Scud

Might you be able to borrow a speedo from somebody else's bike and temporarily install it? That would give you till the next inspection to find a permanent solution. You could also buy a Speedhut gauge, which will fit in the stock bucket with a bit of work.

I put my KTM 950 Adventure up some wretched single track - but I would not want to take it in mud, sand, or deep snow by myself. There was a KTM 950 Super-Enduro for about two years. It weighed even less and now is sort a cult-bike, commanding near-new prices. I rode with a guy a few times who rode his Super Enduro like it was a 250cc 2-stroke. The new 1090 KTM might be as good as the 950/990 series - they scaled back from the 1190s after the Honda's Africa Twin planted a flag in the 1000cc ADV spot that KTM left open. I think there are true adventure bikes, and there are adventure-styled bikes. Just as there are SUVs that are neither Sporty, nor Utilitarian... just Vehicles.

That's a cool bike (the MM, not the SV). The clutch slave looks very similar to the V11...

It had a nice long soak in hot soapy water... and all the injector fittings visited the ultrasonic cleaner.

Thanks for all the ideas. It seems to me that the only useful diagnosis available at this point will be through disassembly. I previously ran it with the covers off and couldn't figure out what the problem was. And no, Chuck, I didn't put hydro lifters. I'll start on the right, since that seems to be the source of the noise.

JB - we both live within an hour's ride of Husqvarna USA HQ. There are at least three dealers within an hour of me (cuz I live in motorcycle heaven). I sat drooled on a new 701. I've seen a few on the street (mostly the Supermoto) - but have never seen a rally-modified Enduro in person.

Yeah, this sounds way worse than Tinus' bike, and not like an exhaust leak. Engine sound is unchanged with clutch in. Clutch and transmission work well. Engine sound is constant while riding - but I only went up and down the street at low revs. Somebody inquired about buying it, so I wanted to be clear about what's going on with this engine. I assume the first step would be to pull the RH head and barrel (with piston)? From there, can I remove the pushrods and lifters - and see the cam lobes?

I've posted about this in the Champagne Wishes project thread, but here's a summary of the issue: Engine is from a crashed bike that I parted out. It had only 12,000 miles. I've had the heads and barrels and pistons out. I believe everything is assembled correctly, but I am quite capable of making mistakes. I've done a leak-down test with satisfactory results. I've adjusted valves from too loose to almost too tight and the noise remains about the same. Tinus89 solved a rattle by removing a check ball in the breather system. I have not seen such a part, but I am struggling with a similar sound. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19627 Since it's hard to diagnose from just one video, here is the Greenie, followed by the Champagne LeMans - both running under same conditions in so you can compare sounds. What do you all think?

This is a fantasy bike for me... A Husky 701 with a rally tower. http://www.nomad-adv.com/husqvarna-701-nomad.html A stock 701 is a few pounds lighter than a DR650 and will beat it easily in any performance comparison. It's only about 70 pounds heavier than my TE450.

Safe travels. I did confused about the ride/fly situation - I thought that was your Norton. Still sounds like a great adventure. Looking forward to more pics at your convenience.

Yeah, there are probably 10 in the US, since they were never imported - but I saw a lot of them in Europe recently. You can find some older V-twin Honda Transalps in the US.

Yeah, that's the weak spot. It occurred to me that some transmission cracks could be caused by over-tightening the nut on the top-mount bolt that you pointed out. It's a Ny-lock nut, so it's not going to rattle off. I only snugged it up. I also think the cracks (which are most common at the LH side of the upper transmission mount that bolt goes through) can be due to torque reaction while running. The Greenie was running very poorly when I got it and I noticed how the whole engine seemed to twist in the frame when I blipped the throttle. In later years, the front subframe frame is beefier, but I think the most significant change was the addition of a diagonal brace from lower RH porkchop to LH porkchop where the shock reservoir mounts (the brace that also makes it impossible to remove the clutch slave). That brace is exactly at the right angle to stop the torque reaction I noticed in the unbraced greenie. I think the brace I just added also serves to stabilize the whole drivetrain against the torque reaction against the frame. Now the tranny is mounted to frame at three points instead of two. If I recall correctly, this was Docc's experience too - the brace was added to his bike on warranty after a problem and he's had many miles since with no tranny leakage problems.

Good eye. I thought they were different than the black ones, but I hadn't figured out how. The titanium color is a little darker than the dash and triple clamp. The silver might be closer if you care about that. But I think the titanium might be go well with the Tenni's tank color. Here's the detail I copied from my order confirmation e-mail: Bike : Ducati 748 UP TO 1998 [DB-12/DC-12] Length : Short Levers Lever Color: : Titanium Adjuster Color: : Black

Ohlins, Titanium Kit Racing exhaust... those are plusses. But why the repaint, bar end mirrors, and new exhaust? Has it been down? A broken rear brake pedal says "yes." Odd that a dealer would offer a bike with a broken brake pedal. Proceed with ultra-caution on that Scura - and budget a clutch replacement.

