Alfanatiker

Scura is listed here: http://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11Cafe_Ballabio_2003-2005_PL(F).pdf and here: http://www.wendelmotorraeder.de/shop/index.php?cPath=1_8_10_8694 Gunther

Yes, indeed. Think, Switzerland and Austria are the most expensive countries in CE. e.g. a new Cali Touring costs € 24.990, till the end of year we have a special offer for € 22.999

MG spare: GU92201821 (OEM FAG or SKF) Price: € 26,80 Dimensions: 20x52x15 mil. European standard: Bearing No. 6304 ZZ or No. 6304 2RS (ZZ means cage sealed with steel, 2RS sealed with NBR) Price FAG/SKF aftermarket in Austria: € 5,00 - 6,00 - bearings also available in stainless steel. http://www.skf.com/ca/en/system/SearchResult.html?search=6304 Gunther

Age of battery? Nevertheless, its worth to try. The parts cost only a few bucks. Agree, if the alternator runs under constant overload courios things happen and no electronics can help. Why do you think MG did this? - Power supply for the ECU is directly connected to battery without relay, ECU of CARC-models is alive as long as a battery is connected. ( they had heavy problems after installing ABS :-)

Sure, good idea, could be mine . The schottky works as fuse also. It withstands repetitive pulses of 250 amps for 10 milliseconds but will be demaged when the current exceeds 8 amps constantly. No, not necessary. Should work. Before you do anything: Compare the V11 schematic around F1, the relay and the ECU with your motos reality carefully. Mario and Luigi in Mandello are unpredictable - they are used to drink red wine out of the barrel :-) Gunther

Take out one screw and use a caliper. Maybe one of these: https://www.louis.at/katalog/suche?search_term=schrauben%208&searchButton=&page=1&main_category_id=450 could fit. Or visit ebay.de, enter the search string: Linsenkopf schwarz 7380 and order the right ones Gunther

No, this is a high frequency filter, which filters HF - Transients with minimal power but a wide frequency-spectrum and shortens them to ground. The closer the better. To understand my schematic here is a very, very simple explanation: Imagine C1 ist a little energy storage. With no load C1 is loaded near to battery voltage (and is therefore full of energy). The schottky lets the current only flow from + to direction load, load to + is impossible. -> the schottky is a one-way-valve. Therefore other loads onboard cannot consume capacitors stored energy. Now you switch your load to on, the first current spike appears, system voltage breaks down. This is capacitors moment: He gives the stored energy to load. Current spike disappears, system voltage raises to its old value and capacitor will be reloaded out of the battery and so on. Read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor I can't give a one-size-fits-all solution via the forum because i've to less information, it always will be a try and error. With your bike in my garage and my scope it would be peanuts. Another idea would be to use my schematic on the ECU to provide stable voltage for it (injector timing is voltage dependent !!) . Use it for pin 17 of the ECU and relay No. 49 . Fuse F1 -> Schottky -> Electrolytic 10.000 uF with 1nF in parallel to negative ground -> Relay pin 30 + ECU pin 17. Gunther v11-schematic.pdf

Ok, Diode: Schottky; Amp max ~ 2x Amp load; e.g for 2-3 Amps load -> Digikey FMB-G16L-ND C1: Electrolytic; 1000-2000uF / Amp load; e.g for 2-3 Amps load -> Digikey 4482PHBK-ND C2: Ceramic; 0,1uF; e.g -> Digikey 490-7514-1-ND Ground C1 and ground load should be on the same point.(screw). MG uses a similar "construction" on Breva, Norge, Griso and Stelvio for exclusively buffering the supply voltage for the ECU. (e.g. see schematic Breva V1100; look for connector 61 and 62 - but nothing connected ex works, only a jumper in conn. 61). MG spares AP9100739 and AP8127491 Gunther edit: Back in office today i searched for a better diode here in .at, also available at Digikey: 497-2737-5-ND --> higher forward current, higher reverse voltage, less forward voltage drop than FMB-G16L-ND

Think,with your LEDs "on" you have overload on the alternator. Unfortunately most LED-Beams have internal switching power supplies with constant current regulation which produce hard currentspikes in motos electrical system. Your "Module" (it's a pulse width modulation) does the rest. The currentspikes bring your alternator into magnetical saturation and the voltage breaks down in common mode with the spikes. The regulator also can't handle the spikes (10 kHz....1MHz). Would be a good idea buffering the Module primaryly with a diode and an electrolytic with an foil condensator in parallel to damp the pulses. Typical oscilogram of a swps (green: LED output voltage, red: input current) http://postimg.org/image/4j2eiwbor/