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Scud

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Everything posted by Scud

  1. That picture at valpolini looked is exactly like the aluminum flywheel and clutch assembly I took out of my Scura - and does not look like the Ram unit I installed; which has a steel flywheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. The red on the 2002 LeMans is a great color. If you can match it, I think that would be perfect for the belly pan. Then all the bike's leading edges will be red - front fender, fairing, and belly pan.
  3. Clean and re-assemble is a good plan. That safety washer was damaged, and therefore should be replaced. For what it's worth, when my LeMans clutch started slipping, I installed new friction plates, springs, and intermediate plate. I just roughed up the pressure plate and friction surface of the starter ring with coarse sandpaper. But in retrospect, I could have gotten away with only replacing 5 springs. The friction plates still had life in them. I think that alternating 5 original and 5 heavy springs would have extended the life of the original parts significantly. Re flywheel bolts - I've heard that you should not re-use them. I don't know if that's true - or just people repeating gossip... but like you said, new fasteners are cheap. I think I may have 5 heavy springs I can send you - but not till Saturday. But they're only like $2.00 each at MG Cycle. You can also get a new intermediate plate for about $25. That will give you two fresh surfaces.
  4. And of course a new "star" washer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. So... after all this discussion about possible replacements I'll just throw in what I would do if this was my bike: new seals where leaking, 5 new stiffer clutch springs (alternate with 5 originals), new throwout bearing (preventative measure). From there, measure the other clutch internals - and run them as-is if possible. I've seen pictures of much worse input hubs and flywheels. You can always do a complete replacement later - during the winter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. If you are still intrigued by the RAM, you should talk to Gordon at MG Cycle. The current friction plate is totally different than it was some years ago. I'm happy with mine so far, but the long-term test has only just begun.
  7. Docc, you can read me? Don't go this route. The standard V11 clutch assembly is already on the (lower) edge mass-wise. If you want to put some more dynamics into your ride then better invest in lighter wheels. These infact are too massy. Engine braking will not be reduced, it will be increased. Pulse loads on the drive train won't be reduced, they'll be increased. Clutch problems wont be reduced - think you get the picture from here on. Idle won't be improved. Spare situation won't be improved.... Instead, IAEF, I'd investigate possibilities to switch to heavier LMIII assemblies for instance. Guzziology quotes a fast bike that uses an old Eldo clutch, that's maybe twice the weight of a V11 one. He seemed quite happy with it. Or you just stick the parts together and have fun with your V11 as it is. Don't know why this option usually is so grossly underestimated. Good point that last one. The problem was a loose input hub. Fasten it correctly and ride it. You would not have taken it apart just now if it wasn't for that problem. Maybe toss in some fresh clutch springs since you're there. I rather like the RAM clutch, however. And they do make replacement friction plates that are the same for 5 and 6 speed clutches. Engine braking is a function of compression, not clutch mass. Clutch mass effects how quickly everything settles in. Lower mass gives you a quicker response to changes.
  8. Ha... this gets confusing, huh? It'd be easier if we were sitting around a table with all the parts spread out - and if there was still some room on the table for I got one of the last 6-speed Ram Clutches, so my spare input gear is for a 6-speed.
  9. Or maybe you are the first person in the whole world to connect GuzziDiag while the transmission is out of the bike...
  10. I'm in Milwaukee, WI without my V11. Nuthin but cars and Harley's. I like that Jackal too. Let's pool our spare time and money and build a JackMans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I'm no machinist, but I do wonder if the push-button can be machined without being removed. I have a spare input gear that came with my Ram clutch. Didn't use it because the one in Scura was still good. If you get this figured out I'd like a matching set for future use. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. An alternative is to ream out the RAM's 5-speed clutch button to accommodate the 6-speed rod. If a machinist has both parts in-hand, they will know what to do. Yet another alternative is to somehow get hold of a RAM 6-speed push button and replace the 5-speed. I think these are pressed into the RAM clutches.
  13. I like how you can see where the Roper plate was installed...
  14. How about black for the flyscreen, tank, seat, cowl, front fender, rear fender, footpegs and hangers, side panels, tank pad, brake lever, brake cover... and delete the lollipop mirrors. Scura-er!!!
