Scud

Haha. I cannot think of even one answer that I would be willing to post in a public forum. Perhaps another time...

Maybe time to clean up all those relay contacts... Today I tested MartyNZ's new dipstick/thermometer (source MG-Cycle) on my LeMans before sending it on. Marty - you'll be glad to know that not only does it look cool and tell the temperature in degrees Celsius, it makes the bike faster, and improves handling, braking, and fuel economy. ...now I want one.

Bad news for me - but maybe good news for somebody else... The Corbin doesn't fit. There are at least two points preventing the seat from closing, and I suspect that if I relieve those, that some others will reveal themselves. Two bump stops can be easily removed by drilling out rivets, but clearing the relays would take quite a deep gouge. It's otherwise a very nice seat, although the green corner is worn through on the edge. The red part of the seat cover is not the same hue as my LeMans' bodywork - and I am fussy about matching colors... So, rather than cut the pan and recover the "flag" portion, I'm inclined to move this along to somebody with a red-frame sport. It would look fabulous on a silver, black, or grey tailpiece. Send me a PM if you're interested. 4-14-16 Edit: Seat is "reserved"

Thanks for the step-by-step instructions and identification of parts needed. I already have the main gasket on hand, but did not order the crank seal - I'll get one of those. You saved me from getting stuck with the bike open and in need of a part.

I've been very happy with a few sets of Pirelli Angel GTs. I didn't hear about the takeover... interesting, thanks for mentioning it. But it seems they are keeping the brand name, unlike when Yokohama sold their motorcycle tire business to a Korean firm - now manufactured under the Shinko name. Jeez... I was looking at some parts on my 1997 Ford truck today (many of which have metric fasteners) and they were made in Canada, Germany, etc. Globalization is here to stay.

Today I balanced the throttle bodies on the LeMans. It hadn't been running well since I installed new rubber boots, so I assume my last balance must have compensated for a small air leak - better now. Then I went for a little romp. It was great fun after doing a pair of 400-mile, 50% slab, days on the BMW this week (round trip to Phoenix for work). Ordered an LED headlight from GuzziTech. The H4 lamp is supposed to be plug and play. If I can see better at night, the LeMans will finally be ready to go the distance.

Building on KiwiRoy's earlier suggestion about adding a sensor on the oil return line - could't you use the stock engine temp sensor somehow to activate the fan? Then it would turn on only when it reaches a certain temperature. Regarding the need for a fan: I hardly ever get stuck in traffic (since we can split lanes here in CA) - but I overheated my Scura on the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride. After many miles of crawling along in 1st and 2nd gear it was struggling - then I had a hard time getting it started (it sat for maybe 10 minutes). If I do that charity ride again, I might go on my water-cooled bike...

There a probably many equally effective ways of getting these wired in. FWIW - I powered all 4 gauges from the wires that previously supplied two light bulbs in one of the ITI gauges. I used the fuse that Speedhut supplied - and tucked it inside the gauge housing.

In posts 13 and 14 of this thread I tried to explain/document the wiring I used. I did not use the resistor - I only tapped into existing wires in the dash. One of the three wires that goes with the existing tach plug carries the signal - the red wire with black strip in my hand in post #13. You'll KiwiRoy's explanation of those wires in earlier posts. - that's how I knew to use that wire. I think Speedhut's instructions assume that you are adding a tach and that there is no existing signal wire.

Battery Tender makes a USB port adapter. It plugs in where you would otherwise charge the bike. I extended my charging cable from the battery to put it where I want the USB port (ran it up the frame to the area between headlight and RH handlebar.) When I want USB, I plug in the adapter. When I want to change the bike, the plug is up nice and high. When I don't want either, It's just got a cap on it. I'm most likely to want to charge my phone while the bike is off - so having it use the un-switched charging wire works for me. Some devices get disrupted when power is switched on and off - such as when stopping for fuel. That's true of my GPS, and another reason I like the un-switched power. My reasons are purely utilitarian - KiwiRoy probably has some electrical knowledge behind his suggestions.

