Scud

Alrighty then... time for deep cleaning. I always siphon the gas out of the tank to make it easier to handle. Fuel filter is probably the original. I just replace mine with WIX 33310 - only $11 at auto parts store. How many tools does it take to change a light bulb?

I'm enjoying your enthusiasm. So... why do you need the power to heated grips to be switched? I pulled a set of Oxford grips off a different bike and they were wired to directly to the battery. Why not tap into the charging/accessory cable that you've already run to the front? If you want it switched, you could install a relay at the connection - you'd just need to find a switched source to trigger the relay. While you're wiring, it's a good precaution to add a supplemental ground to your voltage regulator. I split the ground wire of the battery tender cable and grounded it to the frame, then ran a supplemental ground to the regulator. Now the regulator has a direct ground to the battery that is outside the main wire harness. Some harnesses have melted from the standard ground wire overheating.

Rox - it's a 2000. The early seat pan from the Corbin was too much work to make fit your 2002 bike, right? Bummer. Docc - have you found a good frame touch-up paint? I saw something about a tool-box red available in the UK, but I couldn't find it for sale in the US. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17330 The frame just has one chip near the steering bearing and the tabs are rusty where they connected to the rotted-out battery tray. Otherwise, the frame looks near new... all naked in the California sun and not afraid to flaunt it...

I have four Roper Plates remaining from the recent batch I got from Pete. They are $115 including USPS flat-rate shipping in the US. Gaskets not included - just the plate. Member Mike Haven also has some available. Details in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19423&p=219398 Send me a message if you want one. I prefer check or PayPal as a friend to avoid incurring extra fees.

Um... do you have some kind of Moderator Super Prescience? And FYI - I think I have removed four of these from 2002/03 bikes. They all had the same brown stuff on them - so perhaps assembly methods were not consistent at the factory over the red-frame and black-frame years.

I kind of like that one - mostly because of the raw, home-made feel and the exposed frame. However, I do not see it as improvement over the original design. And for the same money and less time he could have bought a world-class suspension had a better bike. Can't believe somebody would do that much work and leave the stock shock on...

I've removed a few recently and they all had some hardened brown crap on them. I reassembled only with the (new and round) O-ring, no sealant.

Yes... but the suspense will keep building because today was for riding (Scura) and housework. Tomorrow is a BMW-blast up the freeway to Los Angeles for work on Tuesday.

This, by the way, is "normal" for the rare single-plate clutch. If the noise stops when you pull the clutch in, you have the original, single-plate clutch. A "normal" Guzzi twin-plate clutch makes a ching-ching noise when the lever is pulled in, but is quiet with the lever out.

Try twisting the sensor to free it up. There could be a little adhesive in there, making it difficult to remove. You will not disturb the timing and nothing will fly across the room. Once you get it out, clean the passage, and try putting it back in again, lubed with a little engine oil. If it goes back in easily, it's not swollen - and if that's the case, just replace the O-ring.

Yeah, the stuff is hard to come by. I originally bought a wrecked bike to be sure I would have a complete twin-plate clutch while waiting to see if the RAM 6-speed would become available for my Scura. I think I waited over a year for that while I rode on the original Scura clutch/flywheel. Took a quick 1 mile (elevation) ride today on the Scura before breakfast. Love that light RAM clutch pull in the mountains... Anyway, I offered Dangerous Dave (via PM) what I believe to be a fair or below market price for the kit. And Dave - I found 5 lighter clutch springs. So you just need flywheel bolts/washers. You can re-use the input hub's star-washer if you don't bend the same retaining tab that was previously bent (but I would use a new one).

I do have almost everything needed. Besides what's pictured, you would need: 5 of the softer clutch springs to alternate with the 5 new firm ones 6 flywheel bolts and washers 1 new retaining washer for the transmission input hub The above is at a minimum. The friction discs and intermediate plate have some life left in them, but you might prefer new parts. If you want to do it yourself, you will need a clutch installation/alignment tool (not pictured) Special socket to remove the shallow (single-plate) input hub from your transmission and replace with the deeper (twin-plate) input hub Input hub wrench

It's one of those long complicated stories that adds mystery and intrigue to owning one of the three "special" V11s. Here's a recent chapter from that story: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19510

Swapping for a twin plate is the easiest, and most common solution to this problem. The clutch itself is pretty easy to replace - it's getting access to it that's the hard part. You have to remove either the engine or the transmission - as you'll see when you read the various clutch threads. Your bike (along with Scuras and Tennis) came with a great-performing clutch - attached to a too-soft flywheel. And the problem is actually with the flywheel, not the clutch. The twin plate clutch uses a different flywheel. It will not be quite as crisp when it engages, but the difference is subtle. I think you'd be very happy for a long time with a more durable twin-plate clutch and flywheel. ...and as it happens, I have almost everything you'd need. I'll go double-check my stash.

