Scud

Phil - I agree that a motor can run a long time on low pressure. My LeMans surely did - we had some discussion a while back about the problem I had with that bike (I was first alerted to it by the LOP warning light at idle). A gauge helped me diagnose the problem, which turned out the be two tabs missing from the oil journals (upper sump gasket). Here's the thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19114 It's Ironic that the problem would have been solved if I had just put in a Roper plate, because that would have caused me to replace the gaskets (but no plates were available at the time). It's a good argument that no new bike comes with a pressure gauge - and many cars don't have them either (and if they do, they're usually just L to H - no numbers). I think I had a very rare problem where a gauge actually helped figure it out (I mean really... who puts an engine together with no gasket surface around the oil pump's oil journals?) It never occurred to me to suspect that as a problem. It seems to me, that an oil pressure gauge could give an early warning regarding any internal, pressure-robbing oil leak. I imagine that a loosening oil filter would show the same symptoms as I experienced with two pieces of missing gasket. Therefore, I think that a gauge could give ample warning when a filter starts loosening (assuming a person wanted to look at it.) And I think a lot of people don't notice when a light fails to turn on. The hose clamp, of course, works for anyone who is willing to remove the lower sump at each oil change. I'll give one other reason for a gauge - but this is just me. I know I don't NEED a gauge, but I think it's cool. It's just personalization and adornment for my bike - totally irrational. But jeez, if I was rational, I'd still have my BMW R1100RT.

Have my eye on a 2001 Greenie V11 Sport. I spotted a Greenie at the MGNOC national rally this year and immediately fell in love it, so I got to get one!! Fly and Ride. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mcy/5684352803.html no association with seller, disclaimer, disclaimer, etc.

My LeMans maintains over 20psi at idle (since I fixed my internal pressure problem). I agree that another gauge might not look good on a naked bike, but a set of multi-gauges would be nice (like the motratech). Too bad Speedhut doesn't make a 3 3/8 Speedo/Oil Pressure combo gauge. I'd buy that. should you decide to, I'd like to follow the process:) did you add to the LM or was it already on it? I added the gauges to my LeMans - and tried 2 different versions for the oil pressure. There is a lot of room for gauges behind a LeMans fairing. Details are in the Installing Speedhut Gauges thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038&page=3

Oh crap. I assume you're going to want to do some improvements to the motor, which could take a while. I still have the complete motor from my parts bike. Do you want to borrow it so you'll have something to ride while you rebuild yours? Or if you want to buy it, we could talk about that too. I'm taking my daughter back to Flagstaff, AZ for school next weekend, we could drive through Phoenix with the motor in the truck - and meet you there. This makes me want to put an oil-pressure gauge on my Scura. I really like having the oil pressure (and voltmeter) on the Lemans. The warning light basically only works when it's too late. A pressure gauge tells you what's going on.

I have a spare gearbox, but it's with me in California. Sending PM in case a used one is a viable option for you.

I think mechanics generally go by estimating guides provided by the factory. Ask him to explain why it takes 12 hours. For comparison, I think I could do a complete clutch in 12 hours and I tend to go slow and read the manual while I do the work. It is a big job (you've got to remove either the engine or the transmission), but I think someone who's done it a few times could go faster. I doubt it can be done in less than 8 hours though.

With that topic title, I did not expect to see such a major bummer. Here's hoping it's something simple/easy. Can a starter motor stay engaged and cause these symptoms after 30 seconds of running? I assume you'll be draining the oil and possibly dropping the sump soon - to check for evidence. As for what's in the realm of fantasy - I know you wanted a Turbo K75s. How about a turbo V11? Whatever the case, best of luck - and get it done before winter (aka riding season in Tuscon).

Get a RAM ball that screws into the mirror mount. I think it's an M10 thread. Then, with some RAM arms and various holders, you can put whatever you want on it. I mostly use a handheld GPS, but here is an iPhone holder converted to a hand-drawn map-window.

I don't think anybody mentioned the age of the tires yet. You might want to check the date codes for date of manufacture and see if you're comfortable with that age of tire. If you get new tires - put some angled valve stems in at the same time to make checking pressure easy.

I have the same Hyperpro as JB on my LeMans. I also found it to be an improvement, but I don't think the Sachs was in good shape at the time (so not a totally fair comparison). I like the fact that I could buy the unit relatively inexpensively, they set it up based on my weight and riding style, and that the external reservoir and related adjustments can be added later (for a price), during a rebuild. If I could vote twice, I would have clicked Ohlins for my Scura. It's better, but some of that may be due to the forks also being better. The same road just feels smoother on my Ohlins-Scura vs my Marzocchi-Hyperpro-LeMans.

