Scud

FYI: The Penske 8900E can be fitted to a V11. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/penske-racing-monoshocks-8900e/ Backstory - Todd at Guzzitech was busy moving shop and his website said 8900E was only for CARC. I called Penske directly, they said 8900E would not fit the V11. Then Todd called Penske and they figured out that it can be fitted. So... Guzzitech site now lists 8900E as an option for us. Too late for me, since I already placed my order for the Hyperpro. Had I known in time, and for about the same price, I think I would have gone with the Penske.

I had to Google it - because I just had to know what else 11-pointers might like. Apparently, they like does, as in female deer. An "11-pointer" is a big, old, male deer. I suppose that reference in the article is meant to call the V11 Sport an old-timers bike.

Good idea adding stats about the rider. I am 6'0" and wear a 34" sleeve shirt - a 2" bar riser on your bike probably puts us at about the same angle. The PO managed to re-route the stock cables and hoses on mine - and nothing hit the fairing. However, the throttle cable was too tight, got a kink and needs replacing. So if you do this, check all your cables and hoses at full steering lock in both directions. I wore gel-padded bike shorts on a recent 550-mile one-day ride from San Diego to San Jose (mostly twisty roads). My butt was buzzin' when I got on the slab between Monterey and Santa Cruz... comfy the previous 400+ miles.

Fun article, thanks. "The trick is to get your gear changing and braking done before the corner." That's exactly what I thought till I set my suspension sag correctly. "...could be just the machine for the eleven-pointers amongst us." What the heck is an eleven-pointer? Can I be one? This is just the machine for me. What else do eleven-pointers like that I should know about? "...near painful vibes..." Ya big sissy. (ow, it nearly hurt... boo-hoo) "...gaze over yer pint at its glossy green paint and sculpted tank." Refreshing. By that I mean the pint and the prose. I don't think the lawyers let us print sentences like that in the US. Could be interpreted as suggesting that we get drunk and go riding, and open up a class-action lawsuit... Technical question: Did the Marzocchi's ever have both compression and rebound adjustment? IIRC my 2003 manual also mentions that feature, but I think both adjusters are only for rebound.

My LeMans had the bars raised and pulled back, and the footpegs lower and forward, just as you are considering. I took it all off and went back to stock (they were all homemade and not in good condition, so I threw them out - otherwise I would offer them to you). I will say, though, that they worked well and were comfortable for upright, around town use. This may not help at all, but yesterday I did about a 40 mile stretch of freeway and found myself wondering about rearset pegs so I could stay tucked in longer in the quiet air behind the fairing. Raised bars and forward pegs would make that much more difficult, and IMO, take away some of the benefit of the LeMans fairing. But a smaller raise, like on Leon's bike seems reasonable. How about some cheap advice? Try some padded bicycle shorts on your next long ride before you invest in a new seat.

Jet - I hope you get it sorted how you like it. I like the ball on the RH mirror perch because I use a small, handheld GPS (Garmin 60 series) on both dirt and street bikes. The RAM ball and various arms can also mount your phone, video camera, cupholder, etc... so think about all the stuff you might want to use. Mirror mount is also the cheapest and easiest way to get started. I've never had a problem with RAM mounts on a street bike. Only dislodged the GPS from the cradle once on the dirt bike - and that had something to do with a boulder under a snowdrift and riding too fast for the conditions...

Well - it seems like I finally got it to settle in to a nice state of tune today. I ran a couple tanks with Lucas upper cylinder lubricant with injector cleaners. The fuel additive alone did not appear to make any difference; I still had hiccups at hot idle and at about 3,000 RPM. But I figured that since the throttle bodies were dirty, it'd be worth running some cleaner through. Today, I went through the balancing part of the tuning procedure again (with the additive still in the tank). However, this time I also made sure it was good and hot, took a little more time with the balance knob at a few different RPMs (guessed due to no tach at the moment), balanced to a lower idle speed with the bleed screws only open a little - about 1/2 turn. I had previously balanced with the air bleed screws about 1.5 turns open, which gave me a higher idle speed (and I think a leaner mixture at idle). I edited my tuning procedure (above post) to record what seems to be working better. Still no success with GuzziDiag. I am on my second cable and got the one with the FTDI chip (even took it apart to verify). I'm still curious to see whether I am running a factory or modified map, what my CO settings are, etc. but now that it seems to be running well, it's no longer urgent. FYI - There's a detailed GuzziDiag tutorial over on WildGuzzi. I apparently still have some more to learn...

