Scud

Some links to pics or Red LeMans with silver wheel in the gallery (sorry, but I couldn't figure out how to make them display): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1864 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=51 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=81 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=80 Nothing wrong with the current color though.

How is the condition of the transmission input shaft - where the loose input hub makes contact?

Well, yeah... Obviously, the Scura's wheels are not going to be silver. But I saw a pic in the gallery of a Red LeMans with silver wheels and it looked quite good. The gun-metal grey I did on the BMW is much darker than the its original wheels, but still a couple shades lighter than the gray LeMans wheels. Just thinking...

Yeah. I'm gonna be in WI and MI for a week. The greenies rolling so now we can get the new Subaru out of the sun. I'm using Docc's son's new service. Imgzeit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the sport fairing at that link (have to scroll down). But the fairing for the older California models at the top of the page is clearly a case of form following function.

Yesterday I changed three tires. Replaced the Greenie's 180 with a 160 - and a pair of tires for my K75s. I got the little brick's wheels powder-coated in gun-metal grey, which looks nice with the blue. And it got me thinking... since I may need brake rotors for the LeMans soon, that would be the time to refresh the wheels and maybe change the color. Here's the gun-metal grey wheel from the BMW up front, and the silver rear wheel from the Greenie. What do you think?

Thanks for the sketch Roy. It's gonna be at least a week till I get to play with it, because I've got some work travel coming up. Good tip on the paint - I'll file that away for future reference. But yesterday I got her back into the "roller" state so my wife's car can be in the garage again. And a couple close-up pics:

More fun than Legos.

I'm not sure that input hub has to come off. Looks pretty good to me.

Haha - that's how it's done. Are you going to cut a notch out of the collar for future access? Nice copper hammer.

My first bike was a 1972 CB 350-Four. A few years ago I found another, very clean one. It was not nearly as fast as I remember it being... Everytime I rode it I just wanted to flog it, and decided that was a bad idea. Couldn't bear the thought of modifying such a sweet original bike, so I sold it to a collector. I like the period-mod idea, but I might not even be worried about being period-correct. Do a functional-mod-with-patina and enjoy it. If you feel like restoring it, do it over the winter.

Just piling on... don't convert the Tenni to track use (for all of the above reasons). But how cool to have #1 and #3. If you're a rider, not a collector, then at some point a collector will want to give you more than it's worth to you as a rider. Then you could buy the LeMans of your choice and still have a fine rider and some leftover cash.

Not a V11, but Griso for $2,500. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/6215320455.html

Thanks for that website. I just scrolled through it and noticed that they sell a new transmission case (I mention it, since it you had to weld yours recently.) @Blight - the Sport is looking sweet. Will be fun to see it in red. My transmission case was never welded.... what gives? That comment was directed at LowRyter, who went through a rough process getting his cracked case welded. Pardon the confusion and off-topic post. Keep up the good work on your project.

Thanks for that website. I just scrolled through it and noticed that they sell a new transmission case (I mention it, since it you had to weld yours recently.) @Blight - the Sport is looking sweet. Will be fun to see it in red.

I have a RH from a 2002 (no crossover) and a pair from an early Sport with the "Crown" type of flanges and the little insert bits.

Get yourself a pdf of the spare parts diagram (see fileshare section of this forum). Go into Section C (pages C13 and C14 specifically) for the details of the transmission. There are four selector cogs - attached to the four shift arms. Two are single-sided (part number 8 with cogs on one side and flat on the other) - two are double-sided (part number 2 with cogs on both sides). So there are six faces with cogs that engage each of the six drive gears (labeled in diagram on those pages). In neutral, none of the cogs are engaged. When you study the diagram, you can see which cog engages which gear. If you manually engage more than one gear at a time the tranny will lock up (as you experienced). Armed with that diagram, you should be able to run through all the gears just by moving the cogs by hand. If you can't then you have a potentially serious problem. But if you can shift through all gears, the problem is probably with the pre-selector and you should consult the "shift-improvement" thread.

And I think Benelli also copied the Honda 350-Four engine (which was my first motorcycle). Looks like three carbs on the Benelli-6. Careful on placing too much credibility on the price the "first-winner" was going to pay. Shill-bidding is sometimes used to drive up perceived value and re-list the bike. If it's in town and you really want it, go visit with cash in hand.

That's a helluva lotta clutch command cylinders. The used one started it's life on Unkept's Champagne LeMans... got replaced in my garage... visited Andy for a while... and now it's with the good doctor. What a long strange trip it's been... Careful with the acid; don't drop it.

That's a cool vintage bike - not too many inline 6 bikes around. Was it made before or after the Honda CBX?

Do what Czakky says first. If that doesn't solve it, here's a little more guidance on looking at the tranny: By disassembled, do you mean you have removed the side cover (shift pre-selector) from the tranny - but the rest of the bike is intact? If so, get the rear wheel off the ground and move the shift arms on the shafts so you can see how they engage each gear. It will take a little studying - perhaps of the parts manual illustration of the gears - but you should be able to put it in each gear manually. You'll also want to take the spark plugs out so you can turn the wheel while it's in gear and see what's going on in there - might need two people. A wheel turner and a gear watcher.

Just send an e-mail to info@grimeca.it If you click the UK flag, the website changes to English.

Hey, that reminds me of something. I had a dragging brake on my truck. The problem turned out to be in the brake line. A little flap had developed inside the line, just enough to act like a one-way valve. Replaced the flexible lines with new stainless and the drag went away.

I posted over on WG too - but thanks again for coordinating this. So many great loops of varying lengths can started from that location. Desert? check. Mountains? check. Beach? check. Mexico? check. All in a day's ride.

Thanks. That leaves 2 available from me - plus whatever Mike Haven might still have on-hand.