered now. Price remains the same as it has for the last couple of years I think $150-ish AU plus postage. Once again I apologise if I flew off the handle a bit, my bad, but I do have a bit of shit happening in my life at the moment and the odd paranoid 'Dummy Spit' is par for the course. Sorry for jumping down your throat Molly. Thanks to all that PM'd me about Val. It's one of those things, when the last parent goes you know for sure, "We're next!" Some of the PNW gang met Val when we came over 'en-famile' about five years ago and know she was/is a game old bird, but her race is run and we're just waiting............. Pete

If there is enough interest I'll do another run, looks like I might have five or ten interested parties at the momemnt which makes it worthwhile. Sorry if I seem crabby but if you do go back through the assorted threads on this issue you'll find I've taken a lot of flack from f#ck-knucles over many years. At the moment I'm watching someone I love dearly die in my home and, well, things aren't great. So if I seem testy it isn't only because I'm a miserable obstreperous bastard...... pete

What was wrong was it was phrased in such a way that it looked to me to be yet another know-nothing, unimaginative smartarse having a go. sorry, but over the years I've got a lot of it and i tend to snap pretty easily at the moment. I suggest you do a search on the whole history of the plate and why I designed and recommend it, as I said there must be at least half a dozen pretty detailed explanayions on this board alone as to what the problem is and how a plate, mine or one of your own or someone elses design, addresses the problem. As for the ability to add an extra 1/2 a litre of oil? The plate acts as a barrier between the spinning crank and the oil in the sump, therefore the distance between the crank and the surface of the oil in the sump becomes a non-issue. Yes, some of the oil that is draining back can be picked up by the cyclonic forces imparted to the gas in the case but this is minor compared to what will be whipped up and carried around if the frothy surface of the oil is directly exposed to those *winds*. Actual pressurisation due to the reduced volume of the case will be a fraction of the 500cc or so removed by the addition of oil so the risk of seal damage is minimal. As for the effects of accelerating steeply uphill for an extended period of time and the reason a plate with holes in it will eventually loose its benefits in such a situation? surely it isn't too hard to figure out??? Pete

So I ake it that this is an attempted piss-take to suggest once again that even though I have TRIED to explain a million times and at least a half dozen times on this board alone, in tedious detail WHY there is a problem with the un-baffled V11 'Broad sump' itteration of the Guzzi big block that I am trying to take people for a ride/rip them off/sell them snake oil/rampantly proffiteer at the expense of the gormless. Look, I've explained it so many times I'm just 'over it' OK, you think it's snake oil, that's fine. tell yer mates how you 'Showed Me' or whatever it is you're trying to prove. Quite frankly I can't be arsed. Pete

I have yet to have an 8V apart because despite the stories of catastrophic failure mine remains stupidly unadventurous and just *Goes* BUT! I do know a man who has and one of the things he commented on is that the spigots on the bottom of the barrels are about a foot thick. Like the walls of a medieval castle! OK, I'm exagerating just a bit but they are apparently much, much thicker, and the crankcase orifices are designed to take them, so the obvious conclusion is that the tourers are going to get a considerably bigger bore. I'll get the pen and paper, (Remember them, for 'Sums' at school?) out later and work out relevant capacities based on the currently available crank strokes and I'll betcha that 1400cc will be easily in the mix. Do I think it sensible? Not at all. I'm not one who thinks that money and development time should be wasted on idiots who are afraid they can compensate for their, (Imagined!) tiny todger by having a BIG engine in their bike. If Guzzi/Piaggio want to use the Nuovo Hi-Cam as their swansong in the air cooled bike engine territory the last thing they want to do is over-bore it and turn it into a vibratory, crank-case pressurising, oil spewing, seal bursting munt-box. It's not like the lesson hasn't been learnt before. What would I know though? Go the HUGE engine! @#!#$# Yeah!!! Pete

You forgot option 4/ Take it and leave it in a foreign country a long way away so you have something to ride when you visit Works for me! Pete

1200 Sport is nice http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3223/307624...bd1284b.jpg?v=0 Griso is nicer Pete

Bugger 'Cafe Racer'. I tried to link the pic direct but the board says 'Get Lost' so you'll have to make do with this. http://www.flickr.com/photos/44512000@N00/3070648650/ Pete

One has to be a cretin to not accept such help if offered. Pete

This is the bearing the bevelbox swings on? Worry no more! The expanding puller used for the needle rollers in the old five speed gearbox works just dandy. Guess how I know? I'm sure you know someone who has such a thing? If not if you can turn it around quick I'll lend you mine. Buggered if I know why the Guzzi bearing has an 'ole in it? To let water in and cause rust I suppose! On Nige's bike I couldn't get a bearing with a 17mm (?) race so I went for an 18 instead and then used a spare race from a five speed thrust bearing off the clustershaft as an excluder. When the whole thing clamps up it makes no difference as the bearing is a 2RS type, (SO why the hole to let shit in???) and if you honestly worry about a 1mm offset in the wheel you can either take it out at the swingarm or, as I did, simply believe that tyres aren't THAT precise! Pete