Scud

I enjoyed Honda: The Man and His Machines, by Sol Sanders. It was written in the 1975, so you need to find a used copy. The appendix lists all American Honda products, it takes 2 pages: 31 motorcycles and 5 cars (5 variations of Honda Civic). Total Control, by Parks is also good. I just typed "Motorcycle Biography" into Amazon and got a pretty nice list, including a 2017 book on Steve McQueen, which I decided to buy. McQueen's Motorcycles: Riding and Racing with the King of Cool

When I reassembled, I set valve clearances on both sides to .006" Intake and .008" Exhaust. I did it exactly as you described using the Moto Guzzi shop stand. I think I must have adjusted the valves at least 5 times in earlier efforts to solve this. I've got a busy week ahead and a possible road trip this weekend. I'll get back to this when I can. At that time, I think I should probably drop the sump and pull the heads, barrels, and pistons - and maybe the camshaft, depending on what I find.

Sadly, you win nothing. I just fired it up and the noise is the same. I think she's going to have to sit in the corner for a few weeks.

Jeez Chuck, do you have to park that thing next to a big pile of dirt just to make it look good by comparison?

Interesting theory... I was wondering what other effects there would be if the rocker arm was sliding too much. However, the heads, exhaust, throttle bodies... all back together now. I should have an update in a few hours. Noise or no noise? Place yer bets...

Nice work. I think that's the most elegant speed sensor I've seen so far. Those rubber mounts were probably shaved down to get the (swollen) tank to fit. Be prepared for a tight fit when you put the tank back on. I ended up doing the gauges twice on my LeMans. First time was in a hurry to get registered in California by a deadline, then to get the style how I wanted it. Will ETB produce custom gauge faces? Docc has a great looking set of white faces that look similar to the Veglia originals on the earlier V11s.

Great article. Thanks.

OK - so here's what I did: Assembled the rockers on the tower - the intake side made the same noise as the video. So that's isolated from the pushrod, valve guide, etc. Found the stiffest spring from the original motor (which had 50,000 miles). There were noticeable differences in spring stiffness. Installed that spring - still made the noise. Then I assembled it with an extra washer (non-expensive, non-elaborate) - a thin one at the top of the shaft, not one of the thick, brass washers. Noise is gone. There is still free-play, but it is less than exhaust side. I am tempted to put it all back together and start it like this. Do you see a risk if I do that? This would only be short-term. If that eliminates the noise, then I would get all new springs and washers.

Yup... I'm motivated now, because I have a real lead to chase down. And I have the four springs from the original motor. I'll go see if one is stiffer. Here's hoping...

Here's the video: I was suspicious of this noise... which is why I had my daughter take the video. Might this be the problem? I think it's worth at least putting in some new springs before digging deeper into the motor. It would be awesome if that solves it... And it's not much work to get back to this point if that doesn't solve it.

Before I took the heads apart, I took a video showing how the RH intake rocker arm could slide easily up and down the shaft, making a lot of noise. Then I did the same test on the LH side and the LH exhaust made a similar (but lesser noise). I will get that posted soon - and before I pull the barrel. I had the pistons out when I painted the heads and barrels. Everything looked smooth and perfect. On that bearing... is that something you've done any maybe could find a part number? If not, I can take measurements and try to find the correct bearing. I might like to test that bearing (or new springs) before doing anything else. The spring has a washer on each side. Would the bearing replace all three parts?

Very funny. Most people would consider the internal pump to be an upgrade. The sleeves and heat-shrink ends are available in smaller sizes. I don't think it would cost much to put heat-shield on all the high-pressure lines to the throttle bodies. If I had known about these when I replaced all those 8mm lines I would have used it.

Thanks guys. I'll probably get a little further into late this afternoon. Got a little work today, but it's 40 miles from home and I'm going to take a shortcut* *a shortcut is the twistiest route between any two points. In this case, the shortcut on the way home will probably be over 100 miles.

I couldn't find injection-style clamps either. I re-used the original clamps. The finished OD of the hose is 23mm.

So you'd leave the piston on the rod - not disconnect the wrist pin to take piston off with the barrel? That's how I did it before when I painted the barrels, but I think somebody said it's better to leave the piston in... or maybe it doesn't really matter which way it's done?

Hey guys, I could use a little hand-holding here. I can't see anything wrong with the head and piston appears to be in correctly, with the large recess on the intake side. Oil came out of all the places that it seems like it is supposed to flow. What seems to be the next best step? If I pull the piston and barrel will I be able to get the lifters out and see the cam lobes well enough to know if that's the problem? Or do I drop the pan and disconnect the "big ends" of the connecting rods? Or something else? Or all of the above? I bet you guys think I know what I'm doing here... but I don't. I've never assembled an engine to the point of installing a camshaft, crank, or connecting rods (though I have taken some apart that never went back together.)

Here's my Scura, wearing her latest dark-fashion accessory. The 15 year old hose was still OK, but definitely harder and less flexible than the new hose. If you have smallish hands, you can replace the hose by just propping up the tank, not totally removing it. LowRyter's is on the way and I have a couple more I can ship immediately. I just ordered some more of the heat shrink ends so I can use the balance of the fuel line and heat shield. I can make 1, maybe 2 more than I originally thought, so if you all buy these, there will some money leftover for Jaap (forum donation).

Tinus - I think you'll be fine. From what I can see, the engine tends to move more in the short-frame bikes (is that what KR means?) than in the long-frame, later bikes. It is especially noticable with a rough idle. So you might just make sure you have a smooth, balanced idle, or adjust the idle speed up a bit to smooth it out. I dropped off a 2002 lower subframe for SP838 in New York a while back. He was going to try fitting it to his red-framed Sport. It would require: Machining down the surface on the large diagonal cross-brace that mates to the LH porkchop One of the following: Remove the bars that go forward to the engine block Tap holes in the engine block for the mounting bolts

FYI - the Speedhuts didn't have any posts. I glued the lamp-nuts onto the backs and screwed the posts into them. The crossbars are what you use to mount lights into electrical boxes on the wall or ceiling.

Here's how I re-used the rubber mounts on my 2003 LeMans that originally had ITI gauges. The metal parts are all from the electrical section of a a hardware store. You can adjust the height of the cross bar on the threaded lamp rod and align the mounts on the slots with lock washers. I think that image, and several others got PhotoBlocketed on the Speedhut thread. I need to restore those at some point.... I hope this helps you though. edit: not sure what's gone wrong, but I can't post a picture right now. If you want to see how I did it, send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send the pic directly to you.

I'm strongly leaning toward a Husqvarna 701 Enduro. I'd like to be able to technical dirt riding and would be willing to sacrifice some "touring" comfort for that.

You'll probably need new fork springs after saving all that weight. Seriously - that's a good find on that speed sender unit. If I know about that, I would have used it instead of buying a more expensive GPS speedo when I did my Speedhut gauges. Once you verify that it sends a signal from transmission to electronic speedo, maybe you could add it to our Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts? Will you be able to cover the gauges - or just leave them open underneath the flyscreen?

Just to restate: I believe this brace adds no additional protection to the transmission case in a 2002 and later motorcycle - in fact it won't even fit without welding, which, IMO would be a waste of time. No reason a Tennista to buy one - unless you plan to get an early sport to keep her company.

Feel free to post pics of the Eastern Sierras. I love that place.

Well, since you asked... How about "paranoid-catastrophic"? The factory already did the mod for you by heavily reinforcing two subframes in the 2002 and later models. Just ride it.