Just wondering... do you have much experience riding? If not, can I please suggest the following: Take a motorcycle safety class. Many classes include portions of (or all) the license requirements. I think it varies state by state. Buy a smaller, used bike and ride it everywhere for a few months. Dual-sports (such as Suzuki DR400s) are great learner bikes, nobody cares if you drop them a few times, and there's always a market for them. Then sell it when you feel comfortable on the V11.

Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following: Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well. Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there. Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead. Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach). Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.

Not a very difficult project at all. It's bolt-on, with the exception of the need to elongate a hole in the sidestand mount. Here's a good thread on installation: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985 Update re my oil leak: the leak nothing at all to do with the plate or gaskets. My problem was that I failed to secure the breather hose (I had engine out to replace the clutch at same time). It turns out that I wasted time by reinstalling the plate with a sealant.

As I understand it, the transmissions were different starting in 2002. It seems like lengthening the arm on the foot lever would apply to all model/years - but do you know if the internal modifications are also needed in 2002 and later models?

Godzilla: I ate Tokyo. ZZ Top did a custom Cadillac they called Cadzilla - it had a similar plate.

1 N/m is 0.74 lb/ft I use an app on my phone called Converter+ so I can type in the spec in Nm and see it in lb/ft. I think I should just get a metric torque wrench.

All I can see is a map with twisty roads....

Despair: I just recovered from my own self-inflicted oil-leak despair. You'll get there too. Looks like the stable-mates will keep you riding while you sort this out. History: Did you ride the bike before you got it? By that I mean: did it appear to be trouble-free and then this problem just suddenly appeared - or is it possible that this is the reason the PO sold the bike? Color: Scuras are supposed to be dark and stealthy. I think yours suffered deep psychological trauma by being gussied up like a cheerful Coppa Italia. It's like making an introvert dress in pastel florals and go to a baby shower. Simply dreadful... It's acting out against social pressures that go against its nature. Relays: I have seen more than one problem solved by replacing all 5 relays with 5-pin Omrons. It's an inexpensive, and easy thing to do. It also gives peace of mind against future relay failure. Get 5 of these: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

well... assuming the rider is fully restored, I'm looking forward to see how the bike project goes.

And the bonehead award goes to... Scud for his leading role in failing to put the hose clamp on the breather hose when he put the engine back in. Good news - I just ran 50 miles with lots of time at 5,000 to 7,000 RPM. Not even a single drop of oil on the floor (and only a bit of residue from the mess before came out the bell housing weep hole). Bad news - I burned a lot of time thinking of the worst possible scenarios and re-sealing stuff that was probably not leaking in the first place. (I tried to post 11 Dohs as pennance, but got an error message that I exceeded maximum allowed emoticons) Without this forum, I would not have thought to look at the breather hose. I think I would have gotten about halfway through the engine removal process before I noticed the missing hoseclamp. Thanks. It turned over 13,000 miles this evening - which means I've only put about 5,000 on it in the year-plus I've had it. But it spent about as much time on the lift as on the road. Maybe lucky 13k marks time for a change. Actual mileage remains unknown, since odometer was not working - but I think it has quite a lot more than 13,000. Good times (and a proper assault on the Sierra Nevadas) ahead... Oh - and the clutch is fabulous. It even lost traction at the rear wheel on a downhill, engine braking, downshift (no rear brake applied). Very exciting...

Just start a topic in 24/7 V11. We've had a few project-bike threads and I tried collecting them here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18962 Some forums have a dedicated project section for people who want to document a project and get advice along the way. I've seen some of your other completed projects and would enjoy tagging along as you do a V11.

I have a trouble-free Yuasa in my Scura - and no modifications to wiring, with the exception of an extra ground to the voltage regulator case. For the ground, look behind the seat lock, not the helmet lock. Remove the seat lock (2 allen screws). The ground should be securely attached to the transmission case behind the seat lock. Some have cured the melting fuse problem with a MAXI fuse holder instead of the OEM 30-amp in the fuse block. Docc has some good posts on the issue. I put one in my LeMans as a preventative measure, but didn't get around to putting one in the Scura yet.

Thanks guys, I think all the evidence points to the breather hose. The leak didn't appear when I warmed it up at idle, nor when I rode slowly around the neighborhood (with lots of sloshing back and forth and a few quick starts). The leak only became active when I got the revs up. I have a new breather hose and maybe can install it tonight - if not, it's going to be a couple weeks.

Now that's worthy of starting a dedicated build thread so we can follow along....

Hmm... I found this very useful thread about the same type of leak that plagued Docc for a while. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18243&page=1 Will order in all the appropriate hoses and O-rings to address the non-engine out issues. Since I just had the engine out for the clutch, it makes sense that I may have disturbed things that were not previously leaking.