Scud

Don't let people scare you off. From what I can see, most Guzzis will "soldier on" for a very long time. Especially the 2V big blocks. Will you have to work on it more than a Honda? Probably. Will you enjoy working on it more than a Honda? Probably. Will it die in the middle of the desert? I doubt it. You've come to forum that's pretty focused on the V11 Sport and LeMans series by Moto Guzzi. The V11 LeMans fairing is between the 1200 Sport and Norge touring fairings. It provides ample protection at the speeds you mentioned. You could probably pick up a 2003 or 2004 LeMans for less than the Sport - and there are some special editions with Ohlins suspension. These later years seem to be the best-sorted from the factory. Instead of one of those new-fangled CARC bikes, can we interest you in a V11? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691

As Stew implies, the first place to look is at the linkage. Make sure it is totally loose and free - the lever should have almost no friction. If you put the little screw and nut on the front of the linkage backwards, it will rub against the starter and make it feel like the shifter is jammed or that it is not returning the center (ready for next shift) position after shifting. If the clutch is dragging a little when you push the bike with the clutch lever in, take a look at the screw on the lever - the one that pushes into the master cylinder. If you turn that in a little, you might force more fluid into the slave - just enough to get it to release the rest of the way. If the linkage is all clear, then take another look inside the pre-selector, using this thread as a guide: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547 If you have the pre-selector off now, it's worth going through and cleaning up the contact surfaces as described in that thread. You'll notice an improvement in shifting action while it's on the bench.

Looking good - and it looks like some very nice roads up there too. May she give you many more perfect days like that.

...and the potatoes. And some gravy... and cornbread... don't forget the grilled zucchini.

By unearthed issues - do you mean that adding the part has caused or amplified an existing problem? Since upshifts are better, does this mean you are having trouble with downshifts? If so that sounds about like the current state of my LeMans. Now awaiting some parts and will get into the shifter once more. I think I'll install the extender first, just in the name of scientific experimentation and isolating variables.

2. When you search, notice the little grey box inside the search box. If it says "this topic" your search is limited to the thread you're in. If it says "forums" you will search everything. You can click that box to change the breadth of your search. When my search yields nothing - it's usually because I was only searching the active topic, not the whole forum. 3. I paste some links into a Word document to save them for future reference. You can also click the "Follow this topic" button - then you can display a list of "topics I follow." You can also choose to be notified when posts are added to topics you follow. 4. You're welcome.

Mine's at the powdercoater (flat black) - along with a swingarm, lower subframe, and bunch of stuff for my K75s. Gotta cut down on that visual clutter... I've got my LeMans shifting pretty well, but I am search of perfection. Further updates as events warrant.

+1 on the importance of setting suspension sag. A lesson I learned on this forum - but wish I had learned many years ago. If you can't adjust sag within specs, then you will benefit from new springs.

Agreed - I recently suspected my main seal was leaking, but it miraculously stopped leaking when I put the clamp on the breather hose. If there is even a small crack in your breather hose, oil will work its way into the clutch housing area - and out the tiny weephole between engine and transmission cases. Glad the tranny arrived safely. Remember - it's from a 2002, which is the year that some had issues with Pawl boss/spring. Since it's out, it's probably a good idea to take of the shift pre-selector, replace the springs, and do the shift-improvement polishing.

...and my diesel truck is a dinosaur (in both size and age) 7.3L V8 Ford - so I'm not really up on the current technology. I've seen a few other diesel motorcycle projects, so it can be done. I imagine it would produce torque that would put even the biggest Harley motors to shame.

