Martin Barrett

Do we have brushes. From the parts diagrams I'd assumed we didn't I replaced those on my RD200DX 25 years ago. The chap at Haywards said the out put was within limits. I don't have a clue with whats going on I think she might be having a holiday at Cambridge, that way he can deal with the seized altenator cover bolts I've had enougth experiance of sheared bolts and extractors to last a life time. It's true is a passion of the heart. The extremes I feel towards my Guzzi. /

I just want to see a good race. But must admit I'd like to see Vale come back and clinch it A real life larger than life hero.

It will be joining my FJ1200, I've now moved it back in to the garage, Had to take the rear brake caliper off and deploy the rubber mallet to free and remove the seized rear brake pads. not mine but close, I've got blue air scoops that and the paint splashes within the speedo cause me to doubt it's provenance I've decided that I need a "contingincy plan" for those guzzi character moments. I failed to start this years National rally due to the charge light. And I'm currently revisiting this. Despite this she still passed her MOT test today. So Shes three years old fully taxed, insured and road worthy but I can use her So I've several motorcycle projects to get my teeth into ( don't forget my mobylette for my son whose 16 next year) and none 100% currently

Just in case anyone hadn't seen my charge light thread - this was my burnt out connector. And six months on I'm having other issues, and still trying to bottom out if its bad connections or someting else. It went to Haywards and couldn't identify what was wrong but a clean up of the connectors and fuse block got it working. I put my original regulator back on and the symptons started again with the charge light on just over tickover but going out. 3 days later it's back to being on all the time again. Put the new regulator back on and it's still playing up. The UK price for a regulator is £102.

Thart's the 2nd prefered option. The best option is to ride it more

Doesn't allow for deflection. The laser hit is more like missile lock rather than a dog fight. But much more exciting they're advertising the Red Bull air races on the telly.

Isle of Man - been looking at it since Nige and Pete raised its status, makes very interesting reading, especialy in conection with the EU. reminisant of the film Passport to Pimlico

I think I reconise the moustache and hair line. So this is a micro biologist HARD at work in his research lab

Big foot crunch for me . I'd never considered the stop and click down

another thing to worry about. Up untill now I only had to contend with Guzzi paranoia and history/key stroke trackers

I think you'd have to pull the tank and find where the leak originates from, There are a couple of nipples that breather hoses (only one hose on my 03) attatch to underneath. I'm not sure if you have the internal fuel filter or an external one on the Tenni, but that could be a source , I think one position for the filter was forward under the tank, so a couple of joints to check. Hope the tank is in it's self sound. At least the source should be obvious once pulled.

As always lots of valid opions. These are mine. Being a "SNAG" is much more acceptable these days. It's more acceptable to display your emotions. Emotions can be a dangerous thing. If you keep them bottled up the dam could burst. Following the birth of our miracle baby there got to a point where all the pressures were adding up, having held the family together and work as well I could feel myself loosing it. Less than a fortnight off from work with stress was able to sort it out. Yes football is only a game and they are over paid namby pamby celebrities, but have you ever failed at something that has been your lifes work, and perhaps the opportunity may never present it self again? Also the unrealistic hopes of a nation (well it's tabloid press) were placed on your shoulders and this must heighten the scence of failure. I think it's vastly unfair to make that military/sport comparison. Yes this week the 90th anniversary of the Somme offensive. We should remember that, and we should remember soldiers who are in harms way currently. The press too easily whip up mass public hysteria and grief (Diana), and primarily only want to sell more papers. Ordinary people still do amazing things of personal bravery when confronted with the need to do so or the duty. Some can have the benefit of the body’s self defense mechanisms cutting in others only the cold realization that something needs to be done. Whilst not proclaiming myself to be brave but in my case sences of duty and necessity: I'm squeamish I don't watch medical programmes on the TV, but I attend an incident I deal with the blood and gore there and do whats necessary. I don't like getting hurt but I have to interject in violent situations and be prepared to take lumps. Okay I've not had to face an obvious mortal danger but have confronted people armed with knives and guns. (This hasn't happened in the last few years since I've been on inside duties ) On a daily basis I deal with the dregs of society, the theives, the drunks the socialy indaequates ( and then theres the public ) But I still believe that when push comes to shove the ordinary man in the street will stand firm.

I've been previously berated for running my level at about 1/2 full to allow for the propensity to blow off any extra, as it tended to find it's level so to speak. But I've found if kept topped right up I don't get any flickering oil lights. The last time it flickered was the other week when the oil level again had dropped, and I hadn't checked since going to Germany which was about 1500miles previous and involved long periods on the autobahn. I think as a model is particularly sensitive to oil levels and needs to be checked regularly - a sight glass would have been good.

