Scud

Thanks Docc. I just placed an order for a 180 GT rear and a 120 ST front. I've run two GT 170s on the rear (about 5,000 miles each). I read a review, some guy claimed 9,000 miles on a GT on a ZX-14 Kawi. To that I say either "no freakin' way." - or - "the throttle is on the right." Rear: I'll try the OEM size rear along with the slightly softer front. I suppose the 180 will last a bit longer than the 170 (5.9% more tread). Front: I really just want to watch the Angel on the ST turn into a devil as the tread wears... I'll scrub those nasty little halos off in no time. No tax, and free shipping on Amazon - and 5% back with the Amazon Store card. Net $250 for a set of tires. Those guys are dominating e-commerce... and now they're opening "brick-and-mortar" bookstores. I like new tires.

So you see no significant difference in tread life between Angel ST and GT? Looking at Pirelli's website, they still list Angel ST and Angel GT as current tires. About the GT, they say "longer distances" and "the new reference for mileage." That would imply the STs wear faster (and would therefore be stickier). Could you notice any handling difference between the ST and GT?

But Docc, that cycle conveniently gives you the winter to change tires, fettle brake calipers, etc..... and start your next season off fresh. Do you also find that there is some life left in the front when the back is worn? I'm running mismatched brands on my LeMans right now (Michelin PR2 rear and Angel GT front) and it's fine. Mismatch of type within the Pirelli Angel family seems like it would be no big deal. I do like the idea of a stickier front and - just maybe - wearing out both tires at the same time.

Tire talk time. I'm looking at tires for the Scura. I generally replace them as a set, even though there is typically a bit more life left in the front when the rear is done. Which got me into my dangerous habit of thinking... Assumptions: GTs are generally longer wearing than STs - and therefore STs are a bit higher performance. I was thinking of using Pirelli Angel GT on the rear and Pirelli Angel ST on the front. Then maybe I'd have better performance, wear out both tires at about the same rate - and the ST is $30 less than the same size GT. Good idea? Bad idea? Experience?

Loaner used TPS on the way for testing porpoises. Keep it as long as you need to in order to isolate your problem.

Those look cool. Good job taking a picture, since we all hope to never see them again after assembly.

Thanks. I am getting really good at taking this apart, and I understand how the shift mechanism works now (which I never did before). Supplies: I've got some engineer's blue and some Three-bond 1194 on order (also some more Redline Heavy Gear Oil). Selector arm straightness: I checked with a steel straightedge and I can certainly see some variance - which I suppose is from how the part was stamped. How did you straighten this part? I tried bending it by hand with it clamped in the vice, but I don't think I did much. Selector arm friction surfaces: Here's how I smoothed out the parts that slide over the pins. I used a broad hand file, then 220-grit sandpaper on a block. I got the two angled edges really smooth, but let a few marks inside the hook. The shiny area at the pivot was significantly worn (see pic in previous post), I could feel a bump-up to the unworn surface. I can slide a .010" feeler gauge between the arm and the gear with the pins (left gear in photo below) - but there is friction between the darker, RH gear and the arm. When I put in my smallest gauge (.0015") it's still tight (as pictured below). It lifts the gear a little when I force the gauge in. I'm tempted to grind that whole area of the arm to make it thinner - but I will wait for the spring first. Lever Spring: I think I will order one of these tomorrow. When the selector is in first and I move the lever as though I am downshifting I need to use a lot force to move the lever (the external one that the linkage connects to). But when it's in 6th and I move it as though I am upshifting (looking for the elusive 7th gear) I can move that linkage lever easily with my littlest finger - there is not much resistance from the spring, and it does not pull the arm back every time. This lever also had some wear and burrs - I cleaned it up. Current Situation: Downshifts are flawless. The arm returns correctly every time - didn't stick even once. Upshifts have some problems, but not every time. The lever does not fully return.

I think I have a used one that you can try - to see if that fixes the problem. PM sent.

Novice transmission worker in need of assistance... Parts diagram at Harpers for reference below: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-cat-1100-2003-2004/gear-box-selector-en-v11-cat-1100-2003-2004.html Here are some images of the wear on my LeMans. You can see where the arm rubs on the gear - because it does not ride in the center of the channel (between the teeth and the semi-circular notches). I also noticed that selector spring (#25 on parts diagram) was bent out of shape (compared to a new one) - so it was probably on the way to failure. I've filed and polished all the friction-surfaces and installed the selector new spring. Some of the notchiness/resistance is gone and I can get it to flow correctly through all gears, up and down. However, it occasionally does not return all the way from upshifts (this happens maybe 1 out of every 10 shifts - enough to be annoying if that continues when on the bike. I suspect three possible causes: 1: The lever still rubs on the gear. The part is very close to being straight, but it still rubs at the pivot as well as the part that slides over the pins. I'd have to put a noticeable curve in it to get it to ride in the center of the gear's channel. 2: I wonder if the lever spring (#28 in diagram above) is weak and should be replaced. 3: The eccentric adjuster - I have not touched this yet, because I can run through all the gears correctly sometimes - I don't think moving this will help the arm return after upshifts. The shop manual is not much help here... it says things like "Check that the hook works correctly." And finally, what's a good sealant for this? It appears to have been put together with black silicone - and the shop manual only says "3M sealant."

