Scud

Have you ever considered one of those zip-up motorcycle storage bags?

It's hard to say for sure from pictures, but you certainly should replace the hose. The hose can be dry on the outside and still cause a problem inside the bell-housing, here's how. Any oil that get between the metal pipe and the rubber hose will go into the bell housing. So if the hose clamp is loose, or there are small internal cracks in the hose, oil can flow outside the tube instead of inside it. When it goes inside (like it's supposed to) it is returned to the sump. When it goes outside the tube (but inside the hose), it will go into the bell housing. If you have not yet cleaned the engine, you could run a cotton swab between the metal tube and the case - go all around the outside of the tube inside the case. If it comes back oily, you know the hose was problem. If it comes back dry - that might be inconclusive if it's been sitting for a while.

The Husky is fun on the street. I whipped through about 30 miles of asphalt including a fun little canyon before draining the oil and swapping tires. I run serious off-road tires that wear quickly on asphalt, so I do stay away from the asphalt when the knobbies are fresh and sharp - but almost every dirt ride includes a little asphalt. I did a good hour on asphalt on the ride back from Grand Canyon that started this thread. Short freeway runs are fine - but depends on gearing. My 510 Husky would do over 100MPH, but then I geared it down so I wouldn't have to slip the clutch so much in technical terrain. Just say no to the KLR 250. You will wring it's spindly little neck and not be happy. A Suzuki DRZ 400 or Honda XR 400 (if you can find one with a license plate) would be a better start. Those are powerful enough to spend a little time on the street and still be competent dirt bikes that are light enough to pick up. There's always the Guzzi Quota to consider... that'll munch miles and would probably do fine on dirt roads and easy trails.

I feel similarly. I'm trusting my life to my own work. So I want it done correctly. Centered is the goal, right? I just lack a good way to measure the clearance between the swingarm and the inside of the porkchop. But I bet I get it very close to center by feel. I've seen posts where people measure how much the pin sticks out of the porckhop and try to replicate that on assembly. But that just puts it back how it was - and does not guarantee that the pins are snug against the bearing's inner races, nor does it pay attention to alignment. If was off center to start, it will be off-center again.

Well, it looks like we answered BBoles' question, so let's talk swingarm alignment. I'm all for doing it right, and willing to learn if I've missed something... and I just happen to have one off the bike that I can play with. I just put the swingarm between the porkchops. With fingers instead of pivot pins, it has a small amount of lateral play. I estimate this as 2 to 3 mm (I had a ruler out to look at, but no third hand to take the measurement.) The pivot pin has to go through the porkchops until the lip at the base of the threads contacts the inner race of the swingarm bearing. Therefore when both pins are in, the swingarm is held in place laterally by the pressure of the 2 pins - and those pins are secured by the big chrome nuts outside the porkchops. I don't think the pivot pins have a recommended torque setting. What I have done is to position the swingarm on pins, then put a hex-wrench in each pin - and turn them both until it rests about in the middle - with approximately equal clearance on each side. Then tighten them and lock them down with the big chrome nuts. Then attach the shock. Let's take my (I think generous) 3mm estimate of total lateral clearance. If the swingarm was exactly centered, that would leave 1.5mm on each side. But even if it was 1mm on one side and 2mm on the other - are we saying that 0.5mm one way or the other makes a practical difference? Again - not to trying to be argumentative. If I am wrong, please explain.

The real risk - if you accidentally step on the "down" lever. Stuff starts moving in an unexpected hurry. Voice of experience. Stop rod = smart = safe.

My Venezuelan brother from another mother... So... wow. The whole upper rear subframe and wiring harness are off. You're not just chasing a leak, are you? It's not much more work to pull the motor, then you can clean up the inside of the bell housing. I can't tell exactly how you are supporting the bike, but you might need a new way to hold up the rear end if you want to remove the transmission. How is the condition of the breather hose from the frame under the steering head to the top rear of the engine case? To Chuck's comment about being overly worried - I would certainly try to follow the flow of oil before pulling the engine and transmission. It's possible that the whole mess is due to a cracked breather hose.

Since this thread turned into a little bit of a "how to get started with a dual-sport" I thought I throw in a little more. The Husky is getting ready for a long President's Day weekend in Flagstaff. It could be snowy, rainy, and muddy and I've got brand new knobbies. If you're serious about getting into this, many dirt bikers (self included) do the majority of home maintenance with only the tools they carry. Today I proved I could change a rear tire with only two tire irons - because I got a Motion-Pro "trail bead buddy." It locks the bead - I was previously holding a third iron with my foot to lock the bead. So I'm stoked and my tool bag will weigh a precious few ounces less. And in the spirit of "enjoying life while you can..." Dual sport riding is a blast. If you're even thinking that you might like to try it - DO. Thump thump thump...

My new release "Human" by Rag 'N' Bone Man arrived yesterday. It's been looping all day... And here's a track I really like... Be the Man. Listen to the words.

Bell Housing. I agree with Marty that oil there is almost certainly due to the breather hose - cracks or the hose clamp is not tight. Once you replace the hose, the remaining oil in there will take a little while to exit, then the leak should stop. Final drive. I would just clean, lube, change the oil, and reassamble. If the problem shows up again, it's easy enough to remove the final drive. Transmissions... not so easy. Transmission. That's a tough one. Some special tools are needed to get the transmission apart. I did this recently in the thread about my Scura. If the breather hose is making a mess, it's possible that turbulence will deposit engine oil elsewhere (like on top of the transmission). The advice to smell the oils is good. If it's stinky gear oil on top, then you may have a problem. How far apart is the bike now?

