Martin Barrett

Two G&T's aren't helping this, they were pints I think the failures would be on ones endorsed "not for highway use". I think it would be fit for purpose and depth of thread - m/cycle still om 1mm across 3/4 width and visable tread as opposed to car 1.6mm across central 3/4 width and sod the rest- I allways had difficulty working out how that was an improvement, Hey stupid - the bit thats in contact with the road is the bit thats worn surely you want thread to displace water on that bit. but thats what happens when politians make laws and why the trail riders are about to lose the right to ride on unmade up byways as they are all made footpaths or bridele ways. A motorcycle includes 3 wheelers up to 245kg (off top of head) and no one would bat an eye on your combination. In fact most have't a clue about motorcycles.

Oh is it adjustable? Perhaps I'll fiddle with it one day, perhaps the day after I look at my suspension settings. I just ride it, nearly 18K now. Ohlins would be wasted on me

There was the "dancing hippos" videos of Goldwings doing the Dragon I think they were posted on wild guzzi But here's the links to the videos http://media.putfile.com/Riding-the-Dragon-Part-Two & http://media.putfile.com/Riding-the-Dragon-Part-One

Big J, how long did it last. I think I'm going to need a new bearing next week when I change my tire. The slight audible knock has developed in to definite play. On trip home from work(26 miles round) two days ago as I used the rear brake to slow in to the road there definitely was a graunchy noise. I initially thought rear brake pad, but a quick check showed a couple on mm left. A fuller check today on the shop stand indicated the play. It seems to be the bevel box side that has the movement. One (not sure which side)bearing race had destructed at 6000 miles when the first rear tyre was changed by the dealer, I had the 12000 one done by a little motorcycle workshop in the town. He said the bearings were fine and I'm now at 17,700 and could do with a new rear tyre and it looks like one of the bearings has gone. I'm just debating on how to approach it. Do I take the whole bike to the workshop, Drop of a lose wheel for the tyre change and bearing or do the bearing myself. The last time I did a big bike tyre change myself (1988) I managed to bugger (technical term) the bead, Though having looked at my wheel today I have some spots where the paint has come off the rim but I hadn't notice before but could have been on the last tyre change. I want to keep a good rapport with the workshop for Mot test time because of my RHD headlight, hoping to get away with a £5 to mask up for test and then remove for aesthetic purposes. But last time was £315 for both tyres fitted to the bike I love my bike , but she can be irksome. I suppose not to dissimilar from the wife

That seat profile looks nicer than the standard without the cowl. I supose it keeps the shape and if you do end up wanting to give a lift you don't have the cowl to worry about. Have you had anyone on the back? Whilst possible it looks that it could be strange/uncomfortable with the shape.

In that case it has to be a Moto Guzzi road legal MGS01 but with a V8 engine, rotary valves or would you prefer electic solinoid operated ones, supercharger, hence the relocation of the exhaust opps getting carried away or it could be a Griso with a fly screen and change of exhaust or is a "Krypton 51" damm doesn't feature in the hand book

I found the Blackcurrant sorbet colour reminisant of this But other than that I'm stumped But good to see it RSD (copyright jedione)

It seems to work for him I think for a number of factors that are specific to his bike and not motorcycles in general In cross section it's not going to be much different than a Avon Speedmaster they are the squarest tyres I can remember and I'm sure that the ones on my RS100 and RD200 were pretty square. I know there's difference in the sidewall strength. But he's talking about low profile car tyres that might make up some of the sidewall difference. I don't know what angles of lean he achieves on max lean on a Valkarie, I don't think its quite the same as non mega cruisers to sports. It would be intresting to see photos in cornering action to see how the carcass actual performs, re sidewall flex keeping the flattish foot print on the road. Would repeated cornering ie race track cause it to fail due to heat build up in the sidewall. Or perhaps the side wall doesn't flex that much with the angles of lean. a reread and check of his link he goes in excess of 75mph - pic of 75 indicated on a straight road most of us would be excercising great restraint going that slow