Well, there goes the "never dropped" line from your ad if you ever decide to sell it. The low speed drop is humiliating (I'm in the "club"). But we pick up, inspect, learn the lesson, and move on... There's a spot on one of my favorite roads where I dropped a BMW R100CS with my girlfriend (now wife of 20 years). I look at it every time I pass and remind myself not to pull onto soft shoulders with front brake applied.

Thanks for coming out of retirement for this. They look like little soldiers - all dressed up in olive-drab, ready to be deployed to the shift-improvement wars. Mine will probably visit the powder-coater, along with some other bits for entertainment value.

Bummer indeed. I suppose you can only console yourself that the fan didn't fall on the front and damage the tanks or fairings. Or... you can think about worse things, such as the poor guy whose garage burned down with the bike in it. But the new, and unobtainable Ti cans... . I recall seeing a thread where someone rolled a dent out of the Ti cans (after taking the Ti skin off, I think they used a big pipe from the inside.) Still rolling the proverbial dice with the OEM clutch in the Scura - but yesterday was probably the last (or penultimate) roll. I'm going to do a lot of other stuff while I change the clutch... paint engine, check/improve transmission pre-selector, fork rebuild, all fluids, tires, etc. Gonna get her set up for a long spell of riding with no additional service needed. Maybe today I will conquer the LeMans' transmission. I've been commuting on it for the last few weeks and found that I can shift it well with great attention (and if I lapse then I miss a downshift). Yesterday's 300 miles of effortless shifting on the Scura provided the motivation to give requisite attention to the LeMans. I know Docc likes the elevation graphics from my GPS software... so here's yesterday. I didn't take any photos, but I rode right by the overlooks on Highways 243 and 330 where I've seen some other photos recently (at least from JB and Rox). I hit an invisible rock at the start of the climb that I highlighted. It provided me an unpleasant direction change and subsequent correction-wobble, but the steering damper did it's job and we straightened right up.

Today, I took the Scura on a proper loop (took the long way to a family barbecue in Orange County) with over 24,000 feet of elevation changes* - lots of ups and downs from sea-level to over 8,000 feet on the way to Big Bear. There is nothing like cranking up a loooong grade with the V11 howling. Tires are almost done, so now I'm thinking about another set of Angels or if I want to try the Michelin PR4s. *according to my trusty GPS track.

The long-awaited milestone has arrived... and she starts her journey toward 200,000. Very nice moment to make the magic mileage - better then commuting.

...and what does this mean? Did the V11 break down? Did somebody buy a Quota? Explain....

Just pulled the gear selector box off the LeMans. The downshifts have been getting worse the last few days. No metal in oil, it all looks like gears and other mysterious stuff in there... this is my first time inside a transmission. Time to study the shift improvement threads.

Thanks for throwing some classical into the mix. I played piano for many years and played alto and baritone saxophone in high school concert and jazz bands. I often play classical music while working or driving early in the morning. Many an O-dark thirty road trip have started with a big cup of black coffee and one of the most transcendental and numinous works ever composed: Albinoni's Adagio. Jazz was my "gateway drug" it got me into blues, blues-rock, rock, heavy metal, etc. But in modern genres, I tend toward the bands with sophisticated musicianship and intelligent lyrics. Just as many road trips have started on the other end of my musical-appreciation spectrum, with Metallica's Wherever I May Roam. "...and the road becomes my bride."

Congratulations, great machine. It appears to have a center-stand, that's a rare feature.

You are hereby and henceforth banned from riding other motorcycles.

I bet the teeth in Docc's flywheel are wearing out. Mileage: unknown Multiple previous owner habits: unknown Symptoms of failure: it first appeared as slipping under hard acceleration at high speeds. It seems the combined effect of wind resistance and the sudden application of torque were too much for the clutch. I rode for quite a while with it that way - just avoided high-speed roll-ons. The first time it slipped from a standing start I rode it back home gently, parked it, and ripped it out. So - go get some speed and whack the throttle open. If the clutch holds, continue on your merry way. As soon as yours slips, order the parts (plates and springs) - then replace at your convenience.

You had me going there at #7, then I saw the fine print. Great progress. What, if anything, do you have to do to the California crankshaft?

Wow. Somebody actually bid $11,000. That seems like a lot - even with all the extra work and extra parts included.

I think I understand the symptoms better now - you may have water in the clutch fluid. This would give you normal clutch action when cold, then it could start to boil when it gets hot - causing air bubbles and a lack of pressure. New fluid is definitely job #1. Check the fileshare section of this forum for links to download manuals.

My first guess is low fluid level - and since it's a new-to-josh bike which probably has been sitting (given low miles) it's good to just flush it (and all the other fluids) to be sure it's full and fresh before trying anything else. I'm not really sure what's going on in inside the master cylinder, but when I put the new clutch in my LeMans recently, it would not disengage the clutch completely. Then I adjusted the lever position and turned in the push-screw. Now when I pull the clutch lever, it completely disengages (like it's supposed to). I think I'll go ride it now and get a pint of Cherry Garcia...

Welcome. She's just trying to see if you really love her. Give her some attention and tell her she's pretty. When my clutch went bad, I first noticed it at high speeds in top gears (just as you described). When I changed it, I discovered that the springs were much weaker than the new replacement springs. But don't go to springs yet (that's a big job). Start with some simple stuff, such as: Clutch Flush the clutch fluid Look at the adjustments on the clutch lever (one will position the lever further away from the handlebar, another will make the actuator stick out farther into the master cylinder Running How old is the gas? Basic tune/maintenance: Spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, valve adjustment, etc. Get the basics out of the way, then see what's going on.