Scud

Ergos being somewhat a matter of personal preference, I'll just say that I am all-day comfortable on mine. Given the nice stable in your signature, I would definitely choose the LeMans for sport touring. Funny - it seems the three of us who have responded so far all have the Two-V11 sickness. I think it could be contagious....

Oh happy day! Fantastic bike. I ran into the 7,500 mile thing in California with my LeMans - just barely got through it. Details in this thread if you're curious: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&hl= The Moto Guzzi Kit Racing ECU with Titanium exhaust is usually unobtainable, although 6 were recently "discovered" and made available through Harpers. The Ohlins shock is a great upgrade too. You basically have yourself a brand-new bike there - but with some excellent modifications. I found that setting suspension sag for my weight was the most important first step on the suspension.

That is really cool. I don't think there is an equivalent event in the US. I would love to do something like that one day - ride the track and then watch the race. Closest I ever came to something like that was when I volunteered as pit crew for some privateer-racing friends in the Baja 500. I got to pre-run a section on one of the race bikes (ATKs).

I broke a few sub-assemblies into their final components today, including splitting the engine and transmission and getting a look at the dual-plate clutch and flywheel that was one of the main drivers for this project. An observation - just to reinforce what has been stated many times on this forum - there sure appeared to be a lot dry (un-greased) assembly. So many things I took apart had inadequate grease, or none at all: swingarm pivots, shock mount bolts, shifter pivot, driveshaft, I could go on......... The frame has no value to me. But I noticed that these spine-frames are welded together in the center. The back half is in great condition (everything came off easily), and here is a closeup of the damage to the front. It hit so hard that the top and bottom of the steering head went oblong; the head-bearing races just fell out after I got the (bent) steering stem out. If it has value to anyone (perhaps for some type of custom project), I'd gladly send it to you for the cost of shipping. If it's trash, please advise.

I got the torch hooked up and did as GuzziMoto suggested (no discoloration or other paint damage). That worked for all but two bolts (probably the ones I weakened earlier). Drilled out those two as you described (low speed works best). Good practice for future. ROTO-LIBRE. The rotors have been liberated.

The tubed bracket is part of the Ventura rack fitting kit, do I get a prize? You win a "like" and an a beer emoticon: You could also claim a guided V11 tour of San Diego back-country roads as your "prize." Must be present to win... Thanks. That makes sense and I will try it soon - hopefully this evening or at least over the weekend.

How about a little advice on the front wheel? I think the wheel itself is beyond repair. Picture below shows the worst of the damage - the crack is through to the inside of the rim, which is flattened and flared out a bit. There's another gouge on the other side of the rim and some marks from impact all the way into the center channel. The bearings make a little noise. However, Rox wants the rotors (which are excellent and will clean up well) and I want to remove them without discoloring them. Not having removed rotors like these before, here's what I think I know: they are in with the strongest thread-locker known to man. Rox and I already tried leverage and mild heat (heat gun). I later tried an impact driver (the hammer kind). All I get is the allen-wrench stuck in the screw head - which means I am getting close to rounding out the screw head. I'm concerned that a gas torch will permanently discolor the rotors (and that's what a shop would probably do). If the wheel has no value (as I suspect) I suppose I could drill out the screws. I have an air-powered impact wrench, but no impact allen sockets (willing to buy a set). So.... what's a guy to do? How do you get these things off without discoloring the rotors (and for future reference - without destroying the screws)?

They're going quick. If you're thinking about a set, I suggest calling today. I think it's pretty low risk, as you could easily re-sell the set for the same price if you change your mind.

Could somebody please give this Rosso Corsa a home for $4,995? https://www.motointernational.com/catalog/used-motorcycles-and-scooters/used-2003-moto-guzzi-v11-lemans-rosso-corsa-1100

Yeah. Under=appreciated band. Did you notice Docc's Little Feat CD in his picture prior to my post?

Shock is with RoxLemans now, who, incidentally, was also hoping to buy the bike when it was on Craigslist. The Sachs shock was near perfect - hardly even dirty. I listed a different, leftover shock for sale from my 2003 LeMans - that's the one that originally had the shorter spring and has not been treated very well. Subframe is straight, but the small bracket for the rear tank bolt was ripped out - forward. That means something hit the tank with enough force to push it forward and not only rip out the bolt, but also force the tank mount rubber bumper through the gas tank. Ouch. PM sent.