How do you like the Scura fairing at speed? Are you planning to keep it black? I have a LH rider peg in good condition - looks like you've found everything else.

Here's my trouble-shooting for today: Replaced all four throttle body rubbers, and ran it with the tank from the Champagne bike (needed to wire up an electronic petcock bypass plug so it would run - but did not make a "go-winkie" out of it.) It still had the severe hesitation and cut-out around 3,500 rpm or at about 1/2 throttle. I did notice that the oil light came on at start - and it had not previously come on with the green tank. The PO said he had been working on some trouble with the dash lights. Based on the above I hoped the problem would be a blocked fuel filter. So I replaced it with a Wix 33310 (and a wrap of leftover dirt-bike inner tube to get it to fit in the clamps). While I was in there I also put on a correct breather hose and got rid of all the PO's bright yellow zip ties (replaced with black). Green tank back on... oil light no longer comes on with key... runs even worse... barely starts then dies... put gas in tank... Much better.... But not good enough. It idles OK, but still a little rough. There is still the 3,500 RPM cut-out that makes it unrideable. Next up is electrical stuff - Guzzi Diag, TPS, basic tune-up (but valve adjustment already done). Transmission leak is enough to be concerned about - it's dripping onto the crossover. It seems to be leaking from between the cases. ...and here's a one-man tank-compression installation technique:

I've never tried it, but I'll bet you could rig up some sort of hillbilly thing with air pressure and a gauge to see where it blows off? There's gotta be *some* reason for 2 pumps going tits up. I did this to set the pressure on the aero engine pressure relief valve.. Thanks Chuck - It occurred to me to try the Champagne tank on the Greenie, since I also wanted to see if the manual petcock (Greenie has electric) cures the Greenie's fuel starvation issue. I'm playing Dr. Frankenstien today...

She's cleaning up nicely... cleaning TBs and replacing boots. Gonna try running it with the champagne tank with the manual petcock. It occured to me that the electric petcock might only open partially - which could cause the apparent fuel starvation. Air box and filter are like new - so that's one thing ruled out. The mirrors "fell off" as some chrome Napoleons arrived while I was in NY.

Thanks for the suggestions. I might start looking into the Greenie today. One item of note - it has an electric petcock. Should that be replaced with a manual petcock? (I have one readily available).

Each pump sat with fuel in it for a several hours. I can try the pumps again (maybe with non-flammable diesel this time). Do you know how to test the pressure regulator without fuel? Like, can I use air pressure somehow? (I haven't found anything yet by searching).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh6ATTHsVOo I like how visible all the elements of the frame are on this build. Lots of great details too.

You don't seem boring, therefore, you must be lucky. Happy almost 50th. Time for the 50-year-old-man preventative maintenance checks...

The pump is under the frame - it pumps gas up to the filter, which is on top of the frame. I don't like what I see here... and I'm bummed about leaking gas on a freshly painted (and not yet heat-cured) engine. http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6111.mp4 The fuel is coming up around the electrodes. Both pumps are doing that. I took them off and applied current directly to them. They both pump gas into the measuring cup, but they both leak fuel at the electrodes while doing so. I suppose it's time for a new pump. But I'm concerned that I may have damaged these two somehow - and don't want to ruin a new one. Both pumps came off bikes that were running, both sat for probably at least two years, and both leaked at the first application of current when installed on this bike. Also in common: the hose was kinked between the RH injector and the pressure regulator when I first applied current. Do you think the pumps just happened to fail in the same way from sitting (seems unlikely)... or did I somehow break them both? Is a kinked hose enough to blow out a fuel pump?

Well, I certainly think so. I replaced all the hoses, clamps, and filter on my Scura with no problems. I think I did everything the same here. The leak occurs only with key on. I'm about to go take off the tank and airbox and do a thorough point-to-point inspection and test.