Scud

I went back and read the section in Total Control about braking. Summary: the faster you go, the less you should use the rear brake. The slower you go, the more you should use the rear brake. He cites the fact that most police use only the rear brake for low-speed precision maneuvers - and many road-racers do not use the rear brake at all.

Nobody pulled anything. Read it again... it's about what JB said, an honest exchange between fellow enthusiasts. Want a fuel sensor? I still have it - but my beer sensor reads nearly empty.

Palomar Mountain South Grade today. @LowRyter - inspired? Come visit.

I'm looking for a set of non-crossover headers to install on my LeMans. I previously had the crossovers welded closed, but I'm not thrilled with the appearance. What I have to sell or trade: one 2002 RH header in good shape - this has the smooth, one-piece clamp. A pair of early sport headers in good shape (but some surface rust) - these have the finned clamps that require two inner bits. What I want to buy (or receive in trade): LH header to match the 2002 RH OR a pair of headers like the 2002 example I estimate the value of one header at $50. Buy/sell/trade - can anyone help? Edit - I found a pair of used headers, so the ones in the picture are now for sale only.

You relocated the voltage regulator? That seems like it would be quite an involved project. What's the problem with the current location - or the benefit of the new location?

Let's have another Scura rally, then we can compare and see what's going on. This time we can actually ride Scuras instead of our LeManseseses (what is the correct plural form of LeMans?) You need to get it over 6,000 RPM in all the other gears - in the name of "research."

Yes - that's exactly right. LOL

Just finished packing up everything I could - until I ran out of upper sump gaskets. As soon as I receive the remaining gaskets I'll ship the rest. The numbers are working out as expected. Thank-you all for trusting me with your money in advance so I could consolidate it, get it to Pete, and get this project rolling. I made a donation of €130 (a bit more than US$150) to the forum. I still have a few plates available, and will get gaskets to make them into kits on the same terms. Send me a PM if you want one. I am hoping for a very special thing along with the gasket shipment... Footgoose is hoping too... but we don't want to jinx it... shhhhh....

That's a clean Greenie for $3,800 - only a few hours away from Las Vegas. I hereby offer to ride it from San Francisco to Las Vegas for $700 (just to help everyone get the price they want). I'll even buy my own plane ticket to SF. I promise not to put more than 2,000 miles on it.

The guys at MG counseled me through getting all the right parts and choosing between various friction materials and options for the intermediate plate. I don't know about resurfacing needs... still on the learning curve. But (keeping with the topic of this thread) it does seem that the twin-plates go for many miles - depending, of course on riding style. My first indication of a problem was that I noticed the revs shoot up a bit at application of throttle at high speed - with no corresponding increase in MPH - thus indicating clutch slip. I've ridden it a bit since - and on my last ride, I got some clutch slip from a standing start, which I consider dangerous. So now she's having a time-out for bad behavior. I probably did about 1,000 miles between first noticing the problem and when it got to the point I considered it serious. Between those points, I had already ordered the parts. I think Docc mentioned that he is planning to replace his flywheel after breaking the 100,000 mile mark. That's when it gets expensive - and also a big part of why the single to dual disc conversions are expensive. That conversion requires a different flywheel.

Go Docc!!! Dedicate yourself to turning over 100,000 miles this weekend. What could possibly be more important than that? Tom - I am about the replace the clutch on my LeMans, which has unknown miles. I just got all the parts in from MG cycle for a bit over $200: 2 plates, intermediate plate, new springs, and some bolts. Also bought their alignment tool. There a several threads documenting the process. I think my favorites are the people who do it in their living room - that would make it more fun.

Most of the gaskets arrived today. While getting ready to ship some kits, I spotted a book on the shelf with a title that seemed fitting: Complexity and Group Processes. I'm sending PMs with tracking numbers as I ship them. Got a few done tonight for shipment tomorrow. Will do another batch tomorrow and keep at it till I run out of gaskets.

