Scud

Those are Guzzi's factory-aftermarket exhaust/pillion peg brackets to go with the Titanium exhaust; they are correctly mounted. Exhaust cans were also part of the factory Titanium Kit Racing accessory, along with a new ECU. I didn't get the original hangers, exhaust, or ECU. This kit mounts the pipes higher and tighter than stock, which looks cool but makes it impossible to mount standard luggage racks. I think that's why the PO disassembled the cans and shortened them (he used some soft luggage). Now they have the same good-looking angle, but they don't go so close to the turn signals. Anyway, they sound great, but they're not in great shape cosmetically, so I'm going to run them for a while and decide later. The stock crossover is good enough for me - though lots of other people like aftermarket crossovers.

It's not going to make it back together this weekend. But here's some progress and/or lessons learned: Valve Adjustment I just did the quickest and easiest valve adjustment of any vehicle I've ever owned, thanks for the how-to thread. Left was correct, right intake was too tight, right exhaust too loose (using .004 and .006 inch for Intake and Exhaust). While I was there, I installed new plugs, plug caps, head guards (from Harper's with stainless bolts included), and new exhaust flange nuts and washers - no rust allowed! Should have had some valve cover gaskets on hand. Title and registration I finally got it registered today and got a license plate. It was previously registered in Florida (although originally sold in CA and probably never even left the state). But having out-of-state paperwork means more rules. One of which is that a used vehicle must have over 7,500 miles on it or be treated like a new vehicle (PITA). Given that the odometer stopped working around 5,000, my Speedhut odometer arrived with the "corrected" actual mileage (over 7,500) and today I was able to show everything that facilitated box checking and form filling... (good thing the PO left all the Federally required stickers on too). Shift lever Learned a few things about this. First, a crash that's strong enough to break the shift lever is also strong enough to bend the pivot bolt and the tab on the frame that the pivot bolt goes into. Once I finally figured that out, got a straight bolt, and straightened the tab, everything went together perfectly (with the welded shift lever) and it shifts well (at least on the stand). The other thing is that shift levers are not interchangeable between early and late V11s. A member here sold me his spare from a bike built in 2000, but it is wider than the one that came off the bike. I'm awaiting one of Harper's aftermarket billet levers now. I have to also say - Harper's has been fantastic. A guy stayed on the phone with me while I went through a long list of little brackets, bolts, fittings, etc. In addition to a few bigger items (head guards, new kickstand, etc) I got bags and bags of little parts - all clearly labeled with the part numbers so I could sort them out into related mini-project piles - such as fairing, starter cover, and shock reservoir mount. Their online parts diagram/catalog is incredibly useful - and some of the prices for the little brackets and such are surprisingly low.

Thanks for this thread. The suggestion to use the yellow wire from a dash light for power was super-helpful. The ITI lights each have a pair of yellow (switched power) and black (ground) wires, so I used the two pairs from the speedo side to hook up: The supplied inline fuse (3 amp) to their multi-plug mini-harness (and ground) for switched power to the gauges The supplied tiny inverter (and ground) to power the gauge lights (through their multi-plug mini-harness) I'll be powering and lighting four gauges from these mini-harnesses. GPS Speedo (already powered up and locked a GPS signal) Tach (already powered up) Oil Pressure (not connected yet) Voltage (not connected yet) The oil pressure gauge looks pretty straightforward and comes with a pressure sending unit. I needed to get a 1/8 NPT female to Metric 12x1.5 male adapter so it would fit where the stock oil pressure switch goes. The supplied sending unit is quite large, so I will probably get some 1/8 NPT threaded braided line and relocate it inconspicuously. Based on previous posts, I see that I should connect the green and yellow wire from the tach to the yellow (with black stripe) wire from the plug-in tach connector on the original harness. (You guys are making this easy for me). Some questions: Voltmeter - is there a wire in the dash that I can use? If yes, which one? and if no, where should I connect the feed for the voltmeter? (the Speedhut instructions just say "...volt source to be measured.") Leftovers - after I snip off the two remaining ITI gauge lights and stock tach plug (in hand in photo) is it best to just wrap the ends in tape - or should I join all three blacks and the two yellows from the lights? (I realize this is an Electronics 101 question - and that's about my level). BTW - the wire nuts are just there temporarily. I'll solder and wrap it all properly once everything is connected and working.

