Scud

OK - so it looks you are all set. I think that, from the factory, the line that's stamped into the face of the splined shaft is supposed to line up with the gap in the cast arm.

I have a spare. PM sent.

Ken - I also just sorted a shifting problem. I feared all the complicated stuff - but the problem on mine was also in the linkage. I think you may solve the wrong problem if you replace the bolt on the cover. From what I can see, it appears that the clamping bolt is missing from the cast shift linkage piece (the actuating lever). That splined shaft has a groove in it, the bolt seats in that groove and keeps the arm from sliding in too far - which would prevent it from contacting the bolt you are concerned about. The surface of the shaft should be flush with the lever. It's kind of hard to see on mine (since everything mysteriously turned black) but maybe this picture will help you see what I mean.

Not sure what's going on with that foamy substance - haven't seen such a thing in my gauges. That might indicate that somebody else was trying to solve the problem with the tach - but I don't think it can explain the other symptoms you originally described.

That's the same shock I put on my LeMans. Also got a free-rebuild coupon. I didn't have to make any adjustments when I installed it. They took all my information and the sag was correct after installation. Very good shock for a great price (especially when you factor in that free service). Did you get your forks back yet?

Here is a MotoBit guard compared to the stock guard.

I don't see any photos in this thread. Try again?

As for the pattern, it uses the stock reflector, which I think is the major factor affecting the pattern. However, I think the LED provides more light everywhere, so it appears to provide a better center focus, as well as a little more side illumination than the standard bulb I removed. Re night rain: apologies in advance, but I think it's going to be a long time till I test it in the rain - day or night. Please send rain to my drought-stricken state. The Halogen bulb doesn't have any extra stuff behind the bulb, right? If so - that seems a better/easier way to improve lighting on bikes with the small, plastic buckets.

Wind it the opposite direction of how you reset the tripmeter.

Now playing Black Sabbath Vol 4. This evening I spent a good hour reading about reasons why I might be missing downshifts. Got all mentally prepared to get into the transmission gear selector box. Got the lift ready. Pushed the bike in. Noticed that one fastener on the shift linkage was loose. Tightened it. Went for a ride. Shifts perfectly again. In other news - I received a nice pair of head guards from MotoBits. They are silver, which just won't do... but they're a nice shape, have recesses for the bolts, and they are big enough to protect the spark plugs. They'll look great in black.

Ha - me too. I'm going to try to get 12,000 miles out of my stock Scura clutch (rolling the proverbial dice that it won't grenade before then). At 12,000 I'll do some other maintenance and put in whatever clutch I can get my hands on. Ride on.

I talked to the guys at MG Cycle, who said that the current RAM clutches are very durable. The only problem is making one appear in your shop - I've had one on backorder for close to a year now. You might call those guys and explain your issue, they may be able to advise you and supply a part if needed. I think there is a difference in rod length between single and dual plate clutches. If you have a too-short rod, it may be that the clutch slave has to use up most of its range of motion just to engage initially. I don't think that a twin-plate is a big step backwards. I have one of each. If I ride the LeMans (twin plate) for a while, the first time I get on the Scura (single plate) I find the clutch engages very quickly. While I like the idea of keeping a single plate clutch in my Scura, I'm probably going to end up putting a used twin-plate in there. I prefer the twin-plate, but no so much that I'd be willing to do a lot more maintenance on it - worse yet, letting it sit for a year waiting for a part. FWIW - I have a complete, used twin-plate clutch on the shelf awaiting installation (assuming the new RAM doesn't show up before I'm ready). I can take a measurement or photo of any part for you. Also - I'm pretty sure there are some detailed threads on here with photos of all twin and single-plate parts laid out side-by-side.

Nice checkup. That little bulb cover fell off mine too - and wore the chrome off the bottom of the reflector. I used some plastic chrome spray paint, which is not as reflective as the original chrome, but at least it's not black. I was "this close" to cutting the back of the headlight bucket. That's cool with the clear cover so we can see how the components fit.

