Scud

Thanks Noble... I'll do that when I get a little more organized... and after I decide what to keep... and after everybody here has had a chance to get what they want. Since some parts are really hard to find, it just seems right to offer them up here first - to the, shall we say, "enthusiasts" from whom I've learned so much. Meanwhile, let's have a quiz. Does anybody recognize this rear bracket? Perhaps for some type of saddle bags or top case? Moto Guzzi or aftermarket?

Absolutely best in person. Your description reminds me of the first time I saw a Grand Prix race in Long Beach. The speeds, sounds, and smells are intoxicating. When I first moved to Carlsbad, the Carlsbad Raceway was still active, but in decline. There was a time when it was a world class drag strip and motocross track - even making appearances on "ABC's Wide World of Sports." My first house in the area was very close to the strip and I could hear the races every Saturday - and sometimes went to watch. Toward the end it was purely a "run what ya brung" sort of event. Really fun to watch all the hobbyists. http://www.carlsbadraceway.org/Drags.html Now it's a bunch of industrial buildings, stores, etc. As the song goes, they paved paradise and put up a parking lot:

Like this?

I think those are "the usual suspects." Funny that of 600 Rosso Mandellos, 700 Scuras (not aware of an early/late Scura distinction), and fewer than 200 Tennis you mostly hear about problems with the Scuras. BTW - are these three also the only bikes that came with limited edition number plates on the triple clamps? I read somewhere that someone thought the single plate was a good design, but that there may have been a bad batch of flywheels (which cast doubt on the whole concept). OR maybe Scuristi are just more abusive. Whatever the case, the prevailing wisdom seems to be that replacing the flywheel/clutch is good insurance against a potentially catastrophic failure. So... grab yourself a parts bike to go with your number plate.

Rosso Mandello with less than 10,000 miles on e-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-/141793316837?forcerrptr=true&hash=item21038a4fe5&item=141793316837

Glad it worked out well for you. The Speedhut gauge makes the ITI look like the ugly sister, doesn't it? If you decide to the tach and prefer different options (colors, logos, etc), they will rebuild your speedo to match at the same time for a very reasonable price. Get the remote button on the tach too. But there's no reason to mount that one anywhere, just use it once for set up.

It lives!!! I was able to fire it up and let it idle for a minute - no fluid leakage, fire, or other "bad acts." Knowing that it runs makes me feel better about the price - and I can truthfully claim that anything I sell is from a bike that is known to run. It didn't sound very good though, I think the LH exhaust is a bit restricted. My rationalization super-powers have almost justified the purchase price with parts I intend to keep - anchored by the flywheel/clutch components, but recently buttressed by $120 future savings because of the new Metzeler Sportec M3 rear tire (date code 1012). The PO kept notes of service. Two services in 12,000 miles. Sounds right to me. If you want something, shoot me a PM - I'll gladly take lower than "market" prices for members here. Here are a few bits that I think are fairly hard to find, and are in good shape: Airbox and lid Shift lever Rear brake lever Instrument pod cover Rear hugger and end-caps for swing-arm

Not this time, the poor lass is definitely an organ donor. Although it would have been nice to have this on-hand while I was sorting out the 03 LeMans. Would have easily saved me $400 in switches, hardware, and other small bits.

+1 almost exactly. I'd just have to change the R1100S to R1100RT. @ Orson: Is a state-side V11 out of the question? There have been some nice ones for sale recently. Some with hard luggage included.

Rossi - Didn't you just have a problem at high altitude on your recent trip? Why not zip over the Alps again - for "research" purposes?

The Macbook is an accoutrement - in silver to go with Docc's color-matched Sport. @Docc - eager to hear whether the ear-dyno or butt-dyno confirm prior findings. More seriously - I assume the computer is there so you can check/improve the Tank-Off Maintenance Checklist. Thanks again for being the custodian of that.

If you don't mind sharing - about how much did you end up paying for all the parts to do this job? Having just bought a low-mileage, crashed parts-bike with a twin-plate clutch and flywheel, I'm trying to assign a value to the kit.

Well, I'm not sure if this is a "score" or not, but thanks. It was a bit more than I wanted to pay. But the guy claimed he had an offer for $1,000 just for the engine, complete driveline, and electrical (including ECU) - for somebody doing a project. That actually seemed reasonable, so I ponied up a bit more. At a minimum, I'll end up with the parts I want for a decent price. If I sell enough bits to get my money back, then my parts are free. Maybe I can even pocket a little play money out of it. The main driver for me is to have a complete, twin-plate clutch for the Scura - one from a same-year LeMans should swap out without any compatibility problems and I should not have to worry at all about missing parts. But those 2002 silver porkchops are in much better shape (and more attractive) than the dark grey porkchops on the 2003 LeMans (lots of chips in the paint). And I can replace all the bolts the PO rounded off.... Oh what fun.... but first I probably need to fill a couple trash cans with the mangled bits. PMs sent re above parts. Question: Is there any value in a gas tank that's been punctured? For example, there's been a lot of talk about fabricating aluminum tanks. I would be happy to donate this tank to a fabricator as a sample if somebody can make the connection.

I can confirm that the helmet lock is in excellent condition. I just got the bike for parts.