If you're looking for the exhaust hangers - the ones that attach to subframe and hold the passenger pegs - I have a set like this one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-03-V11-NAKED-OEM-LEFT-REAR-FOOTPEG-BRACKET-2002-V-11-FOOT-PEG-/391092270909?hash=item5b0eea773d:g:rCYAAOSwEppUQC5b&vxp=mtr They are from my parts bike, but I recently had them powder-coated black. Send me PM if that's what you're looking for - then I'll dig 'em out and get a picture.

I've been struck by the number of "reverse negotiations" I've been involved in with forum members. What do I mean? Well, a "normal" negotiation is where the seller tries to get the highest possible price and the buyer tries to get the lowest possible price. Both as a buyer and seller, I've been involved in reverse negotiations that go kind of like this. Seller: I'd like $XX for this part. Buyer: $XX is not nearly enough for that. You could sell it for more. Let me give you $XX+ Seller: OK, but only if you will also accept this extra bit, which would go nicely with it. Buyer: You really don't have to do that, but I would appreciate it. What else can I do for you? Seller: Can't think of anything right now - "pay it forward" to somebody else. I've also been involved in plenty of "normal" negotiations - and those have all been respectful. Apparently, Guzzi owners have a reputation for being cheap. Maybe that's true when shopping retail, but I sure don't see cheapness between members here. I just wanted to point out how cool this community is.

Roy, I think that's part of it. Here's my understanding of the main benefits/functions: Sloppage - the plate provides a ceiling for the oil at the back of the sump. This stops the oil from rushing way up the back of the engine, which could expose the oil pickup. This is most likely to happen on hard acceleration, wheelies, going up steep grades, or some combination thereof. Windage - the plate contains most of the splashing oil, which reduces the amount of oil that can escape through the breather system. Oil capacity - the plate itself does not increase the capacity of the sump - but it allows you to put more oil in the sump without worrying about excess windage. More oil = slower breakdown of the molecules. Coolness - self-explanatory. Resale value - see JB's comments at the start of this thread. Pete shipped me more plates than I asked for. I think I have 4 still available - but I am waiting on gaskets before I can ship kits.

I think we need to see a new thread documenting whatever you're doing to this motorcycle. Sounds like you've been busy? You have some "before" pics? And some process pics? I'm going to want to paint my engine soon too - interested in what you learn doing yours. There was some sort of problem with the 2002 engine paint. I think a lot of people got new cases under warranty. The problem was only the fuzzy paint in 2002 on the engine - for some reason, it seems to hold up well on tranny and final drive - at least that's been my experience.

Try the V11LeMans.com brick thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19273&hl=

Bummer - after escaping one the worst fires in recent memory your bike gets abused by a negligent driver. But sounds like the damage is manageable, especially if you imagine what could have happened if it tipped.

JC - your 2002 bike does not use the "sausages" (I like calling them that) under the seat. It would have come new in the US with the canister as in the illustration in the Harper's link I posted above. I happen to have three of them - two I'm keeping with the bikes they belong to, but one was removed from a 2002 LeMans that I got for parts (it was wrecked). I dug it out and took a picture for you. It is still connected to the exhaust hanger, exactly the way I removed it from the bike. The large hose goes to the tank vent. A small hose goes from the open nipple to a T then to both throttle bodies. I sent you a PM in case you are interested in this. Personally, I felt comfortable removing the unit because I believe they don't do much (if anything). Saving a pint of fuel in 100 miles would make me think about reinstalling it. Can you let me know where you got that information? By the way - 2002 and earlier models have an external fuel pump. It's on the frame, under the tank. They switched to internal fuel pumps in 2003. I felt similarly about my 2003 LeMans - it needed a lot of help and I shook my head in amazement several times. I documented my (mis)adventures with it in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= It's been frustrating at times - but they are wonderful bikes once sorted out. Keep the faith!