Oh, sorry to hear that. You started off like a man on a mission... Rest up and don't push yourself. My Scura's steering bearings had very little grease, but I got to them in time. Maybe yours were already done. Joe's (now my) Champagne LeMans' bearings were shot and needed replacing - they were nearly dry. Lubing the bearings is easy (much easier than replacing), but getting to them... well that does a bit of work. And you are already so close. Maybe we need a Fork-off Maintenance Checklist - like Docc's tank-off and wheels-off lists. I like the sound of that... Hey! Fork-Off.

I forget what size that is, but I bought a set of large hex wrenches, one of which fits the front axle and the rear axle. It simplifies rear-wheel removal, because you can apply force in both directions - sort of rocking the axle while sliding it out. Front solid axle is threaded, so ratchet works fine. You gonna lube the steering bearings while you're in there?

I agree with SP - no need to tear down the rear end to change the hydraulic clutch line. But you might want to invest in some short wrenches that are easier to move around in there. Removing the clutch slave cylinder is a different story... and I bet that's what you read about. For your future reference: It's best to separate the two halves of the driveshaft when you remove the final drive - just be sure the shaft is properly aligned when you put it back together. I've never bothered with the precise measurements when installing a swingarm. There's not much room to adjust anyway. I just visually center it, snug everything up and make sure there is still free movement of the swingarm before (and after) applying final torque. Then connect the shock. Inner fender - 6 little screws, you'll figure that out the first time you try. Since the bike is new to you, this might be a good time to lube the three points on the driveshaft (junction and two U-joints).

Hmmm... seems like MG Cycle, and now Harpers, and I'm sure others to follow are just having springs made up since Moto Guzzi is no longer making them. False alarm... nothing more to see here... except those little plastic T's may be hard to find in future.

Thanks Chuck - I bought springs from MG Cycle before, but I had an order going with Harpers already. Interesting that MG Cycle's description calls it an "updated shift return spring." Maybe they've already had some made too.

While getting my order together with Harpers and checking status, learned about 2 parts that are no longer available from Moto Guzzi. One trivial, one important. The trivial one - the plastic T that holds all the warning lights. You know that white T-shaped things that can't seem to hold the threaded inserts and just crumbles when you take it apart? No more of those... This is not too much trouble as they can be repaired with various epoxies, bondo, glues, etc. and they don't have to look good since they are hidden inside the instrument cluster. The important one - the shift pawl spring. I had ordered a full set of springs for the pre-selector on my project. And when I called recently, I learned that the lack of a pawl spring was holding up my whole order. I happened to talk to Curtis Harper - he said that as soon as he learned they were discontinued he set about having a replacement made. I'm sure most of us have a spare spring tucked away somewhere already. But Harpers will have aftermarket springs in stock soon.

I've heard the same - that non-Ohlins, more durable seals don't perform as well. I don't have any experience with it but I just figured I would stay with Ohlins parts and supplies throughout. The fork seals on mine sat unused since new - then I put close to 12,000 miles on in 2 years. I detected only a faint weeping, but went for the full rebuild anyway due to age. My shock seal gave up while I was painting the drivetrain and had easy access (I thought that was courteous of her...). Have you ever serviced the shock?

The Ballabio, Cafe Sport, and Coppa Italia all have headlights and flyscreens that are frame-mounted - so they stick out more than the Scura, whose headlight and flyscreen are mounted to the triple-clamps. I like her better with the LeMans fairing.

The patient appears to be a little chicken. Here's what the Ohlins fork-cap tool looks like. Also pictured is a rod that has threads on the inside to connect to, and remove, the damper rods from the forks. Again - happy to loan these to you.

Looking good - so the 2002 red from the Red and Grey LeMans was the same as the red used on the Coppa Italia? It looks close, if not identical, in the picture.

No, sorry - my order hasn't arrived yet. And I'm going to be away early next week.

Ok, thanks again. I'm surprised at the lack of info on this site. Probably everyone already knows how to do it, but I'm going to do a blind leading the blind thread. This way, if I'm screwing up, somebody will save me, and everybody will learn. Cool - I watched some youtube videos on rebuilding Ohlins forks. I know there are some good threads here on doing the Marzocchis. I was thinking about doing my own rebuild - I called Dan Kyle and said "Sell me everything I need to rebuild my forks." That's how I got the seals and oil (and special tool). But I ended up just taking the forks and supplies to an Ohlins specialist at Moto Forza (local Ducati dealer). Next time, I'll follow your instructions.

Well, we do have a good Guzzi dealer in downtown San Diego - GP Motorcycles. And there are others in Orange and Los Angeles County to the North. It's just a question of whether the Northern part of San Diego County can support a Guzzi dealer. GP and Moto Forza both carry Ducati and Husqvarna.

Our 2011 Mazda CX-9 is on it's way out after 80,000 miles with nothing needed but oil changes, tires, brakes, and some recall thing that the dealer handled. We got a 2017 Subaru Forester Limited. Very nicely equipped, good fuel economy, full-time AWD, continuously variable transmission, all kinds of cool stuff. That's our new family car - and I won't have to touch it for at least 2 years because all maintenance is included for 2 years. I went to pick up some rubber floor mats at the Subaru dealer today. And there was a nice silver V7 in the lot. I was wearing a Moto Guzzi T-shirt. Had a nice chat with the V7 owner, who is super happy with his V7 - but mad at the Escondido dealer for no longer carrying Moto Guzzi. It's a long-term BMW dealer, and they had Guzzi only for a short time. I hope Moto Forza, the Ducati/Husqvarna dealer around the corner picks up Guzzi instead.

Just get the Ohlins fluid. It says part number 1309-01.