Scud

That sounds like a great trip (except for those lowlights). Looking forward to the photos.

...10 with the steering damper... The ad is gone now, but didn't it say something like "Fluids changed religiously every year."? FWIW, a few years ago, my Scura had only 200 miles on it. Fresh battery, fresh fluids, no problems except the expected Scura stuff, which this lovely new red Sport is immune to. Mine even had the original tires, which is not a benefit. The age of the tires should at least be considered before undertaking a fly-and ride. But tires can be installed easily.

This thread proves how obsessive some people are about looking at used motorcycle ads on the Internet. And how useful that can be...

HaulBikes worked well for me once. But a cheap one-way flight and a meandering path back home make more memories - and could be faster. From New Jersey to Illinois you could even ride over a few small, but beautiful, mountains. Can you think of a better way to spend the upcoming Independence Day? Break out the maps and start planning your ride.

That sure looks like a viable option. You just have to think about how much you value the cosmetic mods vs how much you value originality. I put a red tail on my red LeMans when I had it - I like it a lot better than the original black tail. Low miles and well-cared for deserves a premium price in my opinion - saves money in the long run. Personally, I prefer the flyscreen, but not by a big margin. The LeMans fairing is attractive and it works well. Here's a 2003 naked (with a lot of 2002 features) in Los Angeles. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/mcy/d/2003-moto-guzzi-v11-sport/6614233541.html

Ha - that looks like fun. But it probably burns 5 rear tires for every front.

Thanks for bringing the bike by yesterday - she's in fabulous condition. However, she does seem sluggish at the lower revs, and she idles well and does not hiccup or pop on deceleration. She just doesn't seem very happy to putt along leisurely at 3,000rpms. She comes alive at 5-6,000. As we discussed, it sure seems worth a try to put the stock airbox back on to regain those velocity stacks and see if that improves things. I'd try the 100% stock system first - with the rubber "snorkels" as you can see in the "red-head" picture of my Champagne LeMans bike that Doc posted earlier in this thread. BTW, my Scura still has the snorkels on. It's also curious that you got two spare ECUs with the bike. So we really do not know what map you're currently running. It might be worth investigating and trying it with a stock, unmodiified map. My Scura runs fine on the stock map, and I have not felt any need to mess with it (although I am curious to try Meinolf's map based on the excellent feedback it has received). Later, if you feel like playing around, you could remove the snorkels and "bell" the intakes as Doc has "doc"umented elsewhere. Pods do look cool, and I like seeing more of the red frame and shock. But with the stock airbox, you also get to reinstall those candy-apple green side panels.

MartyNZ wired in some supplemental LEDs for tail light and brake light. I have his handiwork on my Scura. It makes both lights brighter, plus the LEDs work even if the single incandescent bulb fails.

Ok, if it's soon, I might have to ride the ST3 up there. I've long been curious about the road through Bodfish, but haven't ridden it yet. 155 gives me a "Woody" that lasts all the way to Wofford Heights. See map link for explanation. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Woody,+CA/Wofford+Heights,+CA+93285/@35.7148027,-118.7310954,11.51z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x80ea864a5ab9881f:0x7f124b9fa2ced6fe!2m2!1d-118.834259!2d35.7041199!1m5!1m1!1s0x80c1cd9d10e47bb7:0xe6cd50048d45b3fe!2m2!1d-118.4561967!2d35.7068961!3e0 I've been scheming on riding 190 to the North a bit, with a stop at the Trail of 100 Giants. But to go that far, it will need to be an overnighter.

I'm so nice that I will ride it over Sherman Pass for you. Seriously, I'd be happy to take a look if you are nearby - or if I am passing through. I think we are at least 200 miles apart. Ideally, I can get my Scura's electrics "trustworthy" and you feel the differences in suspension, frame length and clutch-type.

There are some very well informed people on Wildguzzi.com - with a lot more experience across the marque. You might do well to ask there. Or get a copy of Guzziology, which has tons of specs and might be useful for this and other questions.

I expanded the male pins on the yellow wires of the new regulator and cleaned the female connectors. But it still doesn't seem to make a good fit. Started the bike and still got 13v charging at the battery. So the Scura missed another ride today. Instead, I rode the Husky over the Main Divide Road (dirt) on Saddleback mountain to a fathers day gathering in Orange County. I think that this weekend I will install a Maxi 30-amp fuse holder and figure out stronger connectors for the voltage regulator (mine are deformed a bit but not as bad as Marty's picture. The bullets really do seem like a problem. I should probably pull the tank and inspect the rest of the wiring loom... and while I'm there, I could bell the intake snorkels on the airbox to get more induction noise. And in OC, I finally got to ride my nephew's MV Augusta F4. Wow. Love the sound of that engine under full load. And it's fairly quick... Kevin - how's the Greenie treating you?

And the brakes were working perfectly before this? Like Thumper says, it's probably worth trying again to get rid of any possible air. After that, I dunno... weird that it holds pressure, then doesn't.

