Alfanatiker

Bjorn, http://smotos.de has two used gearboxes => http://smotos.de/Ersatzteile/Getriebe_Teile.pdf

Try these instead of OEMs - they also look better than NGKs http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Champion-PRO5U-Spark-Plug-Caps-2-silicone-5-K-Ohm-resistor-plug-covers-/111994133744?hash=item1a135edcf0:g:7GAAAOSwcL5XM0VI&vxp=mtr

My Mistrals w and w/o db-killers ...the "white" is ceramic grease.. ....but beware: you absolutely wouldn't want to drive behind yourself without the db-killers in Gunther

I think so also. But the rarest is the 146 with the 16V Boxer. Only 4800 pcs. have been built worldwide. I bought a 146 in '95 new and gave her in exchange for one of the first 156 in autumn '97 . Following years i was unhappy with this deal, i missed the sound and the tingling on my a.. of the Boxer. In 2009 i randomly found a 146 Boxer for sale on the net - she was the mine and i bought her back.

Living 10 kms next to the italian border it isn't possible not to drive italian cars. Mine are Alfas, as i current have: 159SW TBi, Brera V6, 146 16V 1,7 Boxer my 95 and a well preserved Bertone (2000 GT Veloce) my 71. And as heritage from my father a MB W123 230CE, mj 76.

A member of the german V11 forum has fitted a LED Headlight from truck-lite (with pics) http://www.v11sport.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6646 Gunther

Gratulazioni! La ottima moto per viaggiare senza mal di schiena. L'anno scorso ero quattro settimane con la mia Breva in Sicilia e Sardegna (5000km), quest'anno sei settimane in Grecia, Turchia, Bulgaria, Ucraina e Romania (8500km). Senza Problemi, con la V11 (attualmente il cambio è rotto) che sarebbe impossibile. mandi Gunther

Had the same few times on my Breva. In my experience it's a bad connection -batt to frame combined with the circumstance that the dashboard (where the "battery" voltage is measured) doesn't have an own wire directly to neg. batt. e.g if the wire (+cable lugs + screws) from neg. batt --> frame has 0,05 ohms (the starter motor consumes an average starting current of 100 amps / series wound motor) you will have a voltage drop of ~5 volts on this connection at the moment of starting. CARC starting procedure is: startbutton --> + --> input ECU then output ECU + --> to starter solenoid. If dashboard detects "low voltage" it sends "stop starting" over CAN to ECU and you will hear the wellknown "klack". I did an additional wire of 6 mm² (AWG 10 or 9) from neg.batt --> fastening screw generator --> fork and never again heard "klack".

some years ago afair guys of the german forum made mixed tests on a dyno with several exhausts, crossovers, airboxes (with holes drilled in it) and open filters but w/o remapping. Every test ended with less power and/or less torque. Luigi and Mario aren't silly . So, if you change anything at air-intake or exhaust and you wanna get maximum out of the engine you have to remap. Gunther

Looks like an early Stucchi Gunther

Here it's on stock (#24, the upper one): http://www.wendelmotorraeder.de/schaltung-v11-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033012.html If you wanna order it write to info@wendelmotorraeder.com. They deliver with DHL. To save time and money for p+p tell them not to send as a parcel but as "Maxibrief international" (https://www.deutschepost.de/de/b/briefe-ins-ausland.html). Think, 5-10 days and you will have your "Ratchet" Gunther PS: http://www.tlm.nl/webshop/en/ratchet-v11-012351300000-moto-guzzi , p+p to US 35,00 EUR, holidays til 18th Aug.

Some good short cuts there. I never managed to get the PAWL arm off with the cam gears in place. Must be a knack to it. You have to remove the limit stop of the ratchet. There are two versions: 1st with a spring pin (as it has mine) - pull it out with a pliers 2nd with an excentric bolt (from VIN KT111436) - remove it by unscrewing the nut on the outside of the cover - remember its position and don't loose the gasket. "turn out" the ratchet from under gearwheel #14 ...... (holy sh.., my English ;-) Ok? Gunther

First of all remove neg. from battery. On the roadside it's not necessary to drain the oil. Lay the moto on the right side - ~30 deg from horizontal will be enough. ........ After opening the gearbox DON'T touch or move the gear forks! Take the cover and mark the position of gearwheel #12 to gearwheel #14 exactly (tooth to tooth) Remove #12 Don't touch or (re)move the gearwheel #14! ....... Change spring Attach gearwheel #12 in the former position. ...... Close box.... and drive Gunther

Did you check your main brake cylinder? Maybe the back flow port is partially clogged and pressure falls to slow, Enough clearance (5-10mm) between brake lever rod and piston.

15 mm for the ratchet and 16/17 mm for the spring is ok. Most broken springs were found in KS-Series ex works because there was a bad series of ratchets with a diam. of 16 mm. Maybe some of the these ratches were sold as spares and can now also be found in KR and KT series. You can find a nice illustrated tutorial to change the spring on www.v11sport.de (even on the road and without draining oil ) Warning: Don't drive without a spring, a SPDT-Relay and pliers for circlips onboard. Gunther Ok thanks a lot. What do you mean that i shouldyn't ride with broken spring? i was running with the broken spring for over 15 km... i was have only the 1 gear saw i drove to my service station... i meant: Driving away from home on a V11 you should have always with you: 1 or 2 Relays e.g. http://tinyurl.com/n9aums7 1 or 2 Springs http://tinyurl.com/q3scv4p #25 1 Pliers for circlips e.g. http://tinyurl.com/ptpfg9a - you will need it for #13 and eminently for #26 (for #13 alone a screwdriver would do) - isn't a high quality tool, but you can disassemble into it's parts (very small) 1 Allen-wrench 5mm, short side cut to 10-15mm - you will need it for the lower left allen-screw of the cover (situated behind the frame) 1 Toolset e.g. http://tinyurl.com/o787xqp 1 Tube of sealant e.g. http://tinyurl.com/nazx9cp - between cover and gearbox there is no gasket - you have to use sealant With this things on board you can drive your V11 around the world - changing a broken spring in 20 minutes on the roadside. ....and when ready.... 1 Pc. of e.g. http://tinyurl.com/pxd2kar Gunther

Incorrect ratchets have been built in (ex works) before VIN KT111435 - KS112350. https://www.dropbox.com/s/glwocc7nka4kfcp/Sperrklinke.JPG?dl=0

15 mm for the ratchet and 16/17 mm for the spring is ok. Most broken springs were found in KS-Series ex works because there was a bad series of ratchets with a diam. of 16 mm. Maybe some of the these ratches were sold as spares and can now also be found in KR and KT series. You can find a nice illustrated tutorial to change the spring on www.v11sport.de (even on the road and without draining oil ) Warning: Don't drive without a spring, a SPDT-Relay and pliers for circlips onboard. Gunther

Nice group, like it We (a Triumph Tiger, a Yamaha R1 and a MG V11) and a few trikes in the Dolomites, the rest of the parking area fullfilled with duckbills. (I've always thougt duckbills only live in Eastern Australia and Tasmania ) Gunther

Took a photo this weekend here in Austria: The name of the village "Edelschrott" would be in english "Noblescrap" Gunther

On stock at http://www.stein-dinse.biz Gunther

I'm using this one on my Breva & LM: http://tinyurl.com/osu5u27 Works like a dowel. Gunther

http://www.wendelmotorraeder.de/motorgehaeuse-v11-03-05-cafballabio-ex-30_3006_300602_30060205_3006020530_300602053001.html Flange to backorder from factory (delivery ~2 weeks), gasket on stock. or http://tinyurl.com/qdr4jyk Gunther

and my mountain goat