This thread is a few years old - so maybe we shouldn't expect a response from thebronze. My Scura started leaking on the LH side of the timing cover. I've got a new gasket (and dressing) on hand, awaiting the appropriate time to install. I temporarily stopped the leak by forcing high-temp black silicone into the affected area and by re-torquing all the fasteners. Silicone is a bit sloppy and not the ideal way to fix this, but in my case, I don't care because the engine paint already looks like crap and I plan to repaint it soon (bubbling 2002 paint).

Let me see if I understand this: You have some used oil line fittings that came with the used sump ring - but they are flaking You also have good oil lines and fittings on your bike, which you plan on using If that's correct, then where is your concern? Is it that something may be wrong with the upper sump ring? Can you see any damage to sump ring? Or perhaps you are just curious?

Welcome - sounds like you are enjoying it and getting ready to enjoy it more. You can buy stock turn signals from MG Cycle. There are endless aftermarket options.

Well... there's an obvious place that I should've looked. Thanks again.

Thanks - I'll proceed and modify as needed.

I was able to get into Harper's site and they list two different part numbers for seats for different years. From what you guys are saying the overall dimensions and attaching mechanisms should be the same. But the shape under the seat may cause clearance problems - which can probably be addressed with some cutting or grinding. Does that seem right?

I just committed to buy the Corbin Gunfighter saddle that Zorro listed in classifieds. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19386 Then it hit me - that seat is on an early, red-frame bike and mine are later bikes with different frames. Does anyone know if the seat pans are interchangeable between the early, red-frame bikes and the 2002 and later bikes? FWIW - I tried to find the answer myself by looking up part numbers on Harper's website, but it's not functioning right now. I'd like to know before Zorro ships it from Canada to California. Thanks in advance.

Go back to page 1 of this thread and see some of the wiring discussion/photos. I used the signal wire from the stock plug - I did not try to tap in near the coil as suggested. The stock plug has three wires - power, ground, and signal. I snipped off the stock connecter and used the three wires that were already run to the gauge.

That'll be a bit over $8,000 US for a mid-low mileage (30,000 miles) bike that looks well-sorted with lots of aftermarket goodies and all the original kit included.

Witamy! Welcome to the international club of darkness.

You'll find the Shindy damper part number in the second post of this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18986&hl=shindy&do=findComment&comment=203906 To find it, I typed "Shindy" in the search box - making sure "forums" was selected, not "this topic."

Deliberate shifting will help. Some people (self included) have found that Redline Shockproof gear oil improves the feel of the transmission. There is a lightweight, blue oil, which some use in the tranny. I run the red heavy, shockproof in tranny and final drive. As for valve covers: I had mine powder-coated and am pleased with that - got the guards done at the same time so they match.

Fabulous motorcycle you have there. Time to put some miles on it. Maybe you should keep an eye on the rubber (such as air intake boots) as they are getting up in years. I put a Shindy damper on my LeMans, following Docc's good experience on a red-framed bike like yours. I've been pleased with it, although I leave it fairly loose for quicker steering and insurance against big bumps. Other than the seat, handlebars, flyscreen, luggage, and valve cover paint, it appears to be all stock. You might enjoy seeing a brochure for your bike when it was new: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18360&page=2

Mine has the stock crossover, but I have an FBF that I intend to put on. I was thinking about having the FBF reinforced, since I've heard about them cracking - maybe an exhaust hanger at the same time...

Marty - I had a similar problem with the kit mounted by the PO, although mine were in much worse condition and had been shortened by a few inches. Those are great-looking straps and appear to be an improvement over the ones provided with the kit. I notice that you even cut the rubber bits so they would extend all the way to the junction of the metal straps, which should prevent further wear into the titanium skin. I have a new Ti kit awaiting installation. What would it take for you to make another set of clamps? Feel free to switch over to private message if you want.