Scud

Congratulations. My experience is that as soon as my wife got addicted to an evening TV show, I got to use that time productively (aka sit in the garage all night). Wiring? I got nuthin'

Hey Stew - I think you were clear, but maybe we only know how to help with the front part, which IMO is the main problem (and which you have already fixed). I don't shy away from rain and dirty roads (although we don't much rain here). When I ride in those conditions, I find the rear fender adequate, even after I chopped off the bit below the license plate.

With the right pdf software, you could delete all the non-english pages and save the smaller file. However, the pictures are not duplicated along with the translations, so sometimes you need an Italian language page to see a picture that is referred to from an English language page. When I printed a manual for myself, I kept track of what pages had either English or pictures. Here's a link: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19504&hl=

That's exactly how I felt about my Scura with the same original aluminum flywheel. The worry about the potential breakup made me not want to ride it.

Amending my earlier post... Alexander Hamilton (on US $10 note) was never president either. And according to the NY Times, we'll see Harriet Tubman, an African-American female, on the US $20 note - but not for a while yet. http://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/21/us/women-currency-treasury-harriet-tubman.html?_r=0

The concern is not the clutch hub (aka transmission input gear), which the rod passes through. The concern is the size and shape of the contact point on the pressure plate - and how it mates with the forward end of the clutch push-rod. Craig called it the receiver and posted pics of the two - (I quoted the post with the pics, but the pictures don't come along) New rods are cheap - and used ones even cheaper. So getting your original one machined is low-risk - you can always replace it. FWIW - It seems safer to machine the rod. I think there may be a risk of weakening the "receiver" if you drill into it.

US pennies are mostly zinc. You could grind 'em up, add some chromate and make yourself some poisonous primer. Pennies and $1.00 bills are both wasteful items and it's time to move on. The penny could be easily eliminated and the paper 1-dollar replaced with a coin - ideally one that does not cost $1.15 to produce. The last two 1-dollar coin attempts have failed to get wide circulation: Susan B. Anthony (US women's rights activist), and Sacagawea (native American female scout that guided Lewis and Clark, two white men, through western territory). In the US, we seem to prefer "dead presidents" on our money. Except for the $100 bill which features Benjamin Franklin, who was never president. From the song: Well, I ain't broke, but I'm badly bent Everybody love them dead presidents

Well, I take some comfort knowing that I'm not alone in trying to solve this puzzle. Maybe I should have made this a new topic. I'm going to return those cheap sockets to Lowe's and re-spend that money on a proper, extra-deep socket. By the time I'm done, I'll have a nice set of special tools available for loan to members as needed. Andy York has asked me to keep his spare transmission hub wrench here in CA for that purpose (balance of transmission-tools headed back to him now). West-coast loaner kit to include: Clutch alignment tool, starter ring locking tool, clutch hub wrench and special socket, and soon, a deep impact socket for the current challenge. Back to psychology... on one hand, we have self-restraint to stop us from getting into problematic situations, and on the other we have perseverance to get us out. Now it's me vs. machine and I will not be beaten by a lump of metal. I'm going to hear the cool noise from the chain tensioner that Chuck promised.

Thanks for updating. I hope you get it sorted out.

I got motivated and zipped out to Lowe's to buy a set of those plumber sockets. The size was not exactly right, but I tried anyway - and just ended up deforming the tool without moving the nut. I guess this is going to take a few trips to tool stores. Sort of surprised that Moto Guzzi missed the opportunity to make this a "special tool." At least I now have tools to remove tub and shower valves - a job I have always paid someone else to do. edit: I found a 32mm socket with over 100mm of clearance. Part number GP 2032XMD http://www.gpsocket.com/products/product.phtml/2032XMD/ Hopefully that will be here when I get home from my next trip.

That's called "restraint" now. Congratulations on your maturity and judgment. I can't find a torque spec for that nut, but it's quite thin, so it can't be designed to take much - and it's held in place by the collar - then the nut on the alternator squeezes it all together with 80Nm.

Restraint - the thing you give yourself credit for when you don't do something (not putting in 30-amp fuse holder) and the thing you realize you don't have enough when it's too late (and you find yourself drilling out screw heads to remove your injectors). On the subject of restraint, I had decided to forgo installing the upgraded cam-chain tensioner (credit for restraint) - but then I saw how the crinkle paint was coming off inside the engine case behind the timing chain (restraint overcome by desire to remove contaminants from oil). But to be totally honest, Chuck said the new tensioner would make a cool noise, and I have very little restraint when it comes to cool mechanical noises. And now I'm stuck again... I got the woodruff key out and removed the sliding collar from the middle shaft. But the 32mm retaining nut on the middle gear... the shop manual just says "remove." With what sort of tool? Am I missing something obvious here, or do I have to get a 32mm socket that is about 90mm deep - one that will slide all the way over the end of the crank? I've never seen a socket that deep.

You could close some of the gaps in the swingarm with an old inner tube and some zip ties. Once you like how it works, you can use the inner tube as a template for your plastic. Another way is to rivet the innertube inside the top of the hugger fender - you could make something like a mudflap in there. Dirt bikes have things like that to protect the shock, linkage, and other sensitive parts. Maybe go look at a dirt bike for inspiration.

I was prepared to install a Maxi-fuse holder, but I just don't want to break into anything else right now. I was nervous that I would find signs of overheating, so that was one "bright spot" today. What fun would it be if we all had exactly the same problems? On the throttle-bodies: The injectors came out of my parts bike easily - so I thought they would also come easily out of the Scura (wrong). I think the lower rail is "permanently" loc-tited to the bodies (otherwise it would already be powdercoated).