Perhaps the rumored lighter Stelvio - maybe a V9 motor... Something to enter the Dakar Rally. Dakar finishers get a lot of respect - not just winners. Having recently got a diesel truck I've been thinking about some of the challenges that a diesel motorcycle would present. High compression means huge battery and starter motor. My truck has 2 batteries - I think that's also because the glow plugs take a huge electrical load. My truck takes 4 gallons (not 4 quarts) of oil. That's 3-4 times the amount of oil for a similar size gas engine. Despite all that, a diesel Stelvio would be a bold statement. I think it would prove popular with people who pull trailers behind motorcycles. Why not just go BIG: Diesel motorcycle trailer-pull competitions on the moon.

I just ordered a roller from Harpers. They didn't have it in stock; they show it as available, but "low inventory" - and not sure how long it will take to get one. Craig, if you do find a compatible part, please advise.

Now that's a compression fitting.

Looks like a blast. Great pics - keep 'em coming.

LeMans got an O-ring on the cam position sensor... and a bath. But the Scura got naked. I removed the flyscreen because she needs the mounting hardware powdercoated. Paint was coming off the little support arms... and that just won't do. She also got a new pair of Napoleon mirrors. The prior pair had some lane-splitting scars (and an oops on the RH). The scarred mirrors found a new home on the K75s, which got to shed the nasty lollipop mirrors. And happy news... it appears that my speedometer works. I assumed that it broke earlier this summer and I just assumed it was the speedo - but it was the cable. When I turn the input by hand I can see the needle jump. So I guess I won't be buying Speedhuts just yet (I nearly did).

Reviving thread after a couple years dormancy... I was almost discouraged from even trying to remove the swingarm bearings by reading this thread - and I'm posting to say it can be done. I was able to get the bearings out with heat on the swingarm (not directly to bearing) and a slide hammer that I bought today at Harbor Freight. There was absolutely no movement without heat. After I applied heat they came out with about 20 impacts. I did bend the slide hammer shaft - so I'm taking it back tomorrow for a refund. I will buy a higher quality tool next time I need one. I'm going to take the swingarm in for powdercoating.

My shifting is much improved, but I still have occasional difficulty getting into third gear - it is most common when I want to drop from 4th to third to accelerate. It's pretty smooth on engine-braking downshifts, and I missed a 2 to 3 upshift (at the time, I was just seeing how little effort I could apply and still get it to shift). I think the extension on the external shift-linkage arm will amplify the effort. Craig - good explanation of how the 2 springs work together/against. When I first noticed the difference in effort I had a new pawl spring, but a tired selector spring (so perhaps the new one overpowered the weak one). With two new springs, the difference was much less. This now makes me think I should replace the third spring (on the roller arm), and that it's probably a good idea for anyone doing this job to just plan to replace all three springs at the same time. I also noticed that my roller had some wear (new roller is $5.00) - but I did not inspect the surfaces that it rolls against. I am encouraged by this - and will get into it one more time (when I get a new spring and roller). Will polish some more contact surfaces then.

The new lever spring is wider, and much stronger than the one that was in there. All my filing and smoothing and shaping almost worked with the weak spring, but after replacement, it shifts perfectly on the bench - ups and downs - quick and crisp returns. My ThreeBond 1194 didn't show up yet. I have some 1211, I suppose I can use that today - for filling and riding tomorrow? And here's a close-up photo of how the pawl spring fits - so MartyNZ can engineer a better one.

Did the oil line seat fully before you tightened the nut? I suppose it's possible that the little O-rings are damaged, but I think they're pretty tough.

How many miles can you get out of a rear tire on a Moto Guzzi V11? I believe it's the same line of questioning as in this video. Let's find out when we ask Docc, the wise owl:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/mcy/5767484371.html Here's a low-mile champagne LeMans with a $4,750 ask price.

Haha. I feel your pain - having experienced some of that recently with the Roper Plate shipments. Thanks for the hard work. I await payment instructions (total with shipping and fondling).

But officer, I just improved my shifting and needed to run through all the gears. 5th and 6th are illegal in every state...

Good to know - I think I'll try the Michelin PR4s on the LeMans when it's time - or maybe pair the rear with a softer, grippier Michelin front.