There a few good threads here about changing from the stock single-plate to the dual plate. Given that the RAM kit was meant to replace the dual plate, you might look carefully at the parts list in one of these threads. I think this might be one of the most complete: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18068

@SP - true that LEDs are not bulbs; they're Light Emitting Diodes. Anyway, here's how I stuffed mine into a LeMans headlight bucket, which must be much smaller than the sport bucket. I cut down the raised ring around the light (see Dremel with cut-off wheel in background). Then I zip-tied the extra components around the LED base to hold them in place. It was still a tight fit and I had to mash it in there. There's a little tension on the bucket, as evidenced by a little gap where it does not seat perfectly to the chrome ring - but that small gap is covered by a foam ring and protected by the fairing. Ride report: Rode about 40 miles last night, including crowded surface streets, freeway, and unlit canyon roads. The LED provides far superior illumination - and the high-beam in total darkness is simply fabulous - and worth the effort. Nobody flashed their brights at me when I had the low-beam on, so the light does not appear to be obnoxious to other drivers. FWIW, I did adjust the headlight a bit lower because I was concerned about that - I'll experiment with raising its focus a bit. At the end of the ride, I felt the headlight bucket, and although it was warmer than the fairing, it was not hot. Summary - this LED may be an easy install for the large, metal buckets on the Sport models, but it's a tricky install in the plastic LeMans bucket, which is form-fit to the OEM components. If you ride at night, an LED headlight is worth doing somehow.

SP - that looks a lot like the one I got from Guzzi Tech. I took the headlight off my LeMans too - same exact bucket at the Scura. Starting hacking away at the raised ring on the back of the light. Still struggling to make it fit. Maybe photos of success later.

Docc - that'll be the one at the link in Marty's post (#49) above. We've been trading some goodies and he had to buy two of those bulbs - so his leftover is coming back to the US...

Thanks JB. Just tried again, still can't make it fit. I thought, perhaps, you were being generous by offering that your bike's headlight bucket might be larger. Then I went to Harper's website parts diagrams - and wouldn't you know, the headlight on the Scura is different than all the other 2002s. It's a tight, little, black, form-fitting headlight cover. Just one more way the Scura is special... FWIW - the Scura headlight bucket looks quite large in the attached illustration. I can assure you that is not the case. I'm certainly not worried about maintaining the originality of the backside of a plastic headlight insert. However - I think I will try this light on the LeMans, which has still a different bucket. I'm going to try the LED headlight Marty recommends in the Scura - no extra plugs or ballast on that one.

Thanks gents, for this thread. Here is the H4 LED headlight from GuzziTech - with OEM bulb for comparison. The electrical is plug and play. I connected it to the bike and it is WOW bright. BUT.... I cannot figure out how to close the light with all the extra bits in there. The base of the LED light (with a fan in it) takes the same space that the plug used to take - now I have to squeeze in the plug and the black box. Been at it for almost an hour... I'm tempted to cut out some of the ring that the OEM rubber boot goes onto. But before I start cutting, it would be great if somebody could "enlighten" me about how all this fits in the bucket.

Sounds like a proper shakedown. Congratulations on the bike. Since she's new to you, it wouldn't hurt to pull the tank off and unplug/clean/reconnect every electrical connection, including your battery and ground wires. Maybe clean up the switches on the handle bars too. Docc maintains a tank-off maintenance checklist which you may as well have a go at. A lot of people (self included) swap out all the relays to eliminate them as potential sources of problems. It seems the Omron brand work well and are only about $5 or $6 (US) each from Digikey. As for being together forever... If for some reason I had to consolidate down to one motorcycle, my Scura would be the survivor.

LOL For the record, and I think I already posted this elsewhere, Harpers is working on a replacement rod that will accept some type of standard, replaceable, bushing - at least that's what they said about month or two ago when I talked with them.

Update - the spare PC545 I had took a charge and still reads 12.7 volts after sitting on my workbench for about a month. This battery came from my parts bike, and it cranked it over without any problems. The sticker has 0811 on it, which I think means it was made in August 2011. The batteries in my bikes are newer and I have no need for this one. Therefore I am offering it for the cost of shipping to whoever needs a battery. I can fit it in a medium size USPS flat rate box. Send me a PM if you want it. Edit: battery has been claimed.

Rode 150 miles to my favorite taco shop (near Mexican border) for a $5.00 breakfast burrito (weighs about 5 pounds). Someday I am going to sit there till I can finish one of those monsters. Marty's thermometer said the oil was 105 Celcius. On the way home, I started missing about half of my 5>4 downshifts and was getting some bothersome chatter/feedback - also bothersome to be in neutral leading into corners. But searching here suggests that I probably just need to get friendly with acorn nuts, springs, levers, and pins in the gearbox selector area. That and a some slipping of the clutch will be sending the red girl back to the lift... she must like it there.

I didn't know you were suffering, but I'm glad to hear that it's over. I've been helped many times by a chiropractor. I think it might be about time to go for a visit - I go occasionally just to get "straightened out."

Love the milk jug! But still looking forward to the results of the powder-coating. The speed sensor seems to have nearly vanished since you painted it black. Now you can also make the cable disappear.