Scud

^ good point on that button - from a person who actually installed a 5 speed Ram clutch in a V11.

We had super-detailed discussion about this elsewhere. I think the summary was that the 5-speed and 6-speed clutches are identical, except for the transmission input hub, which is unique to the 6-speed and is no longer available. However, since you have a Tenni, you already have the correct Ram 6-speed input hub and can use the 5-speed clutch. You will get a hub that you don't need with the kit. Or you could put a twin plate clutch in. In which case you would need to swap the transmission input hub for twin-plate, six speed part. I'll be yanking a complete twin-plate clutch out of a parts bike in the next few days if you want to go that route. If I were in your position, I'd try the 5-speed Ram clutch with the steel flywheel.

First - you never need to explain why you posted pics. We love pics. This sounds very much like a shift linkage problem. There are many places that things can rub (such as if you have the front screw by the starter in backwards) or bind (such as over-tightening the long pivot bolt). If the bike's been sitting a while, I would just pull out all the linkage parts, clean 'em up and reassemble carefully with fresh grease. Keep the Chuck-n-Scud spring under the seat in case your original breaks. You are semi-stuck in gear if the spring breaks. If you hit the brakes hard (especially when going downhill), you can get the pawl arm to flop forward. You get one shift after each time you successfully get the arm to flop forward. This is the voice of experience...

Yeah Spicer U-joints and SKF bearings. Every bearing, race, bushing, seal, and joint on the front driveline, steering, and suspension is new. The Ford Shop Manual is fantastic. I had the differential bearings and seals replaced at a local driveline shop. He actually advised me against the Spicer U-joints with the grease nipples. He said he prefers the kind without the grease fitting, since the seals are better on that type and the inner cross is stronger. He especially prefers the non-greaseable u-joints on diesels due to the high torque they have to transfer to the wheels. But I used the greaseable type anyway. I only want 4WD on this truck for traction and light duty on the dirt roads. I'm not going mudding or rock-crawling in a 20 foot, 6,000 pound truck. So I don't think I'm going to break those joints.

Yup, lots of grease. New bearings too. Just picked it up from the alignment shop - it drives soooo much better than before. Now I need to find someplace to try out the 4WD and test those new bearings, seals, and u-joints.

I can assure you that many hammers were used in anger during the project. Slide hammer was my favorite, but I also enjoyed wailing on the axles with a big rubber mallet to get the U-joints to settle in and move freely after I pressed them in. And the breaker bar (pictured) was essential for dislodging stubborn rusty stuff (even after soaking for days in PB Blaster). Although frustrating at times, I learned a lot - never worked on 4WD before. And I now get to bore people to tears with my front-end rebuild stories...

I thought y'all might enjoy some polished F250 front end. I drove it today - after being down about a month. I no longer fear replacing U-joints on a Moto Guzzi - having just replaced these huge rusted-in 4WD U-joints. Sometimes a project takes on special meaning if I have to buy a special tool for the job. This one should qualify... Special Tools Purchased for this project: Slide Hammer - great fun. I bought a cheap slide hammer once to do V11 swingarm bearings, but it bent so I returned it. My new one is a beast. Spindle puller - a most ingenious adapter for the slide hammer Hydraulic press - from Harbor Freight. Perhaps not the most precise press available, but was great for the U-joints and a few other bits. Will come in handy in future. Front end steering puller kit - for Pitman arm and tie-rod ends. So easy... can't believe I used to use pickle forks and hammers. Ball joint service kit - this was a fail for this project, as the F250 joints were badly stuck, so I had to get them pressed out (and new ones pressed in) from a shop. However, my daughter's Toyota Highlander will need ball joints soon, and those will probably seem like child's play after this project. A few sockets. Had to buy a 33mm and one other size Just amazed at the size of some of the parts. The inner wheel bearings don't even fit in a big tub of grease.

For the record... a Moto Guzzi Stelvio has a single-plate clutch.

The "next keeper" of my Scura probably hasn't been born yet.

^yes, check out post #9 on the first page of this thread.

Looks like a good showing. Love those old theaters - saw a concert in one in LA recently. Are the films available to see anywhere online?

Oh yeah, it's gonna see dirt and rocks for sure. I'll probably do all the break-in miles on the street though.

