Scud

Well, since you asked... How about "paranoid-catastrophic"? The factory already did the mod for you by heavily reinforcing two subframes in the 2002 and later models. Just ride it.

All true. But for the moment, they are super-cheap and readily available from Moto International. *while supplies last* But Cory, the frame on your Rosso Corsa does not have a place to mount the bracket - so you couldn't use it without welding something onto your frame. I think the lower subframe on your bike does a far better job of holding the driveline in place than the little bracket. In short: ride it hard as-is. If you want a little extra assurance, maybe you should check that the tranny top-mount bolt is not over-torqued.

Ah... I missed that. Well, Foto's moved on anyway. For the right price, that bike would clean up pretty easily and it's not missing too many parts.

I used the EBC HH pads, which I think is the same. That's what Gordon at MG Cycle recommended, and where I sourced the pads and rotors. The brakes are butter-smooth now.

When I see something like that it makes me wonder what other silly things might have been done. I think that round chrome thing might be a horn, not a breather vent. Fotoguzzi can inspect it for us.

She's a looker all right. The kind of girl that could make you lose your happy home. Maybe she'd look good where an MZ currently lives? She liked her last trip to the Santa Monica Mountains.

OEM Part Name: Brembo Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit - Front and Rear Moto Guzzi Part Number: (I couldn't find a part number for the rebuild kit) Replacement Part Brand or Source: Powerhouse-UK (also an eBay seller) Part number or other identifier: I didn't see part numbers, but they have recently listed Moto Guzzi V11s so you can search by model. Differences from OEM (if any): these are aftermarket seals, not genuine Brembo. But the Brembo ones are difficult to find and this seems like a high-quality vendor. Here are links to 5 different kits they have identified for Moto Guzzi V11 calipers: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a3e17cb35 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item238f4fecaf http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25e1581b5d http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a90062a13 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item238f503615 I just installed a front kit for two calipers (8 hydraulic seals, 8 dust seals, 2 O-rings, 4 copper crush washers, 2 bleeders, 2 bleeder caps) and am pleased with the outcome. I have not used the rear kit yet, but member Cabernet has and he said it worked well. The instructions on the kit say to use brake fluid or rubber grease when inserting the pistons into the new seals - but they supplied a small packet of brake assembly fluid. I decided to use Red Rubber Grease for assembly and it worked well.

I have never seen a Rosso Mandello, but my understanding is that the frame and 3 subframes are the same as all the other red-frame bikes - just painted black for this special edition. Therefore this failure would not necessarily be relevant to the 2002 and later models.

I would ride it for the rest of the season and then pull the transmission out from the back. If you split the cases, you will know for sure if it is cracked. If it's cracked, you can ask a welder for advice. Or could buy a used case or complete tranny. If you can't find a local one, I have a spare black (smooth finish) tranny from a 2004. I would also install the tranny to frame brace. There is a limited supply of NOS braces available - I just bought one from Moto International. I assume TLM can find one for you.

Yeah - aluminium carriers. And I think the friction ring probably weighs a bit less too, due to the scallops that are cut in. I wish I had thought to weigh them, but I do recall thinking they were noticeably lighter than the worn take-offs. Just went for little night romp in the canyon. They feel great. I'm not sure how much of it is due to the new rotors and pads, but I assume a lot of the improved feel is due to new seals in the calipers and buffing the pistons with a scotch-brite pad. I also liked the idea of the rubber grease on the pistons to keep them moving freely out - and especially back in. Makes me want to rebuild some more calipers. And have I mentioned that Dunlop Roadsmart IIIs are my new favorite tire?

Wow, that looks like a great deal for a low-mile, well-equipped bike. Ohlins shock, Mistral Carbon exhaust, older headers (no crossover), bar-end mirrors, wide footpegs, different horn. Downside appears to be: missing the pillion seat cover. Go have a look - but don't let them take your DR650.

I don't think it would be too hard to fit brackets for a bar-mounted light and flyscreen - a member is parting out a greenie right now, so you might be able to get the whole assembly including the sturdier metal headlight bucket. You'd have the front crossover exhaust pipe as a potential failure, but you can fit headers from earlier bikes without the crossovers.

Yeah, crispy candy apple green tart she is... and she may still swipe the FBF crossover.

8 months since I've updated this thread. Meanwhile, a Greenie has moved in, which prompts a search for the LeMans' next owner. But the brakes were pulsing and the rotors were at minimum spec and I cannot, in good conscience, try to sell a bike with bad brakes. So I just put on some EBC rotors... damn, they're gorgeous. And rebuilt the calipers. This will probably NEVER be this clean again. And I put all the original glossy black body panels back on, and restored a few other mods back to stock (cuz the greenie swiped some of the bling...) While we're talking brake caliper rebuilds... We had some exchange of opinions on a different thread recently: what to use as lube when putting pistons back in the calipers. I did a little reading after that and decided to use Red Rubber Grease. Interestingly, the instructions that came with the seal kit specified to use brake fluid or rubber grease... yet an envelope of brake assembly fluid was included in the package. After assembly and bleeding the system I was convinced that there was still air in the lines, because the lever felt spongy. But I rode it in the neighborhood to seat the pads and it is firming up and the brakes are starting to bite. So I will treat it super carefully for a little while longer.