Working on getting the Speedhut gauges installed. The thread "Installing Speedhut Gauges" is useful. I hope to rig up something to mount the oil pressure and voltage gauges either from the fairing bracket (as currently taped on) or on the large plastic panel inside the fairing. For now, just trying to make sure they all work correctly. So far, I got them to power up, light up, and acquire a GPS signal. ...and something must be done about those fluid tanks and blue hoses...

Are these drawings available on the site somewhere? I searched a bit could not find them. Thanks. I downloaded the workshop manual already. When you said factory drawings, I assumed it was something else.

Are these drawings available on the site somewhere? I searched a bit could not find them.

I happen to have the tank off right now. I measured 124mm from spine to base of LH rocker cover, and 133mm from spine to base of RH rocker cover - the same 9mm difference that Docc mentioned. The V11 "hangs to the right." But it's only offset from center by half of 9mm (4.5mm). Not sure what to do with this information, but at least we saved Craig from trying to straighten his out. What a bunch of geeky motorheads we are.

Which way does yours tilt? I have to fix this, now that I have noticed, it will drive me nuts. The asymmetry is in the engine, not the tank. The RH cylinder is forward of the LH cylinder. This is because the connecting rods cannot meet at exactly the same spot on the crankshaft. Therefore the RH rocker cover is more forward and is more exposed than the LH. No fixing this... just enjoy it. That being said, you could still have issues with hose or wire routing. The emissions hoses can be relocated to a box of spare parts (or replaced with simple vacuum lines). I've been having a hard time getting my airbox to sit correctly because of all the hoses and wires that run underneath. This could possibly tilt your tank.

I just received and installed a set of short Pazzo levers from MotoMummy.com (on sale for $149 and free shipping). MotoMummy would not advise me or show me pictures of the levers due to "liability reasons." But I decided to give it a go anyway and pretended that I had a 1998 Ducati 748 (always liked those...). The Pazzo part numbers are DB-12 (Brake) and DC-12 (clutch). The order came with a list that specified 10 different Ducatis that they fit. I edited the list from the above post to match the information I received. Monster M400: 1999-2003 Monster M600: 1994-2001 Monster M 620: 2002 Monster M750/M750IE: 1994-2002 Monster M900: 1994-99 900SS: 1991-97 748: up to 1998 916/916SPS: up to 1998 ST2: 1998-03 ST4/S/ABS: 1999-02 Several other Ducatis use the same clutch lever, but a different brake lever. I only listed the bikes that show both levers the same as what I installed. Here are the short Pazzos next to the stock levers. The contact points are exactly the same. They work fine and they make correct contact with the clutch and brake switches. I adjusted the actuator-screws so they stuck out the same distance as the stock levers. And here's a pic of one lever installed. Not even a remote possibility of interference with the bar-end mirrors. Happy hunting for cheap used replacements or shiny aftermarket levers. Duc Duc Goose.

As a fan of the blues, I enjoy sharing original songs that predate more popular rock and roll versions For example, refresh your memory with Bring it On Home by Led Zeppelin: Then listen to this by Sonny Boy Williamson:

Got the steering damper mounted properly - thanks again Docc for the alert to the Shindy damper and the photos of how you mounted it. It's smooth as silk (but obviously I haven't road-tested it yet). My electricity lessons continue - ran a battery tender cable to inside the fairing (with lap solder and heat shrink). Don't know why I started using crimp-on connections a while back, soldering is sooooo much better. Put the battery back in, along with all lights (except for front turn signals, which are fairing-mounted.) The big moment - everything actually worked. That means I didn't screw up the 30 amp fuse or the replacement fuse block. Whew.... relief. The PO had rigged some rusty brackets to attach the taillight and license plate to the stock subframe bracket - and no turn signals or plate light. The rust from the brackets had spread to the (now powder coated) stock bracket. Here's how the tail section turned out. I shortened the stock fender, blacked out the taillight base and some fasteners, and tinted the lenses (2 coats on the signals and 1 coat on the taillight). After seeing this, I might have to go a shade darker on the Scura I'm hoping for a few deliveries this week.

