Martin Barrett

Sorry to hear about your shock. For what its worth I think BIGJ went for a Hagon replacement, but I can't remember the reason for replacement I don't think the eye had broken. I think you are the fourth reported shock break, that makes them twice as unreliable as something else (which I can't mention due to possible litagation) I'm going to refresh my boolian algebra just to work out the sets and sub sets Glad that you've been able to source one quickly.

Is the barbed wire to keep them out or you in?

That would be second worse case. Worse case would be the repair catastrophically fails, though I'd imagine that would be very unlikely. I think it's worth a try.

Good job there was a steward there who took action and disqualified him and sent him off "for an early bath"

Nothing in the post for me over the last fortnight. No more post till Monday so that means I should be in the clear as no Notice of Intended Prosecution served within 14 days. I could be in bother if it arrives later and an unreasonable delay inthe post has been caused by the post office. I'll be checking case law if it arrives over the next few days. I must have been going slower than I thought or they weren't going for a long range fix.

Are you sure. I think I'd laid mine down on the wrong side it really points the other way

Has it only just arrived? 4 years

I was waiting for the link to ebay, with you modeling them

There were cries of derision when I mentioned my right angle adapter the other day. But this is exactly the reason. Theres been times when I thought I'd never get any air in. My adapter can be seen in amongst my tyre repair kit.

Replied to your email - sorry for delay hadn't reinstalled email as having PC problems

The other issues with not starting are do do with the interconected clutch/sidestand/neutral circuit. Any of these switches can fail, can be worked through normal trouble shooting to identify which is at fault, or the connector under the front left of the tank is a weekness (wiggle of bars sometimes fixes this one) If it's not starting immediatly after doing the gearbox I would suspect the neutral light - is it working? Read the title Mine refused to start this morning. I last rode it 9 days ago passing Noah on the inside, and has been left out since. It was blowing the 15A fuse. Diagnosed a sticky starter solidoid. Took the cover off and a couple of taps with a hammer and piece of wood, replaced fuse with a 20A (run out of 15s) and it started. Only have to replace the fuse to make sure that was the correct fix and not that I've a fault that pulls 15A but not 20A Try a relay swap, one has a 5 pin but they are all swapable for the starting circuit. If that doesn't cure it post up, exact symptons. The wiggly bar connectors would be my next favorie, or dowse the sidestand switch with penetrating fluid.

too dam right you have, seems to be back on track. All is rosy in my garden again, new tyres tomorrow and hopefully a shortened spacer and the forum works my life is complete.

I was going to reply here but decided not to but wait and see so exited out and the whole thing has gone tits up on trying to get back in. I've found this page through history. Heres to hoping that it gets sorted.

Ok I accept this is a valid reason for not doing the National Rally But you can join in in spirit by riding through the night on Saturday Have a good trip and post a report so we can all share. Sorry I can offer no help on your question.

Been about a week now. Affects search and when you refresh new posts. Only way around it is to open a new browser right mouse click and open new window, when read all posts, close browser and repeat till no new posts. If you need to search I'm afraid theres no simple answer either work through old topics or start a new thread. this has all been posted before But as I've said before if we don't get repeat questions the forum would stagnate and die EDIT - I had ment to include that Jaap is working on it, but he beat me to get a reply in.

On the Stenna Fishguard - Rosslarne crossing onthe way out just left it to the deck hands, can't remember what they did. Couldn't have been worse than me dropping it doing the "s" turn across the deck when my kill button brushed the tank bag On the way back on the fast cat a strap and sponge across the seat. Think I tied it down. My only other experiance is Stena Harwich to Hook, which was the box of greasy ropes.

I had the connector from the regulator to the battery, main charging line corrode and fail, the light flickered briefly and then came on permanantly. This thread some helpful hints also Otherwise I'd suspect the pair of yellow wires being dirty. Currently(sic) my charge light comes on occasionly at tickover circa 600rpm, I'll get around to raising this a smidge.

Thanks Al I can repeat this post from April

My pivot had seized solid and was a real kick to get it to go fully up. Luckily I think I was using my heal against the foot not the wire to kick it back up against the rubberless stop. The whole bolt was turning in its threaded mount and only had the slack with the nylock nut to work with. Lubed it up a couple of days when I did the brake pedal pivot at the same time, that wasn't quite as bad but did prevent the pedal returning.

Don't forget to clean and grease the brake pedal pivot. Mine springs back with gusto now I've done that. I couldn't believe the difference. I was berating that it doesn't have a return spring. But if clean and greased it doesn't need one. Mine obviously had gone off over the last 2 years of all weather abuse and neglect and I hadn't noticed it going off untill it had virtually seized solid

How are you doing on sorting this this years crossing out?

How about a roll call? It seems that we'll be pretty well represented this year. From what I can work out the following forum members: Wambiker Grossohv Guzzirider and Helen on her V11 Duffo and Jim - is that Jim Forham I seem to think he's from same area? Paul Smart Guzzimeister Martin Barrett - hey that's me BelfastGuzzi I know Ferguzzi won't be there as will be sunning himself in his chaps in Nevada on a Harley. I assume BigJ and John O'Sullivan will also be there Anyone else?

Charlie Chaplin style for me. I have worn the rubber cover on the top of the brake master cyclinder and I think my toes have brushed the ground only a couple of times. The same on the left also. Seems to make sence only to have to pivot the foot and the brake or change gear as required, and not have to reposition the foot. It's what I've allways done. The last time I rode with my balls of my feet was when I was 15 and they were in the toeclips of my pedal cycle

As said by BFG, new rear tyre new rear pads. Yesterday I had to take the pedal off and grease the spindle as this is where the friction was preventing its smooth and quick return. I was thinking I'd have to rebuild the master cyclinder, but this was so much easier. I also had to do the same with the side stand pivot bolt , that had seized solid whole bolt was turning. These really are assembled dry at the factory. I use the Ferodo Platinum pads and have big policeman feet and a heavy bike ladden down with my donut and assorted pastries created long range hump. I'd rather replace pads than disks. My last set which I replaced yesterday were actually EBC as sorced from a local shop. There seemed to be more rotor wear, but this might also be due to the sticking lever. It also might improve my recent fuel comsumption drop. I don't know what the cost of a Brembo rotor will be, but it must be nearly 10 years ago it cost £120 plus vat 17% to replace one of my ventalated front disks on my FJ1200 genuine part and at the same time £60 to replace both ventalated discs and pads on my VW Scirocco partern parts.

Will, you should consider it. especially if your going to keep your bike over here. You could do as much or as little as you wanted. Could give added incentives to explore the far reaches. The planning stage is quite intresting and would help fill up any dead time you experiance whilst on the rig. Gary has something similar on his website but covers Wales only. I've been working on my route to Ireland and this is what the computer reckons. 866km and 12 1/2 hours I was thinking going 4-6 -7-5-11-10-9-8 and 12, 100km longer but probably gives me more time in the hills and I could do 8-12 in the dark if need be, so gives me more daylight and if well ahead of the game it would be easier to sneak up to Oswestry. Gary how are you doing?