Took the Ducati ST3 for a 1,000 mile farewell tour up some minor roads to the San Francisco area... and dropped it off at GP Motorcycles in exchange for this helluva deal on a brand new (but 2 year old) Stelvio. The V85TT was so tempting... but the end-of-the-run Stelvios seem to have all the issues sorted. Plus an 8.5 gallon tank (could have used that on the speed-run home on 101 from San Luis Obispo to San Diego). And the NTX has so many nice features or accessories that you would normally have to pay extra for: Suspension adjustable for pre-load, rebound, and damping, front and rear - had the dealer set sag for me on delivery. Crash bars Luggage Fog lights Bash plate Hand guards (those would've been nice for the last 100 miles to SF in the rain last Sunday)

I never have tried one of those for stands. Do you have the factory stand already? If so, you can get a platform jack for less - and it's way smaller and more versatile. To remove the front wheel, I use the factory stand, then lift under the engine with the platform jack. Super easy and stable.

Sorry to hear about the Norton. It always hurts most when the damage is self-inflicted, huh? FWIW, an oil pressure gauge alerted me to a problem on my prior red LeMans that I would otherwise been ignorant of. I put it on because I thought it would be cool to have, along with a voltmeter. Didn't expect any useful information... just liked the idea of have some more gauges. But it surprised me with a low reading (not low enough to cause the low pressure light to come on though). Investigation eventually revealed two missing tabs on the sump gasket - installed that way by previous owner or mechanic. Anyways... back to your bike and best wishes with it.

That line enters the casting at level below where your oil lever should be - especially when on the sidestand. Therefore, what drips out of there is the same as what comes out the drain plug.

^ truth. And the vent line on my Dana 50 TTB differential needs replacing... trying to get us back on topic...

Diesel smells good... even better than used gear oil.

Step one: remove frame Step two: fill with diesel fuel, shake, then drain Step three: reinstall frame Seriously, you probably could flush it in place with some heavy duty degreaser. Maybe send some flexible wire brushes in there... followed by a small hose connected to a wet-dry-vac. Don't use the wet-dry-vac if you flush it with gasoline.

That's about what my Husky 701 Enduro cost... and also the current asking price for a new 2017 Stelvio. My local dealer has a couple unsold Stelvios, which seem like a good value compared to the anticipated "full sticker price" that the first few V85s will probably command.

Sounds like you've done this job, G. I will replace the vent line, which broke when I removed it. Spicer U-Joints, SKF bearings, and Moog for the steering components and pivot bushings. I'm using Lucas waterproof 4WD grease in the gun. And I'm going to use a fresh tube of the best sealant I can find - don't want to pull this pumpkin ever again. I had the 4 ball joints and 2 pivot bushings pressed in today at a shop. I'm pretty sure I can do the rest of the smaller components myself.

Hopefully nothing more than a clean-out and replace the axle seals, the gears look great. The old Dana 50 (Twin Beam) FWD has some peculiarities, one of which is that the axle shaft has a retaining clip inside the differential that must be removed to get the axle out... to replace the seal. It's easier to replace the U-joints with the axle out too. There's no access cover on the diff, it seals directly onto the big suspension arm in the background (you can see the grey sealant).

I got a 5 pound "silver slapper" slide hammer. It made short work of removing the front spindles from my truck. I wish I had that when I removed the V11 swingarm bearings. And here's a tip for slide-hammer use: If you've ever used one, you know they hurt - because your wrist and elbow and shoulder take the impact from gripping the heavy slider. Just twist a towel around the slider - super tight. Then you can swing it like a baseball bat or golf club. The slider moves way faster and it doesn't hurt. FWIW - it took a 12 pound sledge to dislodge the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. Hooray for the "bigger hammer" method. And here is one of my all time favorite tools... the platform jack. I initially bought it to remove the engine from the V11, but I have found many more uses for it since. I think the Dana 50 front differential weighs more than the entire V11 engine. The old Ford is getting a new front rotors and calipers, steering gearbox, steering linkage, ball joints, springs, u-joints, I-beam pivot bushings, wheel bearings, and every other seal and bearing in the front driveline. I had to take the handle off the garage door to get it to close... at least she fits. Nothing looks very "polished" now, but I'm going to paint all the big rusty lumps before putting them back in. Seriously... remember the slide-hammer towel method if you ever have to remove the V11 swingarm bearings. It is magic.

That was my LeMans, which is gone to a new home now. I don't recall which size the oil and volt gauges were, but I would guess I used the smaller ones. For mounting, I simply used flexible metal strap from hardware store - formed into a bracket, then painted. I use a split rubber hose between the metal strap and the gauge cups.

I'm stoked with these little LEDs in the rear. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IV0PVA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you keep the stock incandescent bulbs up front you don't even need to buy a resistor to make the LEDs flash correctly. They are almost plug and play... but the plugs aren't the same, so you need to do a little wiring. You will need to remove the painted tail section to get at the wiring connections. From there, you can see what needs to be done to remove the signals.