Scud

I installed a M10 x 1.25 pitch RAM ball for my GPS mount in mirror-mount hole. Conventional (righty-tighty) threads. Those numbers should be all you need.

LeMans Battery Test Results: Unplugged LeMans (was charging battery while installed on bike, through a connector I ran up to the dash). Waited about 90 minutes, measured, 13.01 volts Started it (cranked without any hesitation) and let it idle for maybe 30 seconds - then it read 12.95 volts. As a reminder, this battery was at 12.74 volts after regular riding and low-amperage Battery Tender supplements. Up next... the Yausa AGM in the Scura. This battery was at 12.58 volts when I plugged it in (just now) - also charging through connecter in dash. Selected 8amps and AGM... two buttons, walk away...

Todd will fill 'em with Malibu sunshine and a Pacific Ocean breeze for you. For holding up the front with forks off: sawhorses... straps from above... front end stand that supports lower triple clamp... where there's a will, there's a way.

I hate that too. And I was surprised when my LeMans set off the alarms (FYI, it was when riding very close to some parked cars). They're not obnoxiously loud, but they do have a palpable pulse - I can feel it when I start it up in the garage.

Too bad Australia and South Baltimore are so far apart... or we all get together for an exhaust-swap. sound meter, and dyno-run party. I saw what appeared to be the same exhaust on a 2000 V11 Sport for sale on Craigslist recently - so the OP is not alone in running this system. When I first saw it, I assumed it was a custom job, but seeing this thread, I realize it must have been commercially available. TooFat - will you be ending the suspense this weekend for us? As for data - how about the number of car alarms that go off in a crowded parking lot or structure? My Scura with stock exhaust sets off zero. My LeMans with sawed-off Titanium cans sets of several.

The BatteryMinder 12248 comes with a substantial manual, which can be previewed/downloaded from a link at the bottom of this page: http://www.batteryminders.com/12-volt-battery-charger-maintainer-desulfator-12248 Seeing you struggle with Odyssey's instructions, then seeing your relief with the AGM-specific charger is what convinced me to spring for an expensive, temperature-regulated unit. Prior to that I was just using some small, low-amperage Battery Tenders. So... when I said 8 amps for a few days... it means I have to choose the "Bulk Charge" rate, which the unit limits to 20 hours, then goes into maintenance/desulfate mode. The only other choice I have to make is battery type. Press 2 buttons and walk away... Here's a graph from the manual that shows what's the charger does:

Currently enjoying a Goose IPA - by Goose Island Beer Co. Others are apparently not amused to hear it called Guzzi IPA Why can you call a Guzzi a goose, but not call a goose a Guzzi?

Thanks Docc, it's nice to have some footsteps to follow in my battery experiment. I really have no need for all these extra batteries, but it's good for learning to work the new charger. I bet I could have saved many hundreds of $$$ had I learned the correct way to maintain vehicle batteries earlier. The LeMans will go on the new charger this weekend (while I take the Husky to the Anza Borrego Desert to make her jealous.) Discharge first... then 8 amps for a few days... and we'll see if that brings the nearly new AGM back up to 100%

Batteries and chargers have always been a bit of a "black box" to me. So I'm jumping in to try to figure this out - which could end up saving a lot of money. Thanks, Docc, for the advice. I have taken the following steps: Disconnected charger: battery at 13.4v immediately after disconnecting, but reading was dropping while I watched. Ate dinner (ribs, asparagus, salad) Opened a Goose IPA, by Goose Island - seemed thematically relevant Enjoyed the "Bright citrus aromas and bold hop finish" Tested battery: 12.85v Ran Slime portable air compressor for three minutes - figured that would be about enough to inflate a tire. Tested battery: 12.45v Reconnected battery - selected AGM and 8 amps Plugged in charger Placed additional, room-temperature Goose IPA in freezer for "quick charging" I feel that all of the above steps are essential (and that step 10 suggests an additional step). And here is the motorcycle battery "research environment" in my garage. Batteries in bikes (all of which have recently run but none have been on charger since last running): LeMans' PC545 at 12.74 - bought new less than a year ago (installed without any attempt at conditioning). Occasional starting problems as Czakky described. Scura's Yausa at 12.65 - about a year and a half old. Starts brilliantly without any hesitation. K75s' Yuasa at 12.79 - starts like the sewing machine that inspired its design (easiest starting bike I have ever owned). Husqvarna's Yausa at 12.62 - starts easily, but also has a kicker. Batteries on the bench: PC545 - subject of current test Three K75s batteries: an Odyssey PC680 at 5.98v, two Westcos at 12.72v and 10.47v