I believe that they are no longer available commercially anywhere. We covered this a little while back and all outlets no longer were advertising them. Your best bet would be ebay or on guzzi sites as they do come up occasionally. Ask about as someone might be in the reverse position and that way one of you could end up with a set. I don't know how badly damaged your set are. The frame should be a simple straighten reweld and paint (unless you've one of the chromed frames) The bag would be a harder proposition. I like my Teknos they are a good compromise between full hard luggage and throwovers. I like the security of the frame. But they aren't exactly spacious I don't use them expanded. You may want to see if the mounting plate is movable to a soft set of throw overs, and would also need to make it semi rigid in the process but might be too much effort. I recommend other alternatives to panniers the Bagster tank bag system and am also considering the Ventura bike pack to supplement my set up

So where talking May thats the shortest month. June and July are also short, April is also quite short. But definatly not December or November as they're the longest. Or have I got the clue wrong? Do I need my Agent Dale Cooper patent pending rock to throw over my shoulder to solve this? Now wheres that cup of coffee and apple pie, Oh I love a good mystery

It's organised by the UK moto Guzzi owners club. If your not a member it's well worth joining if just for the very high standard magazine. http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/bike/default.asp It is the V11 of web sites a bit half arsed and undeveloped ( definatly compared to Jaaps :brown nose smiley:) It's in the south west Map link Next years dates were published in the club magazine, but they've yet to have the planning meeting. So I don't know if they are set in stone. I hope they are as I've booked leave for it. Sorry can't remember the cost for last years, and the forthcoming isn't published yet. but allow £65 ferry , £10 rally fee £5 camp site £lots for beer

Guilty on the first account No offence taken on the second. I have a riding style simular to Charlie Chaplin. So thats not the case.

The theory is push the lines together to take up the tension and then pull the two halves of the fitting apart. I couldn't do this. I used an open ended spanner (10mm I think) slipped between the two halves and used to provide a gentle lever causing them to pop apart. there is also two electrical conector blocks and a breather hose ( up towards the filler) that have to be disconected at various stages in lifting the tank. :!: On reasembly make sure they've snapped together tight :!:

Sorry, I was just a little bit bored. Don't worry I'm not going to change them for a set of Napoleons mirrors or even brandies But I went and found Jaap's picture of the steepest hill in Holland. From this post

Oh no it isn't

He's right. It's part of the British Isles. Though it's not British ( as in part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland) Wales, Scotland and even Cornwall are after( recieved various degrees of) succesion. It's like Canada and North America and the USoA Anyway we're Europeans now

That's what gave it away I'd just finished doing North Wales on the way back from Ireland with KB and as I came up to a round about on brake aplication there was the nasty noise. I did one more controlled application and identified the noise as the rear brake. Stopped and checked it them made the rest of the journey home without touching the rear brake, was 150 miles of dual carraigeway and motorway. Luckily no scoring. Sinterd pads have a high metal content - makes them last longer but wears the rotors down quicker. No to bad on the car where you can get a pair of ventalated discs and pads ( VW Scirocco) in 1998 for £50. as opposed to £130 for a single Yamaha ventalated disc for FJ1200. I'd rather by pads. Endurance racers run hard pads as they change the rotors when they do wheel changes. They same as a Police driver we are taught to brake and double de clutch save wear on the clutch, brake pads being cheaper than clutches. Just checked mine again to night rear is down to 2mm or less pad, seem to last as long as a tyre.

I don't corner as quickly as KB so there's a whole lot of "unnecessary" braking going on

No I don't think so , spins freely. I think its big feet and size of pad, coupled with weight distribution meaning that doesn't lock up, probably could brake a bit harder on the front under normal conditions.

I changed mine to Ferodo also. I'm not sure how long the originals lasted . I did have a set changed at about 6K. As the dealer only charged £13 for parts I assume a rear set only. On the return from the Erin I'd worn my rears right down at 12k, and I changed the fronts at 15K. Almost at 18k best I have another look at my rears. Do I get these wear rates because: I don't brake hard enough with the front The size differential between the pad areas 1:5 Rear wards weight bias of the bike I've got big Policeman's feet

Whilst wizzing around Scotland this summer I was quite taken by a short stretch on the A939 in the Cairngorms. It seemed to go straight up. Looking on the map there is obviously bends on it. But it seemed to be the steepest piece of main road I'd come across.

Did you say cream buns, count me in