I posted the ad for this bike on our Craigslist thread recently. Then I went and got it. This one has 12,000 miles on it and does appear to have been well-cared for and unmodified (manuals all wrapped in plastic with some paperwork in the tail). It's just dirty and the engine paint is peeling. But it didn't crash well, the front end is a total loss and the steering head started to separate from the bent spine frame. The impact jammed the tank holder through the inside of the tank - this one could have ended in a fireball. The bike impacted on both sides - and amazingly the heads both look good. The stock head guards held on the left, but ripped off on the right. Both spark plugs are bent - which again demonstrates the value of the larger, aftermarket guards. Incredibly, given the front end damage, the gauges and all related parts are still perfect. The battery took a charge and the engine cranks easily. Tranny goes through all the gears smoothly (on stand rotating by hand with plugs out). I paid $1,400. I figure the flywheel and clutch are worth about $650 to me (If I don't get the RAM unit to replace the single-plate on the Scura). I want a few other bits and I am concerned about the starter and oil pump on my LeMans - or maybe I have a worse problem with a worn engine and might want some other internals. I was curious about the cause of the crash and the guy I got it from didn't know (he won it auction in Indiana and had it delivered to California). However, I noticed a brand new rear tire - like no signs of wear. The front has some nasty, old, cracked tire and the rim is bent - so I assume the new front tire was damaged in the crash. A likely explanation is trying to corner without getting the new tires scrubbed in - a good reminder. It's going to be a little while till I start ripping into it, but if you have a need for something let me know. I'll place a proper classified ad later when I figure what I want to keep and what I want to sell. Docc's first on the list for flywheel and clutch if I don't need it. I know seat cowls are hard to come by - and so are carbon-fiber dash panels, stock fenders, airboxes, ECUs, foot levers, etc. Happy to let you guys have first shot at this bike before I go to e-bay.

Do you mean the wires on the oil pressure sender? I think they are already coming out of a blob of something. Reservoirs: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18967&page=4

There are a bunch of options that I don't use, such as. 0-60 time - who cares? Top speed - I'd rather not have that recorded, thank-you. I think I did see altitude on one of the screens. Interesting, but I know the approximate altitude most of the time anyway. I just thought GPS was kind of cool - and it saved me from doing one additional task of figuring out the local signal (as you did). I leave it on the same screen all the time - the only thing I care about is how many total miles and how many miles since my last fill-up. @Chamberlin - I'm going to make it to Oro Valley one day and you will be morally obligated to put some miles on that V11.

...and I hope you post pics and let us "watch" while you're doing it. I really had to fight my LeMans' wiring harness to get all the stock parts back on - and the aftermarket gauges installed. If you can get to 15% less bulky, incorporate your modifications, and eliminate the few known flaws - it seems a worthy winter workshop activity.

I'm not sure what Chamberlin did, but I didn't bother to connect to constant voltage. I left that wire unconnected. The only time this bothers me is if I turn the key off and back on again quickly. For example, if I get gas, I cannot reset the trip-odometer until the GPS signal has been locked on again. However, my workaround is just to reset the trip odometer before I turn the bike off at the gas station. Otherwise it takes maybe 10-30 seconds to lock the signal on again - and the speedometer does not register speed until it locks the signal. So, it's not a big deal, but If I were to do it over again (or have reason to be in there again), I would take the time to connect it. You can probably tap into a hot wire that leads to the ignition switch.

I think the LEFT (assuming seated on bike) nipple drains water out from the fuel filler - from rain, washing, etc. The RIGHT is to let air back into the tank as the fuel is used (thus preventing vapor-lock and tank-suck). From what I can gather, the RH had a hose only in North America (to comply with California's rules and make the bikes "50-state" compliant). Most people in Europe said they never had anything connected there from the start. In the US, the hose from the RH went to the evaporation canister (also not available in Europe). These canisters were so fragilely mounted on my bikes that they both fell off... As for solvent, what would you use? Throttle body cleaner maybe? I assume it should be something that you'd be willing to run through the fuel system.

Enjoyed two sets of live blues last night at Blue Chicago. http://www.bluechicago.com/default.aspx If you ever get to Chicago (which I do 1-2 times a year) check this place out. It's the real deal.

A little known feature of the Öhlins components is that they provide a Scandinavian, subarctic wind while riding. Here's another photo of the start in Pasadena: This was better than most of the bikes shows I've been to. Two S&S powered Morgans, vintage sidecars, 1930s BMWs, 1970s Nortons, Royal Enfields, etc.........

I assume that's me too - but haven't checked in for a while. When I ordered he said he had recently shipped out 2 units. If I had my name in back then, I would have one in hand now. Anybody who actually wants one of these RAM units should place an order with MG Cycle - if they have a few backorders, it could spur another production run. Sneaking up on 8,000 miles on the Scura - it should go to 12,000. Meanwhile, I'm putting more miles on the LeMans. One of it's possible futures is as an organ-donor.

What is this "winter project" concept? I got a used harness a while back too, let me know if you need duplicate connectors or something. I can imagine the wiring got messy with all the add-ons. I am still not 100% satisfied with the wiring behind my fairing - due to adding the 4 Speedhut gauges. More zip ties and electrical tape than I care for - but it's mostly invisible behind the LeMans fairing. Buddy of mine just rewired an early Ford Bronco. He got a spool of heat shrink tubing somewhere. I think one of the keys to getting it right was to layout all the wires, then zip tie where he wanted the sleeves to start/stop, then thread everything through, shrink it, and finally remove the zip ties.