My moneys on it being one from the bevel box. There are two it could be. Unlikly its the one that goes over the neadle roller cage in the far right hand side of the bevel box. There is one that goes between the bevel box and the wheel, This one can drop out when you've taken the wheel out and can be overlooked I'll see if I can find it on the parts diagram thats allready been posted, or I post it up myself later for you when I'm back at home Edit - others have got their replies in whilst I'm typing slowly and expressed it much more eloquently Further edit - http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ype=post&id=294 Shown far left but falls out through the cush drive from the middle of that big roller needle bearing thingy

Ricky, I was back at Haywards today and they were uncrateing I think it was 4 more Grisos. There was one on the ramp and a couple more as well as a few Brevas and some other stuff. Seems by next year there could be several used ones about. If this level of activity is being matched around the country things are looking up.

Mr Roper was right it is a mighty Motobecane/Mobylette I'm not sure exactly what the correct model designation is. I did get this picture of the Moped Army site. (they called it a SP50R) Mine was first registered October 64.

If it's been left outside, depending on salt etc, there is a good chance the paint will lift from the bevel box and a few ancillary pieces. I seen parts that have been resprayed using the Harley engine paint and have looked good. But 3,000 miles is nothing, but the bike is approaching 4 years old. With that few miles its possible that all the niggles haven't materalised and you'll have to sort them out. It all depends are you going to look at it or ride it? Do you expect to keep it a short while and sell it on without losing too much money. You could put 5K on over the next year and not lose too much keep it any longer or any more miles and the price will plummet. I think Guzzi are really a long term bike, you've been looking for/considering one for a long time. You need to decide is a V11 right for you and get one soon, they're a finite stock and reducing. You've been around long enough to have seen most of the problems that crop up, if that hasn't scared you off all well and good, if it causes you doubts consider a Griso/Breva but that will be obviously far more expensive as new. This is only my opion based on only ever buying a few bikes and run them all into the ground. My Lemans is 3 years old and has 26k miles year round and is again poorly.

Yep, Pedal start. Quicker 0-15mph than my mates Honda SS50 with pedal assistance of the line Wheels is wheels, and while you're capped down to a limit why not revell in something slightly different. I used to give my mate a hard time that my moped was older than his A65 BSA classic that he was restoring for when he passed his test. He borrowed my RS100 Yamaha do take it on.

This is happening now. But not for me. A DNS due to my charging issues This was my proposed route and this is how it would have looked on a map Well there's allways next year. On the plus side I've spent the day with my family and have been to two school summer fayres

My new rectifier arrived this morning. So fitted it no change Voltage across the battery doesn't rise when running. I've got conductivity back down to the rectifier. I got a spark against the oil line I've got out put from the gennerator. I'm measuring 20V rising with rpm not getting a stable reading but will reach 80V. Am I not getting enough output from the gennerator for the rectifier to do it's thing? Or is my new rectifier bad out the box? I think I'm ending up going down the same lines as Felix

Take your camera this time Greg!

I have my one of these in my mum's garage, hasn't run since I turned 17 nearly 25 years ago. My eldest has just turned 15 and next year could ride it. I have mixed feelings about putting it back on the road for him. I'm not concerned for his safety but that of my moped which is actually a couple of months older than me

I'm sure Freud will notice the large white phallic oil filter, The gold horns like breasts, the alternator cover reminisant of a pregnant womans belly. and my laymans interpretation is you're a hermaphrodite

The problems has resurfaced When I last serviced her, on restarting her the tick over speed had dropped (600 rpm) and the charge light would come on but would have gone out once the revs lifted a little bit. A week later it was nearly 1,000 rpm before it would go out. I checked my bodge connector and re did it. It made no difference. I've easily done 6-7k miles since the initial repair. To day on the way home the charge light came on whilst cruising down the motorway and hasn't gone out. I immediatly suspected my connector seemed fine pulled it apart all good. No difference on reassembly. I then spit it again and used my multimeter as a ammeter in between this connector. No current flowing. I then reassembled it and split each of the yellow wires and again used the multimeter as an ammeter and was getting a flow at tick over up to 2.35A pollarity was reversed on one. I therefore think my rectifier has turned its toes up. I've pulled it off the bike I had planned to try and test the diodes for conductivity ( Got myself a auto electric manual ) but it's a sealed unit. Is there any other tests I can do with it before I commit to a replacement? Having reread this thread I haven't checked the battery voltage to check it goes up when running. I've trusted my ammeter reading. Should I re do this test also? Think I might do this whilst waiting for your replies - I'm not hopefull that it will be charging and the fault is with the charge light circuit. Edit- Been out put the regulator back in, checked the battery voltage. Fired her up no charge light But the battery voltage wasn't rising Go and check the connectors paying attention to the flat twin bullet one (feed to light) and try again, charge light is back on. So it would seem that the rectifier/regulator has had it