Thanks - good advice. I have looked at a few parts and thought "nobody's going to want this..." nearly binned them, but held onto them anyway. When I worked as a dismantler in a Z-car shop (high-school job), they wanted me to keep everything unless it was crumpled, shattered, or otherwise FUBAR. Almost everything from the front was destroyed beyond repair - for example the forks were bent so badly they won't even move, but still I thought somebody might want the adjusters/caps, which are pristine. I'm not sure how to tell if the triple clamps are good. One of the pinch bolts was actually bent (lower triple clamp), although the bolts came out easy from the top clamp. It's sort of funny - I happened upon a dead BMW RT on Craigslist recently, which I dismantled and am continuing to part out - and now this V11. By comparison, taking the BMW apart was like an autopsy: clinical, impersonal, find out why it died. Taking the V11 apart felt more like hospice care: easing her last days and letting her know nothing would go to waste. This was a tricky disassembly too - the headstock on the frame twisted and nearly severed, so the front wheel's contact patch was about a foot to the right of the bike's center line. I could not use a rear or front wheel stand, because it wouldn't balance securely. I had to hang it from a beam in my garage. My camping trailer smells like motorcycle parts...

Bike is totally disassembled now - except that I have still not split the engine/tranny to extract the flywheel and dual plate clutch (which was one of main reasons for getting this bike in the first place). Her starter found a new home in my '03 LeMans and it cured my hesitant starting issue. The LeMans is going to get some cosmetic upgrades too - including the rear wheel as soon as I burn off the current tire. @Rox - great to meet you today. Thanks again for the help getting the frame off the motor. I'm glad we were able to get you what you need to get your LeMans road-worthy.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. - Charles Caleb Colton

I was thinking about you while I finished dismantling the bike I got for parts. I have a new appreciation for the V11 harness. I can't really see where you would make it much smaller. Other than installing a 30amp MAXI fuse and potentially changing the starter flow, the stock harness seems pretty good to me. To aid the discussion - here's a complete harness - main and front section. Missing from this: regulator, controls/bar switches, side-stand switch.

That cracks me up. I love that the tractor is going the opposite direction too.

By side cover, you mean the porkchop? If so, then no, that stays on. But it's easiest to do with the shock reservoir out of the way - one nut on the back of the porkchop. The long bolt goes through the porkchop, then through the widest part of the shift lever (on which it pivots), then threads into the tab on the frame, then there is another nut on the back side of the threaded tab. To remove the bolt (and lever), you first have to undo the nut on the inboard side of the threaded tab. Docc's picture shows the threaded tab clearly - and the hole in the porkchop where the long bolt was removed. I used waterproof grease - same stuff I use for axle lube.

Tourists here often ask where the Carlsbad Caverns are. "You just go South on the 5 to the 8. Then go East for two days. If you get to Texas, you went too far." Back to wiring - it does seem that you could reduce it a bit -especially if you use smaller connectors - of if you don't worry about making the main harness compatible with a front-end sub harness. What I mean is: just make it one harness without a huge under-tank connector to separate the two sections. Of course, if you eliminate things like side-stand or clutch switches, you don't need anything in-harness to accommodate those. What if relays and fuses were in-line where you need them, instead of in one location under the seat? Would that reduce or increase the amount of wire? But would that also potentially expose them to heat and/or elements? Just for comparison, you should see the wire harness I pulled out of the 2000 BMW R100RT. Amazing - with the emphasis on maze. ABS, power accessories, lots of gauges, connectors for stuff you might add - stereo, etc. The fuse/relay box is as big as the V11 airbox. The V11 wiring looks svelte by comparison. Run a spool of wire down the "rabbit-hole" so you can find your way back out...

There's a long pivot bolt for the shift lever - you mentioned you cleaned the linkage, did you pull that pivot bolt out and lube it while you were there? I found that mine had gotten a bit corroded.

This makes me want a tractor seat, a teardrop tank, ape hangers, straight pipes, and highway pegs.

Have some Jumbo Shrimp at the First Annual, Good Light Beer celebration. Or perhaps you'd prefer a Dry Wine? Same Difference. Sorry, man. Bummer.

Rock & roll, docc... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEOlTZGuLKM

It sounds as though all that "research" to find the appropriate mandrels has really payed off. Maybe you should pour yourself another.

Will do. Thanks, Pete! Would one of you fine gents be so kind as to explain what "closed and ground" means? Is this different than having them balanced?

Yeah, getting into the clutch is a commitment. I don't have any words of wisdom on the clutch internals. But on the lever side of the equation, I assume you've already tried the adjuster on the clutch lever and still can't get it where you like it. I got Pazzo shorty levers that have 7 positions for adjustment. It was easy to find a comfortable position.