After getting the wrong charger twice (and returning it twice) via Amazon, I ordered from Northern Tool. Along with the correct charger came a large and highly distracting tool catalog (I mean an actual paper catalog...). I chose BatteryMinder 12248, because it is supposed to work on AGM, Gel, and Flooded batteries. I have a couple RV batteries for my trailer that have sat far too long - hoping this charger can make them useful again. I have four old motorcycle batteries to experiment with, but will start with the PC545 that came with the wrecked LeMans I bought. Here's the battery's story as best as I can tell: Manufactured August 2011 (0811 on sticker) Sat in bike for an extended period after crash - exact time unknown, but likely over 1 year, and the guy I bought it from had charged it once. After I got it home, I charged it with a simple Battery Tender - then got the wreck started to be sure the engine was still good. After dismantling, the battery sat for several more months on a wood bench (never on concrete) - I think I connected it to battery tender once during that time. Today it produced 12.50 volts - which is about 50% capacity according to the BatteryMinder booklet. With the charger: First connected charger to battery, then selected 2A and AGM, then plugged into A/C power. Note that it seems important to make the correct selections before plugging into A/C - the unit draws power from the battery to enable you to push the buttons to select battery type and charge rate. It started blinking (meaning fully charged) within 5 minutes. I disconnected and measured 12.69 volts. Then reconnected and will let it do its thing for about a week to see if it will restore the battery to 100% capacity. Per the manual: "If voltage is 12.4V or higher, a full recovery can be expected, given sufficient time (average 1-2 weeks for batteries that are heavily sulfated)." Ambient temperature:

There's room for it to run between the alternator cover screws and the plastic ring. A zip-tie or two may also be helpful. I've not had a problem, but it seems that it's vulnerable if not secured. If it fails, you can just twist the two wires together. I read that some people have bypassed the switch permanently (it was bypassed by a PO of my LeMans). I think the switch provides a worthwhile safety margin and is worth keeping (or reinstalling in my case).

For future reference - you do not need to remove the alternator cover. If you can get the rear wheel off the ground, you can put the transmission in gear and turn the engine over by turning the rear wheel.

Blueboarhound - Did you somehow wander into a smoke-free environment? Or perhaps you were disoriented by the liquid flowing from a tap, and lacking a bottle label had no frame of reference to choose a cigar? Or perhaps the non-matching coaster triggered your amygdala to hijack your rational faculties and your primal core self doesn't like cigars?

Docc - that sums it up perfectly. At this point I am just issuing ultimatums in anger, which I have no intentions of enforcing. We'll fuss a bit more - then we'll go for a make-up ride and all will be forgiven. But before that, I'm going to ride the other red Italian (Husqvarna) to make her jealous. And I'll remind her that the Husky has a much smaller backside... much longer legs.... and wears narrower shoes.

Yeah - a big relief to see that it's running pressures consistent with other bikes that have not had problems. It suggests that there is no serious damage and that the motor has some life left in it. FYI on the boots - I didn't have them seated all the way. So yesterday I rode about 150 miles and, given my increased confidence in the motor, was a bit more generous in the application of throttle. It seems the clutch cannot withstand WOT from 5,000 RPM in 6th gear, and is starting to slip - as evidenced by a temporary 1000 RPM increase, which I'm pretty sure is not wheel-spin. Ohhhh... she's testing my patience... (and adding evidence that she was NOT a low-mileage bike as I originally believed). I think she'll get the used clutch plates from the parts bike and the Scura will get new plates later. She needs to stay the hell off the lift after that.

She prefers you over the bike? That's not so bad... Or perhaps she finds it to be a less than ideal passenger vehicle... My wife rode on mine once (and only once). Then she bought a Triumph T-shirt, which she's been wearing a lot lately, including today.

"Visceral and satisfying." Congratulations on a lovely machine. Sounds like the the To-Do list is short and simple. You found the only place the adjust the fast idle. Cable length and spring rate are the only adjustments. The transmission cries when it's happy. It's emotional. Some people call the Veglia gauges Vaugelia.