So far it's been smooth sailing. ...and the first three plates have been dispatched without gaskets - two Tonti plates and one on the way to a dealer to catch a motorcycle mid-service. Hopefully, I can ship most of the rest next week when the gaskets come in. ======================== In addition to the install thread I linked to above, here's the basic install process. It has 12 steps to help with our curious form of addiction: Drain oil. Remove lower sump (pan). Remove sidestand. Remove upper sump (ring) and internal pipes where the filter goes. Install plate between upper sump ring and block - use 2 gaskets to sandwich the plate - note that surface imperfections on plate will not be a problem, the gaskets will fill any minor scratches. Install gaskets dry - no glue. Take a picture of your dipstick, notice how much it sticks through the plate, think about using more oil than the factory recommendation. Install oil filter - determine whether you are "security-hose-clamp" or "turns-past-contact" kind of guy. Install lower sump pan and gasket. Fill oil. Elongate lower hole in sidestand bracket. The plate mounts between the brackets' two holes, therefore the lower hole should be enlarged downward by about the thickness of the plate. Install sidestand. Go WOT up the nearest mountain.

Seems that for riders who do use the rear brake regularly, the 4-piston caliper would be helpful. More surface area = longer pad life and more heat dissipation. I'm switching to DOT 5.1 fluid for all brakes as extra insurance. It has a higher boiling point than the DOT 4. To the riding style point: the shortest stopping distances are recorded when the bike does a mild stoppie - with the rear wheel in the air. Obviously, the rear brake provides 0% of stopping power if there's no tire contact to the street. But these tests are done in controlled environments. On the street, with potential potholes, sand, oil, etc. it makes sense to use some rear brake. I'd much rather risk locking up the rear than the front. To Andy's earlier point about regarding mountain riding, I do worry about overheating my front brakes in the mountains, and it's not just the grade of the road. For example, the orange section in the attached image represents a 900 foot descent in 1 mile. That's a 17% grade. The entire highlighted route represents a one mile vertical descent in 15 miles (that's net and excludes all the in-between ups and downs). It's not just the steepness, but the corners (where I do some trail braking) that concern me - and the frequency and duration of them. This kind of twistiness goes on for 100 miles. So I push it a while, then take it easy a while - thinking that this will cool the brakes. BTW as for another preventative technique re rear brake: I find that the engine slows the rear wheel plenty and I don't need the rear brake much.

Here we have a stack of plates. They don't weigh much independently, but dang... they sure get heavy when you pile 'em up. All nice and official with motomoda Australia etched right in them - along with a phone number. So if you forget the number to Pete's dealership, just take your engine apart, and there it is...

When Chuck, Rox, and I rode the Santa Monica Mountains recently (with subsequent visit to Todd's GuzziTech shop in Malibu), Rox did lose rear brake pressure (and it came right back after cooling). Todd said he frequently loses rear brake pressure in the mountains. There are some seriously long and steep climbs/descents. Riding style is probably part of it. I tend to go heavy on the front brake and think of the rear sort of like an emergency brake. I've never lost front or rear brake pressure. But I couldn't keep up with Rox while descending Tuna Canyon, and I'm pretty sure Todd would leave us both far behind. I posted this image before, but for context, here's Tuna Canyon: an 1,800 foot drop in 4 miles. Single-lane, one-way, downhill only - no risk of encountering opposing traffic. This kind of terrain will give any bike's brakes a workout - and send the V11's oil sloshing backward during full-throttle ascents. (see Roper Plate for solution to that)

I think almost everything on the list above is readily available from Harpers, MG Cycle, or other dealer. Foot levers will be aftermarket from Harpers. However, the matching valve cover will be hard to find. If it's only scratched, you'd be better off having the pair powdercoated. If one is damaged from the fall, buy a used one in any color, then powdercoat the good pair. For "tip-over-protector" consider aftermarket parts that stick out farther and offer more protection to the plug. I got a pair from MotoBits, posted a pic of it here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&page=9

Here's a thread documenting installation, including Pete's opinion about proper oil level - just below the plate. It has some good discussion about what the plate does and why you might want one (or in Rox's case, two). http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985 -------------- Update on the kits - as Pete posted above, the plates are on the way to the US. MG Cycle shipped to me today, but they only had enough gaskets to do 20 kits now - balance available within 2 weeks. Once I get everything in, I'll ship in this order: Tonti plates (I am not supplying gaskets for these and don't have to wait for anything else) Anyone who sends me a message and says they have urgent need (such as bike is currently in service) Order of payments I received