Glad you stopped the major leakage and made it home without incident. Must've been damn hot on I-10. It looked like it might also be about time for a new timing cover gasket and cam position sensor O-ring. Try to find the metal timing cover gasket, because the paper ones tear and are the cause of many leaks.

If your tank has a raised rubber tank pad (or carbon fiber in the case of Scuras) then the bike has an external fuel pump. If your fuel door is flush with the top surface of the tank, the bike has an internal fuel pump. Up to 2002 all bikes had external pumps. 2003 was the transition - the Sports had externals and the LeMans had internals. I believe all 2004s have internal pumps.

I don't always listen to Black Sabbath, but when I do... so do the neighbors. I just chanced upon this amazing live performance from 1970. Wow. I like it better than the studio version, which is saying a lot.

It seems that the braided steel covered, 12mm fuel line that goes from the petcock to the external fuel pump is not available from dealers. I was surprised at how difficult it was to have one made - and even went to a local speed shop - where I almost succeeded. But then the special clamps wouldn't work... long story... So here's what finally worked: 12mm fuel line. This stuff is hard to find in the US. 1/2-inch is the closest, at 12.7mm, and the stuff at the hot rod shop was 11.something... I found a 10-foot roll of true 12mm line on Amazon. 3/4 inch hot rod sleeve by Heatshield Products (to fit the 20mm outside diameter of the 12mm fuel line - this is rated up to some very high temperature that I hope my motorcycle will never see. 1 1/2 inch rubber heat shrink ends by Heatshield Products (they have a 3:1 shrink ratio). At first, these ends seemed like they were way too big, but they shrunk right down with the heat gun and made a nice, thick protective end. The rubber ends are much thicker, and I hope more durable, than the ends on the original hose. BTW, I used the big socket to roll the ends of the heat shrink flat where they wrap around the cut end of the sleeve. I had to buy 10 feet of the line and the sleeve. The heat shrink ends came in an 8-pack, which will do 4 lines. I installed one of these on my Greenie and have been riding it for a while now. The line on the Greenie had rotted on the inside, and rubber debris clogged the fuel pump inlet, causing unhappiness. I just made this line for my Scura. If I buy some more ends, I can make at least 8 more lines. I'd be willing to sell them for $27.00 including US shipping. That will cover my costs and net me two free fuel lines for my effort. Send me a PM if you want one.

The thread on WG has been pretty busy, but I thought I'd post my pics here too. I swung by Friday evening on the Greenie to say hi and see when people wanted to ride on Saturday. It may have been Friday the 13th... but 3 Scuras on a Saturday Morning... that's dark. Two other V11s: Some twisties... Great people... And a few of the many bikes that caught my eye.

So... the original dash for that bike would have been a brushed aluminum with silver light cover. It also would have been mounted with two screws, not three. That means somebody has replaced not just the dash panel, but all the mounting brackets behind it. Why? Could be personal preference... or could be to repair damage.

For $3,400, I think you could find one that is all original if you are patient. That motor looks like it might have the 2002 fuzzy/crinkle paint. And it's not just the motor, it's the transmission too. If you really like that one, be sure you are satisfied with the explanation about the motor and tranny before buying it - cuz you'll have to convincingly tell that story again if you ever want to sell it.

I took the lens from the stash leftover from my 2002 parts bike. But Harper's show part #02781101 available for $8.00. My 2002 Scura has the same "jeweled" part and I got used to them. When I got the Greenie, the lights seemed dim by comparison (especially in sunlight). Now they are the same.

Wow. That sounds great. I hope you get a chance for a good ride soon. Can you share some details about the fuel pump you got from the auto shop? What it an exact fit? Did you get a make/model of car that it's compatible with - or a part number?

I never understood why people were concerned that the lights weren't bright enough, till I got my 2000 Sport. The color part on the 2000 is a flat sheet of plastic with small line-drawings that allow light through the black. The 2002 lights have the same pattern as the 2000, but the colored part is textured like a tail-light lens and is much brighter. In 2003, the light pattern is different, so only the 2002 part will work on the red-frame bikes. So... I just swapped the part out and my lights are now super-bright. Just went for a night-time beer run. The lights are so bright, that I might even spray some lens tint over the high beam indicator.

Not totally generic, but I just installed the aftermarket pump from MG cycle, which I think is a generic pump. Any pump with 12mm inlet and 8mm outlet would probably work in a pinch. OEM Part Name: External Fuel Pump Moto Guzzi Part Number: 29107261 Replacement Part Brand or Source: MG Cycle Part number or other identifier: MG Cycle uses the Guzzi part number. But I found the same pump on Amazon and E-bay with part number HFP-603MG Differences from OEM (if any): a bit longer than OEM, so you can trim a bit of fuel line. It's not wrapped in rubber, so you will need a bit of rubber (I used old inner tube) to fit the original clamps. Website link for source: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=2491