Some steps forward and some steps back today. Throttle bodies got a deep clean, but the injectors were problematic. Somebody (perhaps the mythical Luigi) got a little overzealous with the loctite and I had to drill out the screws to remove the injectors - then use heat and vice-grips to remove the headless studs.So glad I discovered this challenge now - it would be a royal PITA if the engine was in. Marty told me about this Dow Corning DC-4 electrical insulating compound - all the benefits of vaseline, but tolerates high temperatures and won't melt away. So I've been applying this to connections - did all the relays and fuses today. My 30-amp, stock fuse looks perfect (lucky me). Then I noticed that the marks on my driveshaft were misaligned (by one tooth) - so I got friendly with the rear wheel again... and while I was in there, the shock picked today to start leaking... stream of shock oil running down the spine. So, the shock is out and getting a rebuild while I go out of town again next week. Weird that it just started today. But of all the possible times, right now is about as convenient as a shock leak could ever get. It's never been serviced since new. I was thinking about having it done preemptively, but the dealer said "if it's not leaking, leave it alone." Two weeks after that conversation... it starts leaking. I'm planning to have the forks rebuilt, may as well have the damper serviced while I'm at it so I can forget it about for a while.

Thanks. Footpegs feel about the same as with the original paint.

Tranny is back in, along with fresh powdercoat on: lower subframe, driveshaft collar, rider pegs and brackets, seat lock housing, Lucky-Phil shift extender, and upper throttle body brace. Engine is up next...

If you're going to use stripper, it will probably migrate to the adhesive or the chrome on that little eagle. So I'd suggest removing it, which is easy to do. Heat the inside of the cover behind the badge and pry it off gently. I reattached mine with 3M double-sided adhesive foam tape - just cut it a little smaller than the eagle. It's still holding.

Docc - maybe you need to get yourself a WWII-style Bomber Jacket. Have you been a good boy? I've known a few pilots and been on some small-plane trips. Even though there were interesting parts, and I enjoy the arial view, there are long periods of boring, straight, flight (like riding the Interstate on a motorcycle). But there seems to be lot in common between the two activities - safety-first mindset, traveling light, planning your route (don't run out of fuel), pre-flight/ride inspection, leaning into turns, more consideration of the weather than other forms of travel, etc. Flying and motorcycling are both immersive experiences - requiring a total focus on the task and hyper-awareness of your surroundings.

Well, let's not forget about the PBR and tri-tip. Especially since the PBR is already open and the grill is already clean. My Scura tranny was leaking - and it appears to have been between the rear cases. In my case, I found some loose fasteners - maybe you can get in there and snug up everything you can reach. The bummer on mine was that the loose fasteners were under the rear cover (which is a time-intensive area to access).

Well... I don't want to take too much credit here. I just found a K75s with 75,000 miles (about 25% of it's useful life) for $500 recently and it had an Ohlins shock, which will be migrating to my keeper K75s. If his parents are OK with it, and if he's willing to defer his racer-bike wish, I would ask him to buy the parts and help me fix it up. I think it's kind of a long-shot because the parents are so against the sport-bike. Here's how it would go: Hey kid - you want a motorcycle? OK, let's replace that cracked bell housing together next weekend. While we're at it we can figure out where that oil leak is coming from... and bring some new tires... and here's some brake fluid... flush it through... and you don't want to ride something with cracks in the fuel lines do you?

OEM Part Name: Fuel Filter - with external pump and filter on frame, 2002 and earlier Moto Guzzi Part Number: 30106000 Replacement Part Brand or Source: Wix (and probably several other brands) Part number: 33310 Fits Isuzu Trooper, all years Differences from OEM: Shorter and smaller diameter Other Comments: The OEM filter rubs on the tank, this smaller filter should not rub on the tank. This is a good time to replace the fuel lines. You need about 6 feet of 5/16 (8mm) high pressure line for fuel injection. Cut the line from pump to filter a bit longer - to reach the shorter Wix filter. While you're at it, install solid clamps (not the worm-gear kind that cut into the fuel line). I found this filter referred to by others on the forum, some said they wrapped it in electrical tape to increase the diameter and hold it snugly in the two clamps. However, I found that the rubber sheet that insulates the shock reservoir (part #00823915045) is a perfect fit as a second layer on top of the original sheet of rubber.

I say: it's the cheap and sticky kind. No reason to buy new vibration dampers. The Marketing Department Says: Seal-All is the adhesive mechanics and hobbyists trust for all their automotive and garage repairs. It adheres with superior strength to most substrates and resists gasoline, oil, paint thinner and most solvents. • Fast dry time – set in 2-3 minutes • E-Z flow formula • Gas & oil resistant • Waterproof – bond remains secure even when exposed to water • Abrasion resistant • Temperature resistant – remains tough even in extreme temperatures

Similar to Chuck, but with fewer tools - I just sanded the contact surfaces, used Seal-All as adhesive and let them dry with light pressure from a C-clamp. My sidestand bumper has been holding for 2 years after that treatment.

Yes he does. V11LeMans.uncle Have you ever listened to Red Barchetta by Rush - and payed attention to the lyrics? It's about a good uncle who leaves a machine for his nephew. My nephew has gotten pretty good on his Husqvarna TE250 (street legal dirt bike). Now he really wants a too-fast sport bike, which his parents will not allow. I am hoping his parents will let him take my K75s after I get it sorted out. You can ride any motorcycle if you have control of yourself and the machine. The former can sometimes be the more difficult challenge - which is why a bike with less power and weight makes a good learner.