Alfanatiker

Bjorn, http://smotos.de has two used gearboxes => http://smotos.de/Ersatzteile/Getriebe_Teile.pdf

Try these instead of OEMs - they also look better than NGKs http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Champion-PRO5U-Spark-Plug-Caps-2-silicone-5-K-Ohm-resistor-plug-covers-/111994133744?hash=item1a135edcf0:g:7GAAAOSwcL5XM0VI&vxp=mtr

My Mistrals w and w/o db-killers ...the "white" is ceramic grease.. ....but beware: you absolutely wouldn't want to drive behind yourself without the db-killers in Gunther

I think so also. But the rarest is the 146 with the 16V Boxer. Only 4800 pcs. have been built worldwide. I bought a 146 in '95 new and gave her in exchange for one of the first 156 in autumn '97 . Following years i was unhappy with this deal, i missed the sound and the tingling on my a.. of the Boxer. In 2009 i randomly found a 146 Boxer for sale on the net - she was the mine and i bought her back.

Living 10 kms next to the italian border it isn't possible not to drive italian cars. Mine are Alfas, as i current have: 159SW TBi, Brera V6, 146 16V 1,7 Boxer my 95 and a well preserved Bertone (2000 GT Veloce) my 71. And as heritage from my father a MB W123 230CE, mj 76.

A member of the german V11 forum has fitted a LED Headlight from truck-lite (with pics) http://www.v11sport.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6646 Gunther

Gratulazioni! La ottima moto per viaggiare senza mal di schiena. L'anno scorso ero quattro settimane con la mia Breva in Sicilia e Sardegna (5000km), quest'anno sei settimane in Grecia, Turchia, Bulgaria, Ucraina e Romania (8500km). Senza Problemi, con la V11 (attualmente il cambio è rotto) che sarebbe impossibile. mandi Gunther

Had the same few times on my Breva. In my experience it's a bad connection -batt to frame combined with the circumstance that the dashboard (where the "battery" voltage is measured) doesn't have an own wire directly to neg. batt. e.g if the wire (+cable lugs + screws) from neg. batt --> frame has 0,05 ohms (the starter motor consumes an average starting current of 100 amps / series wound motor) you will have a voltage drop of ~5 volts on this connection at the moment of starting. CARC starting procedure is: startbutton --> + --> input ECU then output ECU + --> to starter solenoid. If dashboard detects "low voltage" it sends "stop starting" over CAN to ECU and you will hear the wellknown "klack". I did an additional wire of 6 mm² (AWG 10 or 9) from neg.batt --> fastening screw generator --> fork and never again heard "klack".

some years ago afair guys of the german forum made mixed tests on a dyno with several exhausts, crossovers, airboxes (with holes drilled in it) and open filters but w/o remapping. Every test ended with less power and/or less torque. Luigi and Mario aren't silly . So, if you change anything at air-intake or exhaust and you wanna get maximum out of the engine you have to remap. Gunther

Looks like an early Stucchi Gunther

Here it's on stock (#24, the upper one): http://www.wendelmotorraeder.de/schaltung-v11-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033012.html If you wanna order it write to info@wendelmotorraeder.com. They deliver with DHL. To save time and money for p+p tell them not to send as a parcel but as "Maxibrief international" (https://www.deutschepost.de/de/b/briefe-ins-ausland.html). Think, 5-10 days and you will have your "Ratchet" Gunther PS: http://www.tlm.nl/webshop/en/ratchet-v11-012351300000-moto-guzzi , p+p to US 35,00 EUR, holidays til 18th Aug.

Some good short cuts there. I never managed to get the PAWL arm off with the cam gears in place. Must be a knack to it. You have to remove the limit stop of the ratchet. There are two versions: 1st with a spring pin (as it has mine) - pull it out with a pliers 2nd with an excentric bolt (from VIN KT111436) - remove it by unscrewing the nut on the outside of the cover - remember its position and don't loose the gasket. "turn out" the ratchet from under gearwheel #14 ...... (holy sh.., my English ;-) Ok? Gunther

First of all remove neg. from battery. On the roadside it's not necessary to drain the oil. Lay the moto on the right side - ~30 deg from horizontal will be enough. ........ After opening the gearbox DON'T touch or move the gear forks! Take the cover and mark the position of gearwheel #12 to gearwheel #14 exactly (tooth to tooth) Remove #12 Don't touch or (re)move the gearwheel #14! ....... Change spring Attach gearwheel #12 in the former position. ...... Close box.... and drive Gunther