Scud

Just a matter of time... because the stripper works in 15 minutes. I'm inclined to eradicate the crinkle finish - engine, transmission, driveshaft collars, final drive, and reaction rod. @Paul - I can weigh them both later. edit: posted weights in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19510&page=4&do=findComment&comment=214116

OEM Part Name: Hydraulic Bleeders - for clutch slave and brake calipers Moto Guzzi Part Number: Replacement Part Brand or Source: SpeedBleeder Part number or other identifier: Clutch and Rear Brake - SB1010S M10x1.0 Front Brake Calipers - SB8125 M8x1.25 Differences from OEM (if any): these are one-way valves that make bleeding very speedy (a well-named product). The OEM bleeder for the clutch looks a little different than one for the rear brake, but the same replacement part fits both applications. Thanks to Craig for doing the research on these. I've had them for a while, but just installed all 4 today. OEM clutch bleeder (left) has flat bottom. SpeedBleeder (right) has conical bottom.

...but maybe I spoke too soon. I was so pre-occupied with the engine oil leaks that I didn't notice that the transmission also has an oil leak. I think (hope) it's from the output cover and not something deeper. One swingarm bearing is bad (but I've got a freshly powdercoated one with new bearings ready to take over). She's damn near down to the spine and wiring harness at this point. And the little rubber vibration dampers? They just spin right apart, don't they?

Where? I don't see a Rosso Corsa. Pictures - or it didn't happen. My Guzzi buys were local. But I flew San Diego to San Jose for business and rode a brick home. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19273&hl=brick

Thanks, it's a bit of an obsession... I'm still using the original grips. They are quite thin and there is no bump in the bars, so I'm not sure what you've got now. But grips are pretty standard and you should be able to use almost any grips you like. For the manual, check the fileshare section on this website. Lots of other goodies there too, including the Ohlins manuals. I like having a hard copy on the table while I'm working, so I recently printed the whole thing. I kept track of what pages had English or pictures. This thread has all those page numbers: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19504&hl=

Maybe you could find an internal fuel pump, re-route your fuel lines, and remove the pump and filter from the frame. If not, you'll need to drill into the tank for a petcock and a pressure regulator. When you have them side by side, you'll know what to do. The fuel doors are the same - so no worries there.

I’ve had the Scura about 2 years now and done about 12,000 miles with her. But I haven’t been riding it much lately because I’ve been scared that the exploding flywheel countdown might be in the last few clicks. After sitting unused for 12 years with previous owner, I converted it from living room art to kinesthetic art. I thought I might have real problems with seals and gaskets, but I’ve only experienced the stuff that’s pretty common to the V11 series: Cracked breather hose Timing chest gasket leak Cam position sensor o-ring leak Cracked throttle body boots Broken speedometer cable 2002 models problems: The nasty bubbling engine paint. The engine cases are the worst, but I can see it starting to spread to the transmission. I’ve started stripping the paint, and now I'm thinking about stripping the tranny too – and going with a smooth (not textured) satin black finish. The shift springs have held up - but I'm going to do pre-emptive replacement. And the unique “Scura Problems” Forks – The Scura was undersprung for most (but was OK for me) – and some said I should replace the fork seals immediately due to sitting for so long. Well, 12,000 miles later, the 14-year old fork seals are still holding, but I can see just a hint of oil on the forks – and it’s time for an oil change anyway. So may as well do seals now – and maybe new springs. And the big Scura Scare-a? The dread aluminium flywheel. It’s out and there is no sign of distress - probably could have gone a while longer. But the (slightly heavier) RAM fits the Scura’s transmission input gear perfectly and the steel flywheel should go the distance. So there's what I'll be working on for a while - along with fluids and filters and adjustments and a good cleaning and various and sundry add-ons...

Happy birthday indeed. I hope you and the Sport are out enjoying it.

For reals? You can actually tell the difference when riding? I have read a few positive things about this tensioner on this forum (and that's why I bought it). But pulling bolts out of the main seal cover makes me nervous (just new territory for me). The picture is a HUGE help. I have a couple rubber-tipped clamps that should serve the purpose. I'm feeling a little chicken too. More coaching needed... Can the sprockets only go back on one way - or is there a chance that I could mess up the timing if I do it wrong? Special tools needed? For example, do I need gear pullers? I don't have any pullers, but always willing to consider buying new tools.

I'm planning to use Permatex blue gasket dressing, which I think is the equivalent of the Hylomar. I got a beefier gasket too. Here's a link to the chain tensioner on MG Cycle's site: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_126&products_id=347

I've got mine off - the paper gasket was torn and is obvious source of a leak - along with a crusty O-ring on the cam position sensor. I thought I might replace the tensioner while I was in there and bought this part from MG Cycle. But this doesn't look right - I mean I can't see how it would even fit. The Scura's engine has only 12,000 miles and runs well - so I'm OK with the "if ain't broke don't fix it" approach. But I'm curious if anyone has used this tensioner - and if it would be worth the effort to install now that I'm this far into it for the seal (and clutch... and...)