Hmm... so many opinions. And thanks for commenting - brakes are important and I want to do the work right. I was about to use brake cleaner when a trusted person suggested I use WD-40 instead. This person does all his own maintenance and his vehicles, including motorcycles, are always in great condition. He said brake cleaner damages the seals. FWIW - I also dried them with compressed air so as to not leave any extra WD-40 sitting around. My main concern was to be sure the WD-40 never came in anywhere near the pads. So - do you think should I pop 'em off again and reclean with brake cleaner, then lube with silicon spray? FYI - I did get the pistons all moving freely, but not at exactly the same pace. On the front calipers with 2 pistons clamped, when I pushed one piston in the other went out. I figured that was pretty free.

Glad you're enjoying the story. Next installment: She's cleaned up quite well. Simple Green and Silicon Spray did wonders to the bike - the engine and wheels were the worst - kind of chalky. Naval Jelly also does a fantastic job of getting rid of light surface rust (like on the exhaust studs and a few other spots.) And WD-40 is a great solvent to clean brake calipers (take the pads out first). Got all the powdercoated bits back on (you can see sidestand, fairing bracket, and dash in the above pic). Reset forks to stock height (PO had raised forks above clamps to lower the bike) Reinstalled exhaust (so much easier without the crossover). Adjusted all suspension settings to factory specs (they were way off, the forks weren't even set the same as each other) Tried to install Shindy steering damper - the Bitubo had a sticky spot in the middle. I need to go get more spacers, washers, bolts, etc to do it correctly. This thread re the steering damper is very helpful. Went for a sunset ride on the Scura as a reward (she's been very helpful recently - even better than a parts diagram). Here's a tip for anybody who finds the helmet lock unattractive, but doesn't want to cut the tab off the frame. Grind the things that look like rivets flat (they're actually screws), then use a small triangular file to put some slots in the rivets, then take it off with a screwdriver.

Starting to get to the fun parts now. Picked up my first round of powdercoated parts. Flat black for making some things disappear and for protection and easier cleaning on other parts that were already black but with poor quality paint, or showing some wear/weathering (there was a little rust on the battery tray). Put the sidestand and dash on last night... now the dash looks better than the triple clamp... FYI - I used QuickSteel to fill in a few imperfections before powdercoating (it can handle the heat). There are two kinds - a two-part putty in a tube and a premixed paste in a canister. I tried the paste, but will use the putty next time, because it goes on smoother and is easier to sand, the paste is more gritty. Buying a bike with an uncertain past and a broken odometer carries some risks. Some things I've found made me wonder if the bike had more miles on it that claimed - then other things (like an old date code on the front tire) support the low mileage. They just weren't easy miles - and the bike was not always garaged. Hoping to have it back together functionally, balance of fluids replaced, and re-tuned by next weekend. Then ride it a bit while I ponder other promising possibilities, perhaps paint?

I sent inquiries to various retailers, who will not advise regarding cross-compatibility (liability reasons). So I did some searching, and the Brembo front brake and clutch master cylinders are common to other bikes. If you search for a 1998 Ducati 748, or 1995 Ducati 900SS, you'll see that they are the same master cylinders and levers. Pazzo racing has pictures of the correct levers on the Ducatis. Pazzo's part numbers are DB-12 (brake) and DC-12 (clutch). I ordered a set of black shorties for the Scura from MotoMummy on sale for $150. The LeMans will get the Scura's take-offs. This compatibility puzzle was also solved in this thread, which lists a whole bunch of Ducatis.