Inspected stator - connections seem solid. Installed Electrosport ESR515 voltage regulator (the plug-and-play one). However, I did find that the female ends for the bullet connectors for the two yellow wires on the loom are quite hard, and they fit very loose. They are even looser with new regulator. But I taped them up tight and started the bike. It's charging at only 13v. And I noticed that the connections on the yellow wires got much warmer than the other connectors - and quickly. So... methinks there is some arcing going on in there and that I need different types of connectors. Does that make sense?

Can you try that with the front wheel off the ground? If the lever gets pressure again, see if the wheel will turn while the lever has pressure. If so, you probably have a blocked line.

Yup - THAT was the stern warning I saw somewhere recently. I think I may have screwed the pooch by charging the battery via the handy cable I installed. I'll swap the regulator and report back.

Thanks for posting the picture. What I wrote makes no sense - please disregard. There are three bolts on each side of the subframe (6 total). And... when you really look closely, the engine block is not even attached to the frame. There are only two big bolts up front that attach the timing cover to the subframe. And the back of the engine only mounts to the transmission with about 6 studs and the starter bolts. This changed in 2002 when arms were added to the lower subframe - and the arms are connected directly to the block. However you count (or mis-count), those big bolts between subframe and timing cover seem pretty important.

I lost one of those main bolts from my Scura once. Shit a brick when I noticed it. Can you imagine the engine dropping out of the frame while you're riding? That would be a bad day. There are four bolts - two are easy to see and two are obscured by the tank.

I have added a supplemental ground wire from regulator case to the frame (under tank)... then from that spot on the frame directly to battery negative. To my way of thinking, this provides the best possible ground and protects the wiring loom even if the main ground to the transmission case works loose. Whereas a supplemental wire only to the case still relies on grounding through the main ground wire to tranny. One bit I neglected to mention above. I have been using my Battery Minder charger (which has a desulfation mode) with the battery in the bike. I have recently learned that charging the battery on the bike is a no-no for the regulator (this information has been available, but I hadn't payed close enough attention). This is why I am now suspicious of the regulator. The Battery Minder has 2, 4, and 8 amp options. I think I accidentally used the 8 amp a while ago. This makes me wonder if that was the cause of the deformed fuse. Thanks for the info on the tach. My Scura has the white-faced Veglia. I think I have read of that issue as well. When the tach goes, it could be the tach... or it could be the charging system.

Here's a series of events that is making me nervous about going any serious distance on my Scura. A couple months ago she quit running 1/2 mile from home. I found a slightly deformed (melted) 30-amp fuse. Swapped relays around and was able to restart and ride home. Replaced fuse, inspected various electrical connections, did some starts and stop in the garage, measured voltage at battery at idle and at 4,000 RPM (it was well over 13, but not 14 volts - can't remember exact numbers) Feeling comfortable and not seeing other problems I went out for a longer ride. I quickly noticed that my tachometer failed. Pulled over, swapped relays around, checked fuse, restarted bike, still no tach. Figured the tach coincidentally failed. Continued my ride. Went about 60 miles. Had another failure and had to put her on a truck to get home. Removed battery (which still had over 12 volts). Charged it with my Battery MINDer (fancy charge that has a specific AGM mode) - it's holding a charge at 12.8 after sitting for several weeks. Been busy... and riding other bikes while wishing I trusted the Scura. Today I reinstalled the battery and changed to different relays (I had been running the "higher-rated" Omrons with the skinny blades, but switched back to the Omrons with fatter blades which many of us have used for a long time). She fired right up, and the tach magically works again. Tested the charging at idle and 4,000 (13.9v cold) Went for a short ride. Tested the charging again at operating temperature and only got 13.0 volts at 4000 RPM. So..... that's a lot of detail, which I hope is enough for you electrical geniuses to advise me. Is the change in charge voltage (as measured at the battery) normal between cold and hot? Should I replace the regulator and do the same test (I have a new one still in box). What else do you need to know? I want to take her to San Felipe Mexico for fish tacos, but I just don't trust her right now.

Harpers has a great website, and shows the windsreen for the 2002 model. Not sure what you have on there. http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-sport-naked-1100-2001-2002/naked-windshield-en-v11-lemans-sport-naked-2001-2002.html

FWIW, I use a small block of wood under the sidestand when I park in the garage. That means zero wear on the sidestand (even when idling), plus it keeps the bike a bit more upright, with less strain on the sidestand and mounting brackets.

Hey Chuck - There are lots of aftermarket sidestand extension plates that you could use as inspiration. Here's one example: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Stainless-Kickstand-Extension-Universal/dp/B075T9NWWC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1529158704&sr=8-13&keywords=motorcycle+kick+stand+plate

I've seen stands with similar wear. I think it's just from two things: 1) parking the bike. Each time you lean the bike over on the stand it slides a bit on the ground. 2) iding on the sidestand. I think this might be the larger cause of wear. Especially if the bike has a lumpy idle and the sidestand is on an abrasive surface such as brush-finish concrete.

Have you ever noticed that your shit is stuff, but other people's stuff is shit? Carlin was so brilliant.