Ummmm.... is that a Vincent Black Shadow with a tank bag on it in the first picture (behind the Panther)?

Jetdoc - I have a spare wiring harness for parts. If you can post a picture of the part you want, maybe I will be able to find and remove it from the harness for you. The harness is from a 2003 bike which would have had ITI gauges. What year is your bike?

Correct - pre-shortened by PO and I like the look and sound. I've been saving a link to this thread in case I get motivated to disassemble and try to improve the appearance of the exhaust: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13524 Maybe that will help. Best advice is on the second page.

Thanks JB. FYI - EPM is offering a spring special for about another week. It's not advertised, but over the phone, they told me it's $50 off the $619 regular price, along with a coupon for a free rebuild (which normally costs $279). +$10 black spring + shipping. Smoother roads ahead... The pound has strengthened against the dollar a bit recently. Might be worth a call.

@JB I've been looking at the Hyperpro 460 myself, glad to hear you are so pleased with it. Where did you buy yours in the US? @Stew and Paso: Bummer on the sudden failure after you had the decency to compliment your bike in public. Where are her manners? However, it's cool to see the generosity. The Sheffield Brotherhood of the Traveling Sachs.

I just spoke with someone at MG Cycle and placed an order for the complete RAM single plate clutch and flywheel assembly: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=2986 Apparently, they get these sporadically and fill orders as received (I'm first on the list as of today). They received and sold one earlier this month, but are not sure when they will get more. He said he uses this clutch in 2 personal bikes and that they have lasted over 40,000 miles. He also said they keep improving the quality of the materials and there has been a recent upgrade to the friction plate. I didn't understand all the details, but he said the clutch plate has a lot more material than the stock Tenni/Scura unit. Here's the "benefit list" from the website: 1. Reduction of polar inertia moment (flywheel effect) which allows better engine acceleration especially from low rpm. 2. Reduction of the dragging effect of the engine (reverse torque) after release of the throttle. 3. Reduction of vibration thanks to perfect balancing of the entire assembly which is not possible with the original clutch. 4. Reduced hand lever pressure resulting in less hand fatigue. 5. Increased precision and rapidity of clutch engagement and disengagement. 6. More progressive clutch engagement. 7. Increased ability to transmit higher torque and horsepower. 8. Lower wear of the clutch disk with reduced maintenance. 9. Fewer parts (no intermediate plate, no second friction plate) subject to wear. 10. Ease of assembly, gearbox can be fitted to engine without centering of the clutch disk. Kits are complete as shown including: flywheel, new deep spline clutch hub, friction plate, spring plate, pressure plate, and flywheel bolts.

That is a gorgeous Nero. I'll add my Red LeMans to the registry: Per earlier posts, I was thinking about production numbers for the LeMans and I wonder if these bikes might be more rare than some of the "limited" editions. According to Wikipedia, Moto Guzzi made about 5,000 motorcycles per year while the V11s were in the lineup. Let's assume, for arguments' sake, that the V11 represented about 40% of all production, or about 2,000 V11s per year. Take out some known figures on any given year, for example about 700 Scuras and about 200 Tennis in 2002, and you've got 1,100 units of production to assign to 5 or 6 other model/color variants. Maybe a range of 100-400 units for each model/color variant would be a good assumption.

Fun times... degrease and discover... And I believe you, by the way. There was a huge difference in the discovery phases between wrenching on my previously untouched Scura and my multiple-previous-owner LeMans. Don't you have the Napoleon bar-end mirrors on your Sport? If you have not seen the stock bar-ends before then you might not realize that you have not removed the weight yet; the end-caps weigh nothing compared to what's inside the bars. That nut threads into the bars, and there is a tubular, rubber-insulated weight that goes in about 4 inches. It's a pretty effective vibration damper.

