Scud

Oh - that looks like only a paint problem. The fairing on mine had been ground flat in that spot, (but on left so maybe I have a good RH mirror). I sold the fairing to somebody who wanted to paint it to match a greenie.

That looks like a worthy project. If engine paint isn't bubbling now, it was probably redone by Moto Guzzi. The oil on the final drive is likely due to over-filling. From the pics, I'd guess the breather vent is the source of the mess. Those foot-forward, highway pegs? Wow. Personally, I'd remove those immediately. If you decide to freshen it up, I have a lot of stuff from a Champagne LeMans that I ended up stripping. The frame plates and rockers covers look fabulous in candy-apple red next to the champagne paint. If the fairing damage is more than you want to deal with, you could convert to a sport headlight with or without a flyscreen.

OEM Part Name: Fuel door gasket (outer between ring and tank) Moto Guzzi Part Number: 01101700 Replacement Part Brand or Source: Aprilia Part number or other identifier: AP8120893 Differences from OEM (if any): none - same part

I would love to get back to the Alps. I had the opportunity once and made these videos. I was riding a BMW GS, so I thought it appropriate to use Scorpions songs instead of the GS sounds.

Setting sag correctly (assuming you have the right springs) makes a big difference. Now that it's set, you may as well ride the hell out of it till it sells. I recommend highway 33 out of Ojai... Best wishes for sorting out the other issues.

Why have you decided to sell it?

For powder-coating the rear wheel, do we remove the large sleeve? Bearings and inner spacer are out. The sleeve has a big spring clamp on the other side, which I removed, but the large sleeve seems to have been pressed in. The parts diagram shows it as a separate part, but the shop manual does not show how to remove it.

Wow - it looks perfect and all original. It should make somebody very happy.

FYI - I just pulled the bulb out of the headlight of my 2004 V11, and I found the spacer installed inside the bucket, exactly as you described.

I think I can help. PM sent.

It's one of many things I had powder coated for a previous project that have come in handy on this one instead. Same with the top triple clamp.

...and here's another weird one. The fuel door ring was cracked. Never seen that before. But it looks better in black anyway. It's a little tricky to get the thing properly seated and aligned, and I suppose you could crack it by tightening one of the four bolts that actually does something before fully seating it. (3 of the top bolts are just for looks). Maybe it could have gotten cracked with some extreme force backward against the open fuel door.

Yeah - everything was loose in that photo. All snugged up now.

Good info. BSANUT already replied to me and said "I know for sure they don't make kits for 16 mm Master cylinders anymore." So that's a bummer. And he doesn't have 12 mm kits in stock. For the record: Front brake takes 16mm. Clutch 12mm. Rear brake 11mm. So maybe I should disassemble my spare masters and keep the springs and other bits with the rest of my unobtainium.

I just added the remote clutch bleeder hose to the Encyclopedia. Here's a link:

You can replace your damn-near impossible to operate clutch bleeder with a remote hose from a CARC bike. OEM Part Name: Clutch Bleeder Moto Guzzi Part Number: who cares? throw it away. Replacement Part Brand or Source: Moto Guzzi Part number or other identifier: 05606630 - Referred to as Float Chamber Clutch Pipe on Harpers Parts Diagrams Differences from OEM (if any): You can actually reach it and you can bleed the clutch by yourself, while standing up. Other Compatible Vehicles: Stelvio and Griso (probably others) In this picture, you can see the new line aimed to the left of the clutch cylinder. The line is draped over the frame temporarily, but you can see the bleeder valve - just takes two wrenches. Final routing - I passed it under the frame rail and followed the starter cable up toward the battery. It terminates close to the battery. BTW - you don't have to remove swingarm to install this, but removing at least the rear wheel make it an easy installation.

No - that one uses the four treaded fittings on the swingarm, same as the stock one - so it has those four long CF "legs". The Ghezzi Brian one comes with a bracket that mounts with the lower shock-mount bolt. After installation, it looks like it's just floating over the tire. Here is a close-up of the bracket and how it mounts to the lower shock-bolt: Here is the fender from the side: And as luck would have it... the Nero came with the other type of fender. It was beat up (deeply gouged and some chunks taken out). Trash hadn't gone out yet, so I was able to lay it over the top of the installed GB fender for this photo. Surprisingly, you could mount that fender without removing the GB one (you can see it peeking out in a few spots). And if you look carefully, you can see the GB bracket too.)

Tons of detail on changes by year, so it depends on what year you want to compare to. The Ballabio's flyscreen is mounted to the frame, rather than the bars as the earlier sports.

Thanks for the lead on the rebuild kits. I got one for the rear master in the mail yesterday (thanks MG Cycle). I have some clutch and brake masters in a box. Maybe I'll break one down and measure the piston. MG Cycle also sells the kits based on diameter, but they couldn't tell me what kits to get. I'll probably learn that when I complete my "brake certification training." It would be good to document the appropriate kits in our Encyclopedia of compatible parts. I already replaced the clutch line and added the new fluid reservoir, and the master still works (as does the slave cylinder). Do you think a preventative rebuild on the brake masters is worth doing - or will these 20year parts still last for a long time with their current seals and such? As for the CF goodies. I got the rear fender and the belly pan from Ghezzi-Brian for EU 490 including shipping and all customs charges. They don't list prices on their site, but they respond quickly via email. Also picked up a new CF front fender from ebay (an Aprilia uses the same mounting pattern as the V11 with Ohlins - see encyclopedia for details). @nobleswood if you buy one, would you ask Bruno to throw in an extra bracket for the rear fender for me? I'd like to lower the one on my Scura. I'll pay you to ship to me.

Got some carbon fiber goodies from Bruno (aka Brian) of Ghezzi Brian. It's always a happy day when packages arrive from Italy. I rather like the small rear fender, which I have on my Scura, although it sits a bit too high above the tire. So I was pleasantly surprised to find that GB have modified the bracket to make the fender sit closer to the tire (you can actually adjust it till it touches the tire, so be careful). Now it nestles between two rails on the swingarm, (it sat above the rails with the prior bracket.) It was also pre-drilled with mounting holes, which almost lined up with the bracket, and the holes were almost big enough for the included mounting hardware. So let's call those pilot holes. Dremel tool with small stone-cone bit required to get good fit and alignment. So, still kind of a weird shape on one side, still not perfect, but definitely improved. See thread re what makes these bikes quirky... Two reasons I like this fender: 1: it does a surprisingly good job of keeping debris off the lower shock mount and transmission. 2: you can see every inch of the beautiful swingarm, wheel, and final drive (unlike the massive stock unit that hides everything and shovels crap onto the aforementioned areas.) And possibly true but almost certainly irrelevant... it reduces unsprung weight on the rear.

This looks like a pretty good 2003 Red LeMans for $5,000 USD asking price in Southern California. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/d/chino-moto-guzzi/7431180688.html

Glad to know it arrived - faster than expected. That clamp was from a 2004 bike. Are you going to put it on your Greenie?

https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/control-brakes/mirrors/napoleon-ap-bar-end-mirrors/p/62776 on backorder... but you've got all winter

Thanks Rox - it's a few years old now, and I expect to release my book this year.

Scura black magic. The nappies come with rubber bushings. I just shaved them down till they were a tight fit in the threaded bar ends. (bar weights removed). Then used the included hardware to compress the bushing. I've done it twice... first time I shaved down with a knife - second time I used the wire wheel on a bench grinder. Wire wheel was faster. I think it might be possible to machine something to attach to the bar weights in lieu of the bar-ends, but I have not tried that.