This thread shows how to add the longer bolt and safety pin to a 2002 an earlier brake caliper carrier: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19655&do=findComment&comment=214039

Thanks guys. I searched and found a recent thread where somebody had this problem (and how I got the idea to do this little upgrade). It includes a picture midway through the thread of what can happen if the bolts goes AWOL. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19107

I keep thinking I should take a course like that - and do a track day. There's always room to improve. Thanks for the report. The instructors were thinking: "Finally, somebody shows up on a proper motorbike."

Welcome! Great looking bike. Some will say "scuzzy", others will say "scootsie" -- keep 'em guessing.

I fault the cheap Harbor Freight tool for the bend, and do not credit my herculean strength. I froze the swingarm bearings (to shrink them) and set the swingarm in the sun to heat it up a bit (probably not hot enough to expand it, but that was my theory). I also used some very fine sandpaper to smooth out the bores where the bearings needed to go - I could feel a few small rough spots, which I assume were due to friction on removal and/or sandblasting. Then I used one of the old bearings as a bearing-driver to hammer the bearings in. You have to keep looking to make sure the bearings are going in straight - and adjust the hammer-strikes to level them out if they start to tilt. And have a soft surface underneath - like a block of wood covered with a towel - so you don't mess up your fresh powdercoat. Just as I got the first bearing started, a neighbor dropped by, wanted to chat. I said - frozen bearing, hot swingarm, please wait. Once that bearing starts to heat up, it will expand - so drive it in briskly.

I hope it involved highway 243.

Rue rings are cool - never saw those before. I just used the OEM clip (it was less than $1.00 and readily available). As for the need for this, I think it's sort of a belts-and-braces approach. It seems that if you're confident that you will tighten the bolt correctly, then you don't need to do this. For me, a little extra security is just peace of mind and cheap insurance (aka belts and braces).

The rear brake caliper and carrier can spin around the axle if the anchor-screw loosens and falls out. I've seen a few posts about this - and the unpleasant collateral damage it causes. Starting with 2003 models, Moto Guzzi supplied a different anchor-screw that goes all the way through the caliper carrier and uses a clip for extra security. Here's how to do this easy, preventative upgrade. What you need: Your favorite hammer A center-punch. Ideally it should fit the unthreaded portion of the hole in the swingarm. "Special Screw" MG part number 01638630 "Security Pin" MG part number 02466900 Drill. Make the hole a little bigger than the pin - it doesn't need to fit snugly. While I happened to have everything on the bench, this could easily be done with the swingarm still on the bike. Step 1 - get your stuff together Step 2 - mark the location for the hole Step 3 - Done

Guzzimoto plugged one of the holes. Here's some discussion of it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17740&hl=%2Bmarzocchi+%2Bplug+%2Bhole&do=findComment&comment=188893 I keep thinking that I will try to do this too - but if you do, please post pictures so I can copy.

Hoarder. Takes one to know one.

I have not had this problem yet on my Guzzis, but that's sounds like what I do on my BMW K75s - works in seconds. You just have to study how the lines go - tilt the bars (or the whole bike) till there is no peak in the lines where air can get trapped (or detach it if needed like Phil says). It's much easier to get air to bubble up back into the master than to force it down through the calipers. When no more air returns to the reservoir, you're done. That said - speed bleeders are also good at pushing air out. You can just keep squeezing the lever without tightening and loosening the nipple - you keep the fluid moving faster than the bubbles can rise.

Take a look at the spring-clamp and nut that the rear tank bolt goes into. Have you slid it all the way back? You could loosen your subframe and see if there is any play in it - if so, you might be able to nudge it back a couple millimeters - which will move the nut for the tank back. You might also be able to grind a little material out of the frame slot that the bolt passes through to allow the nut to sit further back. Or you could invite 5 guys over to do a compression fitting.

I would think that the replacement True Roller bearing would be smoother and probably less prone to wear? I think the shift action was smoother with the bearing. But I also installed a new spring on that arm at the same time, which could have helped. Oh - and I have road-tested it, but just a short distance.

Thanks for the encouraging comments. Re roller bearing: Yes, it seems that it would be an upgrade over the solid disc (mine was clearly worn); shifting does seem smoother while on the bench. The durability test has just commenced. I think this thread might work best if conversation is kept to a minimum and if lots of us post about proven compatible parts - things we have actually done (no speculation). If we want to discuss a part, we could always start a new thread and link to it from here. I suppose we could also link to existing threads where a compatible part is well documented (that's how I found the swingarm bearings - so I went back and edited my post to put the link in).