Scud

Do tell... what matter of ephemera? Marketing literature? Impulse purchases? Bits and baubles? Special tools?

That one was discussed on WG recently. Consensus is that it's a 2002 Red-Grey LeMans that somehow got a Nero Corsa tank and tail.

Too damn funny. Subject line: "Need another bike" My reaction: "Don't we all?" Proud to be a member of this "enabling" support group.

Glad worked. Sorry to be late to the party, but I installed mine with the blade on... then I read somewhere how Pete Roper described installing it by removing the blade first (and installing the blade at the end.) If I ever do another, I will certainly remember that.

That's a fine idea, especially for a high-mileage bike. While you're at it, see about getting the two ends with opposite threads so you can actually adjust the length of the rod without disconnecting one end. La vie en rose.

Fixed it for ya.

Flat black powdercoating gives a finish that matches satin black paint. Some powdercoaters have a minimum price, so you can get a few other bits done at the same time for "free." Need ideas? Here's my ex-LeMans with some powercoated bits: Valve covers and guards Alternator cover Porkchops Footlevers footpegs and brackets Passenger pegs and brackets brake reservoir cover sidestand Lower subframe etc.

...just enough to sneak in a few shifts and get home. Nothing you'd want to rely on beyond that. Really - it's quite rewarding to know that the idea helped somebody. Thanks for mentioning it.

Hey, nice one. It looks to be complete and original, except for the red stripes on the rims, which I like a lot. Have fun getting to know her... and I assume riding home from TX to CO. If it was mine, I'd want to: Upgrade the shock Upgrade the steering damper Find some "early sport" hardware to mount the light and gauges to the triple clamps instead of the frame.

That was me with the hard-brake-to-shift technique. Glad it helped you get home. When you have the pre-selector out, you can see that the spring pushes the arm forward (and a broken spring allows it to flop backward). Therefore, hard braking can get the arm to flop forward into place for one shift. I still have a little box of the new "unbreakable" springs. Send me PM if you need one. US$10 per spring. Add US$5 shipping to US. Add US$15 shipping outside US.

I have done several 500 mile days on V11s. Backpack and tank bag is all I need, but small panniers, tail bags, or passenger-seat-mounted bags are all good options. I have used a Giant Loop Great Basin bag a few times. That carries a LOT of stuff and simply straps on to passenger seat and passenger pegs without need for any ugly (IMO) brackets.

I had one of the original FJ1100s, it was a beast. Got me through college with my license (barely). Sold it to get an airhead BMW and have mostly been on twins and thumpers since then. But I feel tempted every time I see a clean, low mile FJ1100 for sale. As for your tranny - chances are good that it is just a bad seal. Here's something I wrote up about resealing the tranny: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20021

Yup - all the V11s I've ridden have a certain raw, elemental presence that makes them great fun. But having had a Greenie with Ohlins/Marzocchi (red-frame) and a Scura with Ohlins forks and shock (black frame) side by side for a while, I'll stick to my assertion that there is an appreciable difference between the bikes. That aside, I feel confident that I am still faster on the Husqvarna 701 in tight corners, especially if the pavement is poor. And yeah, I think the cracked cases are pretty rare. It's just that when they happen it's a time-consuming repair. But if you're patient, you can pick a complete used tranny for $400-500.

High desert = easy access to Southern Sierra Nevadas and other fabulous mountain roads. I've ridden naked, bar-mounted flyscreen, and LeMans fairing versions. I like the flyscreen on my Scura the best. The Ohlins suspension is better than the Marzocchi/Sachs combo, but the Marzocchi forks with almost any upgraded shock is still a great suspension. The 2001 and earlier models (aka Red-Frames) are more likely to have a cracked transmission if they do not have the special bracket. But they also have a smaller rear tire and shorter wheelbase, which makes them turn quicker than the later models. By comparison, the 2002 and later models (black frames) could be called more stable. V11s like sharing garage space with Husqvarnas, but they kick BMWs out of the garage. At least that has been my experience.

The alternator nut has standard (clockwise) threads. But... do you have the Guzzi shop stand or some other swingarm stand? If so, I think it's easier to put the bike in gear and use the elevated rear wheel to rotate the engine.

What Dave said, plus... Awnings are nice for foot traffic and Americans don't walk nearly as much as people in other countries I've been to. The midwest has some pretty intense winds sometimes, which could be another factor - I see a few awnings in that photo, but they are all fairly small. Also depends on how posh the town is.

I loves me some dry-clutch noises.

Nice taco. No dings on the skid plate? What a weird idea. Although it's cool for that low-mile survivor. The skid plate on my Husky is bent, dented, scraped, and generally abused. I'm proud of how deformed the plate is and I cheer every impact.

Yes, the Titanium exhaust kit came with a set of shorter hangers. This puts the passenger pegs up higher and changes the angle of the pipes. Here they are on a Greenie... But they are on my Scura now. If you are going to bend the hanger, I think the actual bending will be at the weld between the tab and frame, not the hanger itself. That's why I asked about checking for a crack before you bend it back. It probably won't take more than a few degrees bend at the tab to move the bottom of the bracket enough for you.

FWIW mine is 3/8 further out on the right than the left. I just measured, but exact measurements won't help you, because I have the high hangers on mine. The right pipe definitely is supposed to be farther out. Is there any evidence of a crack at the weld on the frame tab where the hanger mounts? I'd hate to see you snap that off.

To get a better fit: 1) Remove the hanger bolts 2) Loosen every fastener in the exhaust system - headers (2 nuts each flange) - crossover (4x and the hanger to frame bolts) 3) Wrestle the whole system till you get the pipes where you want them in back 4) Reinstall hanger bolts 5) Half-tighten from the back to the front, paying attention to how everything lines up. 6) Final wrestling with semi-tight system 7) Final tightening of everything

More "adventuring" on the Husqvarna 701 Enduro in the Eastern Sierra Nevadas: I love this Hooskvarna. Everyone who I let ride it is amazed and wants to sell whatever they're currently riding. I got to ride it "in anger" in several places last weekend. I can ride it almost as hard as my Husky TE450, which is now for sale. The 701 has insane torque down low, and the top end is pretty damn fun too. It's about 95% of a full-on dirt bike for my riding style, and it is soooo much better on the road... and it handles two-up over rocky, moderately technical terrain with ease... I only fault it for being a tad heavy, but I can still pick it up by myself, so it's OK. (dropped once on a mud/snow downhill)

Only 25 miles from my house. If somebody is a serious buyer I might be able to go take a look and test ride for you.

I have the shop stand, which is good as documented above. Before that, I used a standard swingarm stand from Cycle Gear. It needed to be widened just a bit to fit. A platform jack works well to support the engine, in conjunction with a swingarm, or factory shop, stand. It can lift the front enough to remove the front wheel - or you can drop the whole engine onto the platform jack and slide it out. The front wheel chock, like Docc's is also good. If you have a sturdy beam overhead, you can chock the front wheel and raise the back end of the bike with straps on the upper subframe.

I leave the manual petcock open all the time - only close it to remove the tank. FWIW - I also have to use pliers to completely close it. If you don't install a petcock on a model with an external fuel pump, then you will have to drain the tank before removing it. So I do think there is some value in reinstalling a petcock. Obviously, the tanks with internal fuel pumps have no petcock.