  15. That pretty much sums up what I believe, but have never actually done.
  16. I have the aftermarket RAM with steel flywheel in my Scura. Several others have installed it too. Lucky Phil has one in reserve for an upcoming project. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19510 The RAM 6-speed kit was discontinued for lack of 6-speed input hubs from Moto Guzzi. The 5-speed clutch is identical to the 6-speed, with the exception of the button that the pushrod goes into. I have not seen the 5-speed myself, but that is the essence of what I understand.
  17. Good technical discussion. The way I see it, noise = wear. So if you hear noise, you think about what is wearing. When the clutch lever is in (for a standard dual plate clutch), then the following parts can rattle around inside the flywheel: two friction plates, one intermediate plate, and to a lesser extent, one pressure plate. I say to a lesser extent on the pressure plate because it is not totally free due to the extra compression on the springs. There are several areas of potential impact - the outer gears of the pressure plate and intermediate plate against the flywheel, the inner gears of the friction discs against the transmission input hub, and all the loose plates against each other. When the clutch lever is released, everything snugs up and moves as one unit - no impact, no noise, no clutch wear. Then we have the question of what is spinning. When the clutch lever is in, the tiny throwout bearing carries the load of all 10 clutch springs. When the clutch lever is out (and transmission in neutral) the engine's power just goes the main transmission shaft, which is carried by two massive roller-bearings. IMO, keeping the clutch pulled in a idle does three bad things - increase wear on the clutch, increase strain on the throwout bearing, prolong the strain on the seals in master and slave cylinders. I think that letting the main transmission shaft spin at idle (in neutral) is a non-event. That shaft spins full time when the bike is in motion. A clutch is designed for short-duration use - a transmission for continuous-use. Perhaps we can have another discussion about why single-plate clutches are noisy when the lever is released, and quiet down when the lever is pulled in.
  18. A V11 6-speed hub for single plate is the only option. As I understand it Moto Guzzi supplied the hubs to Ram. But then Moto Guzzi stopped making them.
  19. Docc - I think the "specs" are if you have all the parts in-hand and you show them to the machine shop and say: "Make this go in there." There's a little "risk" in the conversion, but I think it's manageable. If I had to replace my LeMans clutch over again, I would have tried the RAM 5-speed unit with a RAM 6-speed hub.
  20. That's a good idea. I liked the red rim tape I put on originally, but it hasn't held up well. Maybe gloss black like the photo...
  21. Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure the sticker says it's a 15M. But I just looked at my notes and when I plugged in GuzziDiag, it thinks it's a 15RC. That seems to suggest that somebody messed with the ECU. Wish I was home to try a swap, but I'm sitting in an airport. Stay tuned. Pun intended.
  22. Thanks - hopefully I can get it run as good as it's starting to look. I did a leak-down test and both cylinders are sealing well. Whatever the problem is, I'm leaning toward electrical stuff, because I am ruling out so much else. Will an ECU from a 2002 bike work in a 2000? Swapping ECUs would be a pretty easy test. I'll the gamut of electrical tests in a week or so.
  23. I recall that thread and have tried to re-find it a couple times. I think the member is located in Europe and that he only had to have a small bit machined off the clutch end of the pushrod in order to fit into a slightly smaller push-button. I also think there is not "correct part" to be sourced - all because the 5-speed and 6-speed used different size buttons in the clutches. I also think it was for a Rosso Mandello. Parts list: Ram 5-speed clutch Throwout bearing (since you're there) Shop to modify a pushrod (I have a spare pushrod that I will donate to the cause) RAM 6-speed input hub (or take-off from Scura/Tenni/Rosso Mandello) If you could re-find that thread or document this yourself, it would save future owners of unconverted single-plate bikes a lot of trouble - and provide a less-expensive, better shifting option for other high-mileage bikes facing 100% clutch part replacement.
  24. That looks like the one - for the same price as a used clutch. If you go that way, get the schnor washers for the flywheel bolts. I would also replace the throwout bearing while your there. And more one thing - MG Cycle has two different pushrods for 5-speed transmission. Maybe one of those would work (or be easier to modify) than the 6-speed pushrod.
  25. Ooooohhhhh....... That is the missing link to make a 5-speed RAM clutch work with a 6-speed gearbox. The RAM clutch is ONE part, fully assembled and balanced. Just bolt it up, and potentially have a pushrod modified... That's instead of: flywheel, pressure plate, springs (10), friction discs (2), intermediate plate, starter ring, and you needed an input hub anyway. Major time savings and you get a crisper engagement and an easier lever pull. You gotta seriously consider the RAM at this point.
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