I posted this picture elsewhere, but thought I'd add it here as well. If mounting to a LeMans fairing, there is a lot of space between the back of the stock gauge cups and the plastic inner panel. I mounted the oil pressure gauge to the fairing bracket, which is stationary. The tack and speedo arc over the oil pressure gauge (and the volt meter on the left) when the bars move. I can see the upper half of both gauges while riding, but I cannot see the lower/inner portion of either gauge. If the needles are in the hidden regions, I have a problem (overcharging or low oil pressure).

Looking great! The pipes go well with the rest of the bike. And it was a lovely day for a ride in SoCal today... Roads to and from Idyllwild never disappoint. I took a guy from Austria on a loop through there and he said the riding was as good as in the Alps - in part due to the condition of the roads, such as miles of perfectly banked ascending curves on 74 from Banning... daydreaming... We're getting enough SoCal members to hold a V11 rally... and I'm eager to get an in-person look at those pipes from Jet-Hot. I should record my "sawed off" Ti pipes on my LeMans, then compare to the new set after I install. Uploading video would be easy for anyone who knows how to use YouTube - just post the link here.

Thumper - you were the closest to identifying the problem. But after verifying the simple things (such as existence of gaskets), I never imagined that an upper gasket would be installed with a small part missing.

Happy day - oil pressure puzzle is solved. Due to the "magic" of Speedhut's stepper gauges, we can see the RPM and oil pressure readings with the bike off. Now I can finally ENJOY looking at my spendy Speedhut oil pressure guage instead having it constantly remind of an unsolved problem. @Rox and Chuck - you may recall seeing the much lower pressures while riding this bike while it was standing in for the Scura during our "Scura Rally." Also of note: Freshly powder coated fuel door (and lubed internals) Pazzo shorty levers Tomaselli grips (courtesy of parts bike, along with better throttle tube). The extra padding on these grips is nice. Pre-emptive replacement of all 4 rubber intake boots New rear wheel (also courtesy of parts bike due to better paint, bearings, brake rotor and new tire) Irony: On my way home from my 60 mile shake-down, she burped a boot off the RH throttle body. Boy, they run like crap with one boot barely on... I wonder who did such a crappy job installing those boots?

The oil-pressure puzzle is solved. I posted the below in the thread where I originally brought it up, but wanted to "Close-Out" this thread too. A piece of the upper sump gasket was missing. It was one of the two tabs that goes between the housing for the filter and the block - it was metal to metal contact at that point (where the oil was supposed to pass through under pressure. The lack of gasket created a substantial, pressure-robbing, internal leak. After finding that problem and installing a new gasket, I have much higher oil pressure - about 40 PSI at 2,000RPM and holding steady at about 60 PSI under normal riding conditions. Thanks again to everyone in this thread.

...and then real-life got in the way... But today (finally) the pressure puzzle is solved. A piece of the upper sump gasket was missing. It was one of the two tabs that goes between the housing for the filter and the block - it was metal to metal contact at that point (where the oil was supposed to pass through under pressure). The lack of gasket created a substantial, pressure-robbing, internal leak. After finding that problem and installing a new gasket, I have much higher oil pressure - about 40 PSI at 2,000RPM and holding steady at about 60 PSI under normal riding conditions. Thanks again to everyone in this thread.

Have you read The Everything Store? http://www.amazon.com/Everything-Store-Jeff-Bezos-Amazon/dp/0316219282/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1454773145&sr=1-1&keywords=the+everything+store

Ken - in case you haven't done powder-coating before: take some time at the shop and make sure they have masked all the places you don't want coated - and especially that they plug threaded holes. I've missed something every time. Since powder is thicker than paint, it can cause clearance problems - I've had to take some off with files or dremel to get things to fit correctly. It can be challenging to remove powder-coat... (especially if it gets inside threads). So think carefully about any machined surface and what joins to it. Example problem: I had them coat the entire brake lever (which is the aftermarket one from Harpers). The only part I asked them to mask was inside the bushing (where it pivots). But when I reassembled, the lever was binding. The pivot pin is supposed to hit a stop and allow the pedal to move freely. I had added four layers of powder to that junction: porkchop, 2 sides of the lever, and the underside of the pivot pin (the bottom of the head). I had to file the powder off the two surfaces of the lever to get it to move freely.