Delman

Hi all. like to rig my signals to flash as 4 way hazard lights as well ran across this searching youtube https://youtu.be/b11rD3n-d7s too easy to be true it seems like, you fox with electrical knowledge, is the above a choice? any other way? i haven't looked in to it in depth yet and would apriciate some guidance, thanks Delman

just replaced the rubber boots, left side had a tare in it between the two holding clamps, incidentally that was the side that popped off. with the new boots afresh filter and TB cleaned. sync d and balanced, she is better than new. the boot replacement was pretty painless. Delman

what a difference, she idles at 1200 rpm runs like a sewing machine and pulls like a tractor gone are small hick ups coughs and hesitations just continious unintrupted power now I see why you guys are in love with these things my synch rod was out from me fiddling with everything the simple manometer works the best here is how i did it both air screws backed out one full turn adjust the TPS to 150 mv with synch bar off of RH TB and idle stop screw backed out and chock in natural position attach synch rod to RH TB warm up engine with fan blowing on engine attach manometer start the engine watching the fluid level in manometer so if won't get sucked in to the cylinder at the same time start turning the white knob to get fluid levels stabilized, if you see the fluid is going to get sucked in shut off engine and continue turning the white knob until you get the fluid levels close to equal use the left idle stop screw to set RPM and in conjuction with the white knob fine tune fluid levels rev up to 3000 RPM check manometer levels adjust with white knob I was able to get the manometer levels even all the way around with a few tries my thanks to JB and Photoguzzi for their thoughts Delman

you mean use both left and right throttle stop screws to adjust at idle some say you don't need the RT throttle screw leave it backed out and some say use the RT to adjust at idle, i tend to agree with the later

thanks for the thoughts JB 1. no my manometer consists of two reservoirs that are connected to each other via a tube and each are connected oi the vacuum ports 2. no i don't get even vacuum at idle or higher rpms 3. TB s are clean 4.yes to all 5.i will get that in a bit 6.roger that 7.will do 8.the bike as far as i know is all stock i will try the simple manometer and report back thanks

Hello trying to sync/balance the throttle bodies on my 2002 V11 following the thread here and have encountered a problem that i could use some help. when the bike is attached to my home made manometer at idle 1100rpm then right cylinder has a lot more vacuum than the left, it is to a point that my manometer fluid reservoir (Gatorade bottles) for the left cylinder looses all fluids to the right reservoir and crushes from vacuum. i did a test while the bike was running and attached to manometer, with the in take boot removed from the right cylinder TB. when i cover the intake of the right cylinder TB with my hand and reduce the air in take by more than half the levels of my manometer equlises . i have done the followings to the bike to get to this point. new rubber boots on both TBs new fuel filter/air filter and plugs valves adjusted to .06 and ,08 TPS is set at 150 mv right throttle stop is backed out all the way synch rod is in slight tension and both TB plates are resting at the same position in relation to each other( i physically measured them) air by pass screws are half turn out from close, this was the original setting adjusting the synch rod dos not affect the vacuum level any help would be greatly appriciated thanks

Hi All going to replace the TB intake boots on my 2002 Lemans and throttle balance tuning following the instruction from this forum. to this I got the 4 new rubber boots coming and a breakout harness. got a couple of questions see if you good fox can point me in the right direction how to disconnect the synchronization ball joint from right side TB without breaking it? Any insight on replacing the TB intake boots? Any recommended TB internal cleaning while I got everything apart? thanks

thanks for sharing your experinces just did a 600 miles this weekend nearly all interstate miles Need a couple more experiments like last weekend to figure out what modification would suite me I can tell you one thing for certain that a more comfortable seat than stock would make a big difference any good seat experiences out there?

Good morning fox Looking to improve the rider comfort level of my bike for long distance touring (2002 LeMans) saw the thread on Corbin fitment for my model, wondering if that has been resolved? Also looking at Rich's seats, sounds like he needs the bike at his shop, waiting for a reply from him. Besides the seat which I think would be the best bang for the buck there are the following options: Forward controls (Motra Tech) Raised bars (http://mphcycles.com/handle-bar-risers/ has anyone heard/used of of these guys?) any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated best regards Delman