More going-through stuff over the last week or so: Removed pods, cleaned throttle bodies, and fitted factory airbox (sans snorkels). Reinstalled (straightened) stock bars, raided the Scura take-off-box for the bar-end weights. Lubed throttle and high-idle cables. Rerouted hydraulic lines, cables and wires. The PO did some "cheats" to use the stock-length cables and lines with raised bars. Removed and cleaned front wheel, cleaned brake calipers, checked bearings, etc. All is well. Verified that new gauges should arrive next week, as will my box of goodies from Harper's. My batch of black powdercoated bits should be ready later this week. Picked up the cross-overless pipes from the welder.

I don't know part numbers. But I was able to buy a "parts only" wire loom from a Ballabio for US$15 on eBay. I've been taking little bits off it to repair/replace some things on my LeMans. Perhaps you could find a similar loom there. Then you can splice new bits where you've had damage. Have you considered a new voltage regulator - one that comes with the plugs you need? Regarding the bracket, you can use QuickSteel, a two-part epoxy putty. The repair will be a little more bulky than a weld, but it's strong - and it will get you back on the road more quickly. You can always take it apart and have it welded later.

Those both look to be '02 repaints. I like the red tail sections on both, also like the white stripe (but I think narrower would be even better). The red pinstripes on the wheels are cool - I assume it's the reflective tape, which is good for safety. Red (or eliminated) airscoops are nice. The "naked" stock airbox looks tough; I have not seen that treatment before, but I also like the red side panels. Thinking that wheels, alternator cover, rocker covers, porkchops, and levers and some other parts might all end up at the powdercoater at the same time. Plenty of functional stuff still to do before playtime though. Not sure how it will end up... just having some fun imagining along the way.

Mis-owned. That's a good one. Y'know what's a bad combination? Pods and no rear fender - the rear tire throws junk in the general direction of the air filters. Pods are coming off - stock airbox going back on. All fixable... I am now intimately familiar with the fuse block, having just swapped the broken one with a perfect one from a spare harness. The mount screws go through two threaded parts - the little brass squares in the fuse block and the silver inserts that go into the grommets. And I must say - swapping the fuse box is a rather intricate piece of work, a task that probably should be avoided, but all part of my self-induced electrical education. While I was at it, I added the 30amp fuse (per above-referenced electrics overhaul thread) and put in 5-pin Omron relays. I've got a little more electrical work to do. The project's in a "holding pattern" till I get a care package from Harper's and my box of parts back from the powder coater. Meanwhile, I am enamored of various features of these two bikes: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&album=160 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=810

You have a red one, now you need a black one. Or maybe it's not really for you, it's for when your friends visit - a "guest bike." Of course, you'll have to keep it in good order and ride it a lot to be sure it's ready for them.

In addition to previous suggestions, you could probably get in there with a sanding flap wheel on a flexible shaft (electric motor), or a sanding sponge on a stick (manual).

Thanks - I just did the search as you recommended. In doing so, I happened upon another thread on this forum, which is worth reading. It's about the failure of the Caswell system - but with some ideas about making sure it does work. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16928

I see one more bridge at the Southern end of that. Seven Bridges Road by The Eagles:

Got the 30 amp Maxi fuse in today - and my fuse box looks like a hockey player's smile (missing tooth). I zipped the Maxi holder to the subframe rail so it can hang out in the large space inside the tail section (like the flasher relay does on the other side.) I noticed that these 30 amp Maxi fuses are rated up to 32 volts - so I guess this is not far off from simply soldering the wires together and bypassing the fuse. @Docc - thanks for the tip on the lap soldering. I also got the good heat shrink tubing with 3:1 shrink ratio and the adhesive.

Sometimes the fun starts with a destination and a map. @Docc - I see a surfboard and a chest protector (among all sorts of other garage stuff). Do you surf? And I saw part of dirt bike in another picture recently. What's the story there?