PhilPassmore

How about something like these for the pegs? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-Universal-Motorcycle-Folding-Foot-pegs-Footpeg-Rear-set-Rest-Racing-Black-/360653798400?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item53f8a43c00 I got a brake pedal welded when I fell off and busted mine. Otherwise, try 'Reboot' Phil

True, that. The tail light is on fuse 6 with no relay. While the brake light has to get its power like the headlamp (and other circuits) through both the first (starter) relay and the second (headlamp) relays. The copper contacts deep in the taillight assembly are notorious for getting soft and flat and loosing contact with the bulb. Reaching in with an angled probe and giving them both a sharp bend to press well against the bulb contacts may be necessary. Electrical flow for dummies (like me). The copper contacts deep in the taillight assembly are notorious for getting soft and flat and loosing contact with the bulb. Reaching in with an angled probe and giving them both a sharp bend to press well against the bulb contacts may be necessary. Electrical flow for dummies (like me). Just remember to power OFF the rear light before prodding with anything metalic, or you will soon find you need a fuse replacing too! Phil

I confess I have been thinking about making one for mysely out of some hex alu bar and a couple of heim joints. Not sure how much I would have the bottle to machine it for lightness though. Phil

I have just been and measured the rod on my Sporti (not sure how close it is to the V11). The standard rod measures pretty close to 410mm centre to centre, with the swinging arm being 400mm pivot to axle centres. So already there is something about the geometry that takes it outside of being a simple parallelogram, and I can't imagine that another 10mm is going to make an enormous amount of difference. In fact, the differences in length may be something to do with the distances between the rod ends and the axle and pivot centres, I'm afraid I didn't measure that. Making the rod longer won't have any effect on your ride height, what it will do is rotate the bevel box backwards slightly beyond what it is already. This MAY improve the way the two universal joints interact, I am not smart enough to figure that one out. Phil

If you are in the Nottinghamshire area, I am more than happy to help with a cludge/repair. Have loads of nuts/bolts/screws/studs to hand, plus tools to make up specials. Phil

And if the water drain one IS blocked, please sort it before you get a tank full of water from accumulated rain, rust in the tank, a blocked fuel filter and a trashed fuel pump! Cheap to fix, expensive if overlooked,

Shorai LiFePo units are good, and remove a large chunk of weight from high up, far back. Mega pleased with the one I fitted on my Sport ie

Went to see them in Bradford UK in about '81. Not an experience I would repeat, sorry. Out of curiosity, why? Looks like Nik Turners Hawkwind is on tour again this year. http://ultimateclassicrock.com/nik-turners-hawkwind-2014-tour/ Ken Musically, they completely failed to impress in a live gig. Listening to them on vinyl was fine, but live didn't do them any favours at that venue (St Georges Hall IIRC). It may of course have been down to poor production, but even 'Silver Machine', quite a hit here, didn't move me anything like the way I thought it would. Phil

Lithium based batteries tend to give their best when all the cells are charged to exactly the same terminal voltage. Charging a 'battery' with a number of cells wired in series conventionally (e.g. when it is run on a vehicle or charged with a normal charger) does not ensure that this happens, and over a period of time the various cells can end up with markedly different terminal voltages. I think this is probably due to individual cells having slightly different internal resistances, but that's not a factor you need to be concerned about. On the Shorai batteries, there is a small port, covered with a rubber bung that permits charging of each of the cells within the battery, effectively in isolation, resulting in all the cells remaining/becoming 'balanced'. It is common practice in the radio control fraternity, and modelers often balance charge each and every cycle. For them it is probably more nescessary as the batteries are treated very harshly and taken to extreme levels of charge and discharge in very short periods repeatedly, with high currents in both directions. Phil

Went to see them in Bradford UK in about '81. Not an experience I would repeat, sorry.

Only one possible explanation; You are drinking it too slowly!

Just fitted a BS 12 to my 1100 Sportie and it spins it up a treat. The main advantage of the larger capacity one in my book would be ability to supply higher cranking amps, and the smaller one seems perfectly capable in that regard. The weight saving is unbelievable. Balance charging these units once in a while is to be reccomended, but shorai chargers are quite pricey, but if you hunt for B6 lipo chargers on Ebay (as used by the RC model crowd) you will find them available easily and cheaply. These can then be reset for the LiFePo chemistry of the Shorai's and will then perform a variety of charge functions. It's a simple push button thing, and if any one wants directions, there are videos on youtube or I will help. Phil

Even later to the party (sorry); I picked up a pair of brand new Leo Vinci carbon cans meant for a GSXR, and with a modest outlay to a local engineering shop had a pair of stainless adapters made to slip onto the Guzzi pipe to mate with the Gixxers three bolt flange. If you go the adapter route, a whole load of cheaper options becomes available. PS, the small scuff on the can was the result of an off at Cadwell Park Phil

Bicycle gear change cable can sometimes be forced through an offending blockage if it has occured in the top section of metal tube round the filler. Check though if the block is in the rubber drain section, as this can be cleared fairly easilly. Phil