Well, "better" is so subjective and personal. Therefore, the answer is, "Yes, the V11 is better." I'd also suggest that the Cafe Sport is a superior rider's motorcycle compared to the Tenni, and at a lower price. Better suspension, clutch, and some other improvements that started in 2003. You never had a Guzzi before. Now you want one. What's so hard about that? http://www.veldhorst.nl/downloads/wp-e800x600.jpg

That looks like a stock threaded handlebar weight. Did it have another part or two on it? Mine have a small bar that goes across and receives the nut for the end-cap. If it is the same thing, it should come out counter-clockwise. I think a good soak in your favorite fluid, followed by more leverage will probably do the trick. Do you have a 6-point socket or wrench to prevent more rounding off? That is such a great color...

Good idea to ride it a while and see how everything is working - and again after your next generation brackets - and finally paint. Little changes can make a big difference to fit and finish. But I think you already know that - so I am simply curious to see what you've done so far. As for pics - Yoda says "There is no try, only do." (can this guy be Yoda today?)

Yes, I will get some threaded stock and nuts ASAP. I'll make studs next time it's off, or when I feel like it, whichever comes first. The oil pan does not even have to be removed to put the studs in. This is a clever and effective solution... and did I mention it's also a time and money-saving solution? Thanks again.

Passed this sign today... thought I'd grab a photo. Warning for 74 miles...

I already got it back together with new fasteners and anti-seize, and it seems to be holding (225 miles this morning). I am still concerned about the durability of the two that I tapped - the tap took a lot of material out of the worst of those. This is excellent advice about making studs, thanks. Now I know I don't have to be on the lookout for a used part. As for aesthetics, the oil-pan bolt heads are all hidden by the chin spoiler, so I can't see them anyway - but look at that "Roper-line."

JB - I had the plate on my desk for a while, waiting for the oil change, which seemed like the most convenient time to install it. I don't launch hard or do wheelies, but I have been to known to grab a handful of throttle on the way up a mountain. For where we live, that's what convinced me to put the plate in. It's easy to imagine sucking air into the oil pump during a fast, steep, uphill right-hander. The upper sump came out easily for me (and the instructions I linked to in my first post were invaluable), but some bolts had a rubbery adhesive on them that needed to be removed. I used all new gaskets as recommended, but the gaskets I removed were in great shape. Never seen the oil light flicker either, but I've ridden with some damn fast grandpas...

All buttoned up and WOT tested. Here's a photo showing how much more room there is for oil in my bike (dipstick screwed in). I'm pretty sure all the oil drained out when I put the plate in, because all the lines had to be disconnected. I added 3.5 litres and ran it a while. The oil level is about at the full mark - so I could easily run with 4 litres or more. Basically, the original full mark becomes the new low-oil mark. More oil, less worries. Having done the project, I finally understand what has already been explained many times: Technically here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13096 And with some extra flavor here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14318&hl=%2Bdipstick+%2Broper+%2Bplate Wow, there's a been a lot of discussion about this plate in past... Thanks again to Pete for a good product.

You could take a look at the Moto Guzzi 1200 Sport, I think the black and white ones are gorgeous. Ducatis with the 1000DS motor are relatively less expensive to maintain than some of the higher-tech motors. KTM Super Duke is another nice option in the big-twin sporting department. I've had a couple BMWs (too pedestrian...) and some other big twins, including the Ducati Sport 1000 (uncomfortable for long rides...). The V11 is, at least for me, my favorite bike of all time. I've been thinking "why did I wait so long to get a Moto Guzzi?" It ticks all the boxes for me. Have fun deciding.

Thanks. I tapped them and it seems like it will be alright. I get really nervous about stripped or weakened things that hold the oil in the bike... In other news, I can report that Nobleswood's ex-boots are waterproof.