Today, I removed this sticker. After 17 years, the paint is a little different underneath - but I'll cover it up with a tank protector soon. While I was at it, I installed this NOS transmission bracket, which I picked up from Moto International for cheap. This is to prevent the transmission case from cracking. It's rather tricky to get tools on the upper fasteners, but easier with the fuel pump out of the way. I installed the aftermarket fuel pump, which MG Cycle promotes as a plug-n-play. That's almost true, it's a bit longer the the original pump so I shortened the line to the filter. It also requires a little creativity to mount. I just wrapped it in some old inner tube to get the right thickness. I also made a fuel supply line. Surprising how hard it is to find true 12mm fuel line. The heat sleeve and rubber shrink ends are by HeatShield Products. I'm pleased with how it turned out and need to add one of these black lines to the Scura. And while I was doing all that, the postman brought a little package from MotoMummy - Pazzo levers. Titanium color shortys with black adjusters. MotoMummy sells a pair for $150 with free shipping. That's $50 less than most places. Test ride for fish tacos at sunset...

All the best on the return trip. Will you spend the extra by finding something interesting on the way home... like the long way through the Rockies?

IMO, it's only an ADV bike if: Knobby tires on spoked wheels You can crash it in the dirt or bounce it off a tree and not care It weighs closer to 500 pounds than 600 (and ideally less than 500) It has serious suspension travel You can take it on intermediate to difficult technical terrain Your buddies on "real" dirt bikes make you pose for "embarrassing" photos if you get stuck on something simple (like this trench I dug with the rear wheel).

How about some studded ones? http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Ducati_Front_Studded_Pegs.html I think our pegs are compatible with Ducati Monsters.

I've lubed a few of these, and each one allows grease to escape in the same area. I think it's by design. If you put too much grease and it can't escape then you are changing the alignment of the whole drive system.

Used crankcase breather hose and zip ties? Seriously - maybe something from an ADV bike. But I don't have the answer.

Seems like a lot of extra work to pull the arms for that test. I did this test recently, but at TDC following these steps: raise the rear wheel (using factory stand) put bike in gear, turn rear wheel to find TDC (spark plugs out). lower bike (still in gear) then pressurize cylinder with tester The wheel on the ground eliminates the risk of piston movement. You don't even have to take the valve covers off to do it this way - because if piston is at top, you either get some pressure (valves closed) or no pressure (valves open). You can put light pressure into the cylinder at step 2 above to verity that it's at TDC. If you guessed wrong, spin the wheel again. There are plenty of videos of leakdown tests on YouTube. If you buy a leak down tester, it will probably come with useful instructions. I got the OTC Cylinder Leakage Tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030EVL60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Send me a message with your address. You can keep it. But I might redeem it for a beer next time I'm in NYC. BTW, the axle form the 2002 bike takes a 10mm hex wrench. The axle on my 2000 Greenie takes an 8mm.

I had a KTM 950 Adventure for a while. A very good motorcycle in all types of terrain, but a bit thirsty and a bit tedious to work on. I traded it in when I got my Scura, but sometimes I miss the KTM. I've been eying the Africa Twin - but also thinking that a Husqvarna 701 might work. After all, people tour all over on KLR 650s. The Husky 701 is so good off road that it could potentially replace my TE450 Husqvarna. Then there is the new Yamaha T7... which I suppose will be available as a 2018 model? I've rented a BMW GS twice. They're great road bikes and were perfect for the dirt roads I took them on, but they're just too big for the sort of technical dirt riding (rocks, roots, ruts, etc.) that I would want to do as part of a proper "adventure."

Good news. And where is that rattling check-valve, exactly? I'd like to try that test on my noisy champagne LeMans. Bad news. A leak-down test will tell you more about the condition of the rings than a compression test. You need an air compressor and leak-down tester - or you could have a shop do this simple test. With a leakdown test, you can hear exactly where the compressed air is escaping and know for sure if it is rings, intake valve, or exhaust valves. And if it runs fine... ride it. Wrench when winter comes.

Public service announcement: A limited supply of transmission brackets is available. I just got this one delivered from Moto International. It cost $14.63 plus $4.00 shipping, no mounting hardware included. They could not tell me how many were available, only that they are limited. LowRyter and his mechanic, Don, fabricated one for him and decided to make a batch to sell. I've been trying to buy one for a while, but they were still not ready when I happened to notice they were available on Moto International's website. Don's brackets will be more expensive, but they will be powdercoated red and come with mounting hardware.