Scud

I think you find the Quat D to quite valuable to the right person if you want cash. And as griswoia offered above, you can probably get a complete system in trade.

Like Docc said. Be sure you know what you are plugging. One line from the tank is draining rainwater and/or gas overflow. Another is to let air back in the tank as the fuel is used. I wouldn't want to accidentally plug either of those.

This You Tube guy cracks me up. He's done a lot of interesting features on specific cars. But he just released this about Ducati. I hope you enjoy it.

If I recall correctly, the top bolts have washers, but the lower bolts, which go through the head guards, do not have washers.

You mean the front subframe? That might be a puzzle to remove without taking the engine out, but could be possible. I would get the bike vertical with the shop stand, then support the engine with a platform jack. You will need to remove the tank and bunch of other stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/75-5027-Intake-Powerstroke-Cleanable-Cotton/dp/B001F0YHVM/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=39OKS3Z8KF5KO&keywords=s%26b+cold+air+intake+6.7+powerstroke&qid=1579560110&sprefix=S%26B%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1&smid=A3GJK7T1KN0PLM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNkpJWENZVkVCMDk0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTE2ODY5VUcyMEZGMFdCSEhPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MDQzODMyQjlXUkhMU1lSMEZDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYnRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== It's the S&B kit. Link to Amazon above. Pretty straightforward bolt-on. A bit of fiddling, but that's to be expected. It is noticeably quicker across the RPM range - but still not fast by any stretch of the imagination. I also have modified exhaust, I think it's a 4" pipe. There are different kits for the OBS (Old Body Style like mine) and the new body style starting in 1999..

Those coiled plastic tubes are truly fugly, but it's a race bike and racers are supposed to experiment with stuff. That said, I do fancy that full-length belly pan. I suppose that not having a side stand makes it easier to fit something like that. And since we're looking closely and straying off topic... those rear-set pegs appear to be mounted inside the big nuts that lock the swing arm pivots in place. That must be fiddly...

That, along with Docc's use of beer bottles to add bell-shapes to the airbox top suggest that the main restriction on the V11 is getting air to filter - not the filter itself. I think that just ditching the rubber snorkels from the airbox top might allow a bit more air in. The search for the correct shape beer bottle provides intrinsic motivation. On the theme of airbox mods... I just put a whole new airbox and an enormous pod filter on my 7.3L Turbo-Diesel F250. The new airbox draws in fresh air from the stock intake piece (which opens in front the radiator for cool air. But it also has a huge hole in the back of the airbox, so air intake can flow in from the other side. I'm no intake scientist, but it seems to me that holes in the V11 airbox lid would serve a similar purpose to the one I just put in my truck, allowing air to flow directly onto the filter (and more evenly over the available surface of the filter), instead of having to travel over the filter to the back of the V11 airbox.

Thanks guys. PM sent to Emerald.

FWIW - all the Ducati STs are cheap. I just sold an ST3 in very nice condition for a bit less than my $2,750 asking price (and after a long time progressively dropping the price in the ad). It was a 2004, which I think is the last year of the dry clutch on that model. The ST3 is more powerful and more refined than the ST2. I'd certainly rather spend a few hours replacing a Ducati clutch than a few days doing a Moto Guzzi clutch. And with a dry clutch, you can get fancy stuff and a vented cover so it always sounds like your bike is about to frag itself. The Ducati desmodue/desmotre Maintenance and Modification Guide, by LT Snyder is a good investment if you decide to get one of these bikes. But it does not cover the desmoquattro (the engine in the ST4).

The Pit Posse Wheel Bearing puller is not a traditional blind puller. It requires access through the wheel to drive it out. I've done several bearings with no problems. I also have the "silver slapper" slide hammer, with which I recently removed the original wheel spindles from rusty steering knuckles on a 1997 F250. If the blind bearing tool is strong enough the slide hammer will get it out. I destroyed a Harbor Freight slide hammer and bearing pulller when I did some V11 swingarm bearings. But it did get them out... and HF gave me a full refund. FYI on slide hammers... you can wrap a towel around the slide and swing it like a baseball bat. The slide goes faster and it doesn't hurt your wrist or elbow.

I've used the Pit Posse Wheel Bearing Remover. You insert a split cylinder, then drive in a wedge to grip the inside of the bearing. Then you just pop it out with a hammer. Very efficient. Fun, even.

Way to keep that beauty on the road.

I would have a hard time letting go of such a clean and rare bike as that. Even if I couldn't ride any more I'd be tempted to keep it as living room art and regale visitors with tales of my daring exploits.