I gotta hand it to you guys You guys know your stuff after reading the posts when I got home from work went and looked at the boots again and guess what the boot on the side in question has slipped off the TB. i am still going to go ahead with a full service as planned but if you excuse me i got a boot to put on will keep you posted life is good again thanks

thanks fellows for all the advice and encoragment part of my problem is i don't have a good manual or i should say couldn't find a manual this forum is my manual even though i am a decent wrench, never had to deal with electronic fuel delivery system there is always first time for every thing i ll keep you guys posted on the progress

once again the support on this site amazes me thank you all for chiming in to help i failed to mention that i am the second owner of the bike, the original owner rode it for 17000 miles and as far as i can tell did not do anything to the bike it still had the original battery and tires on it, they looked more like slicks than tires. Docc, i got new plugs in there, plug wires i trimmed the ends and re installed them they were running fine before but i should replace them with new, the intake boots show their age but i sprayed a little starting fluid on them while the bike was idling to see if i get a surge in the rpm and it did not. i will check exhaust and the boots again. I am doing the valves this weekend, TPS?(is that throttle positioning system?) and TB can some one point me in the direction of where i can find how to direction on the forum please. JB, as far as I know ECU and the map should be factory stock, plus i am not smart enough to mess with that stuff, previous owner was in the same boat as me. i ll be working on her this weekend, valve adjustment, new fuel filter, check exhaust and intake for leaks, new plug wires plug boots if some one could point me to a how to on valve adjustment and TB balancing and TPS feel free to point them out to me. once again thank you for your advice Delman

Hi all back again with another Guzzie problem on my 2002 v11 Lemans any help would be greatly appreciated problem description: a little difficult to start, but not too bad say four tries as the engine is turning to start you can hear air escaping from the left cylinder almost like the timing is off or the valves aren't closed after she is running every thing is alright slightly rough but not too bad when the throttle is blipped a little hesitation is noticed almost like a hick up after short while say 2 to 3 miles of riding and under 3000 rpm every time the throttle is applied there is a hick up and hesitation and the she catches on as she gets warmer say 5 miles there is an occasional back fire all from the left cylinder work I have done to the bike: new battery fuel vapor canister was removed by me and ports at the intake caped new plugs wire and plug caps cleaned head temp sensor on the right cylinder removed and tested all good this might be coincidental but in the last two weeks its getting warmer around here thats when my problems started planning to take advantage of the up coming long week end and remove the tank adjust the valves and clean all electrical connections and do some maintenance (air and fuel filters) like I said earlier any help would be greatly appriciated this forum has helped me tremendously with my previous issues this is my first Guzzie and I have owned it for half of the year and love it I guess you could say we are still bonding

new spring and arm came in yesterday put them on today topped off with some Redline and took her for a ride decpite 35 deg weather she runs beautifully and shifting silky smooth I was so pleased that I rewarded her with new set of Michelins that she desperatly needed thank you all again for your help Delman

little extra protein never killed any body, but thanks i think i have one of those in the back of the garage

wats a tooth brush?

you know some times we over complicate things as simple as they may be just tried what Baldini suggested and wala the gear box is in neutral and i can roll the bike freely I thought I had to disengage the gear box from the gear its in (sliding the actual gears) thank you for all your input it certinly made it easier to understand the mechanics of it new spring and ratchet arm are in the mail should have them by the weekend will post the results thanks a million Delman

you know some times we over complicate things as simple as they may be just tried what Baldini suggested and wala the gear box is in neutral and i can roll the bike freely I thought I had to disengage the gear box from the gear its in (sliding the actual gears) thank you for all your input it certinly made it easier to understand the mechanics of it new spring and ratchet arm are in the mail should have them by the weekend will post the results thanks a milion

Baldini there are limited movements on the arms free play but i can line them up by equidistance you mean the two on the left and the two on the right should line up with each other correct? but the gear box is still engaged also found an older thread that they did away with the pawl spring and instead used a coil spring to keep tension on the arm how did that worked out thanks for your help

thanks Baldini I will do that

thats what i m thinking but i read here that you should put it in neutral i am gona fiddle with it a little if not certin she is going back together in third now just gota wait for the postman cheers

All right kids today got the cover off and right off the bat a piece broken PAW spring fell out its busted half way around the loop honestly i was surprised at the gage of the wire, its no thicker than a paper clip i think that is a big part of the problem tomorrow i will take the selectors off to see if i have the correct size boss if not thinking about ordering the full replacement kit + an extra spring my next hurdle is to figure out how to get the transmision in to neutral since it is still stuck in third any pointers would be greatly appriciated cheers

Yep

will do thanks