@David Konings The tops of the forks have a bit of a taper. Mine are set so that the taper starts at the top of the clip on. The clip on is 20mm thick. I think this is how they come from the factory. Some people like to raise the forks (lowers the front) a bit to quicken the steering - along with a 170 rear tire instead of the 180.

@LangleyMalc I have found the older, shorter bolt and responded to your message. We'll get you back on the road in no time.

FYI - the earlier models had a shorter bolt that does not go all the way through and does not require a retaining pin. I probably have one of those - if I do, it's for sale cheap. You lose the extra safety of the retaining pin and there have been a few cases of the bolt going AWOL and the caliper taking a short journey around the axle. But you can use a bit of mild loctite and you can get the carrier off without even removing the shorter bolt. Hit me up on a private message if you want me to dig in the stash for the bolt. You may as well get an "unbreakable" shift spring too - I've got a big pile of those.

I think you mean the bolt that goes through the swingarm to the caliper carrier. I bought one of those a while back through Harpers. Check their website - they have a very nice way to find the part numbers. Since you're a newbie to this site, here is the link to the diagram (I think the bolt in question is part number 34 in the diagram, and Moto Guzzi part number 01638630. http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-lookup/2000-2009-moto-guzzis/v-11-cafe-ballabio-1100-2003-2005/rear-brake-system-en-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12.html

OK - when we do find the correct spec, you will have to add the height of the stock clip ons (in fork rings) to the spec to get the correct setting for your bike. I'll take a look at mine for you later today - but it will be the same for all of the Öhlins-equipped bikes - not just Scuras.

More track bike options: A very nice Suzuki SV 650S, the fully faired version, for $2,000. Low cost, fabulous handling, not overpowered, just throw some super sticky rubber on it and go racing. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/d/costa-mesa-2006-suzuki-sv650-full/7050111066.html And could you please go buy this pristine Ducati 1000DS with race heads and heaps of extra parts for $4,500 so I don't feel compelled to look at it? https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/d/rancho-cucamonga-2004-ducati-1000ds/7040735649.html Please? I really like this 1000DS... It's one of Ducati's best motors - at least for all around use and durability.

Welcome. This question might be better placed in Technical Topics, rather than the registry. Somebody might move it there. But to answer your question, we need to know some more things. Does your bike have the original clip-ons that mount above the triple clamp? If so, 6 rings above that is pretty extreme. However, if your bike has been converted to handlebars, or has aftermarket clip-ons that mount below the triple-clamp, then the forks might be set to about the factory spec. I don't recall exactly where the specs are listed, but check the Fileshare section of this site for the Öhlins manuals and links to the shop manual.

That sounds like a lot of fun. I do enjoy the big twins the most. I also like big thumpers. The only race bikes I ever rode were ATK 600s when I was pit crew for some privateer Baja 500 racers. Brutal would be a good word for those too.

Springs arrived in spec. Shipping out all the pre-orders today.

Here is a salvage titled 2001 MV Agusta F4 750 for only $4,900 in Los Angeles. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/mcy/d/los-angeles-2001-mv-agusta-f4-750/7039904961.html And here's a 2005 F4 1000cc, also salvage titled, in Sacramento for $5,000. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mcy/d/sacramento-mv-agusta-f4r/7036898302.html You could probably buy some previously damaged or unpainted bodywork for the track - and dress her back up for the street.

I believe I have mentioned my nephew on occasion. He's a good dirt rider and has a Husqvarna TE250 (the older Italian street legal, 4-stroke made in the MV years - not the new Austrian TE250 2-stroke). Dammit Husky... the model numbers are so inconsistent over the years. Anyway, he's the one I tried to convince to buy my BMW K75s when he wanted his first street bike, but he just had to have this new MV F4. Emotions won over practical - he got the F4 and I sold my BMW to a neighbor boy as his first street bike. So... he lives in Orange County but recently got a good job in San Diego so he's been living with us for a while. I, of course, said that I had room for his motorcycles in my garage (see Phil's insightful devil comment above). I commuted on it yesterday, which is a very bad idea. There are a few curves on the way to work that beg to be taken quickly. But the MV never lets you know that you are going fast. It just begs you to give it more gas... and how can you deny it? That fast and that red... I think I would lose my license if that was my daily ride. It's a lovely machine in every way. I've ridden it a few times, but It's not something I'd want to stay on for 200 miles at a time - unless those 200 miles could be covered in about 90 minutes. Then I'd be happy to do it, and the bike would be in it's happy place too. Did I mention how great it sounds? Glorious.