Scud

Yes to most of the above, even though the pins are worn (threads seemed clean enough to me). Plus new copper crush washers at banjo bolts. Brembo replacement pins are surprisingly expensive. I found an aftermarket set of titanium pins: https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Brake-Caliper-Brembo-Pack/dp/B00APO1V5Y/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZHF6JHDDY3SF2GZB2Y7Y I might put these on the Scura and let the project benefit from "trickle-down-economics."

Funny interpretation Docc. That's a woodworking bench and it does sort of look like a cutting board in that picture. And that's Joe's old flannel shirt. He wrapped a bunch of parts in clothes before he shipped the project to me. I'm doing this project in the "small" garage. My house has a 3-car garage - split into a 2-car (but truly a 1-car with bicycles and surfboards) and a 1-car (aka 4-motorcycle). The Scura project recently hogged the 2-car for months - and she had to park outside. She recently discovered my stash of clean plastic parts in my daughter's room (she is away at college and we keep her room closed while she's gone.) I was at work during the "discovery" and I received a text with the word "hoarder" in it. Don't know why... ...but as long as she can park in the garage the "problem" is not out of control. More rain today... a lot more rain... so I am just trying to get everything clean, organized, adjusted, lubed, etc. so assembly will go quick when I get all the goodies back from the powdercoater. Steering bearings were an unpleasant surprise. I confess to trying my new ultrasonic cleaner in the kitchen while she was away (you can see the kitchen counter under the paper towel). Swore my youngest daughter to secrecy in the name of "scientific experimentation." Here are some front brake caliper parts before and after 10 minutes of ultrasound with nothing but tap water in the tub. Then I cleaned her wedding ring in it... ultrasonic...

Got a little more play-time today. Some highlights: Painted the final drive and reaction rod. Tried cleaning and greasing the steering bearings, but they were too far gone - so I finally had to get a real hammer and punch out the races... bearings on order. And I had previously powdercoated a spare fuel door - so took the opportunity to install that.

I got the standard clutch alignment tool from MG Cycle. They also sell a starter-ring holder. Neither are the official Moto Guzzi tools, but they work well - and I think there was quite a savings compared to the factory tools.

I think the splines for the clutch to transmission hub are the same for the 5 and 6 speed. The clutch is sort of agnostic with regards to what transmission is behind it. The difference, as I understand it (and I have never been into a 5-speed), is only in how the clutch gear attaches to the primary (input) shafts of the transmissions. If the 5 and 6 speed transmissions have different primary shafts, they need different hubs that mate to the same type of splines in the clutches.

That's the one. Theoretically, that, plus a 5-speed RAM kit, gets you a 6-speed RAM kit. I'm not sure how to advise you there. I think the 6 speed was unique to the V11 series. You should check out some online parts diagrams or scroll through MG Cycles' pictures of all clutch parts available - they show a flywheel that fits V11s and some of the newer CARC bikes (Griso/Norge). Try WildGuzzi too - there are lots of guys who know the full Guzzi line over there.

Those are the most obvious wear parts and would be a "basic" clutch replacement (but intermediate plates are cheap and worth tossing in at the same time). However, the following parts also wear: flywheel teeth, Transmission input gear teeth, pressure plate, intermediate plate, and starter ring (there is a friction surface on it). If you have to replace everything it's much more expensive than the RAM unit - and the RAM steel flywheel will "never" wear out (exploding aluminum ones excluded).

I think you could install the 5 speed RAM kit, but you would need to also find a transmission input gear that was removed from a Scura or Tenni. I imagine some of those are available from Scura owners who went to twin-plate. Speculation... and mystery.. and... Only one way to know for sure:

Haha - welcome to the agony and joys of Scura ownership. Totally worth it.

Exercise for sure. I can tell the difference on a long ride - if I've been active I can stay in the saddle longer. Last weekend I was in "Happy Scura Pose" for about 8 hours. Keeping your knees warm is a big help too. I got some Freeze-Out knee warmers for cheap at Cycle Gear. They are comfortable and offer an extra layer of wind protection.

Thanks. I've used the Staburags on the Guzzi driveshaft splines - I think that's the ideal application. If I don't feel like buying MIL-spec sprays, I assume any dry moly spray, like CRC's would do. Do you spray all four surfaces: flywheel, transmission gear, clutch disc inner teeth, and clutch disc outer teeth? (obviously masking the friction plates).

So you think these are even better than the Omrons you've previously recommended? 25 relays at $2.84 is $71 - that's enough for 5 bikes. I'll send a PM.

Can you say more about that? I mean, would you basically spray the whole inside of the flywheel and the transmission input gear? And do you mean anti-seize paste - like the silver (or copper) stuff you put on bolt threads? My BMW specifies a Staburags (NBU 30 PTM) grease for the splines, which is so thick and sticky you have to brush it on. But the splines on the BMW are tiny in comparison to the Guzzi splines. I have some of that. I just put a clutch back together yesterday, but didn't lube it. It's easy-access now... any extra advice appreciated.

Docc - I appreciate your persistence here. Although I am getting a little overwhelmed by all the specifications and part numbers... So... the link you just posted from onlinecomponents... these are the best 5-pin relays we can currently buy?

I know some stuff, but have to speculate a bit, because I have never laid eyes on the 5-speed bits. Short answer, I believe, just as Footgoose said, that the RAM kit for 5-speed will bolt up to your crankshaft - and mate perfectly to the Scura's original transmission input gear. The guys at MG Cycle think so too. I am certain that you can install a dual-plate clutch and a new input gear and it will work. Let me try to sort out the input gear issue: 5 vs 6 speed input gears differ only in how they attach to the main shaft of the transmission. Single plate vs dual plate input gears differ only in how they interface with the clutch parts. Deep ones mate to the gears in two clutch friction plates (with a steel intermediate plate between). Shallow ones mate to teeth of only one clutch plate. Therefore, there are 4 types of input gear to be aware of: 5 speed deep (for dual plate) 5 speed shallow (for single plate) 6 speed deep (for dual plate) 6 speed shallow (for single plate) Flywheels and clutch parts for 5 speed and 6 speed are the same (per MG Cycle and Lucky Phil's earlier posts). The only difference in the "kits" is which transmission input gear is supplied. Therefore, you should be able to install a RAM 5-speed clutch kit in your Scura. But then there is the possibility that the push-buttons on the pressure plate are different - and might require some modification to the push-rod - I think somebody was working on that recently. ...and is it worth it to try fit the 5-speed RAM kit? I don't know. The difference between the clutches is obvious if you are switching between two bikes - but both work well. In the long run, having a dual plate clutch will probably be easier to maintain as they've been standard on Guzzis for decades. I was going to put a dual plate in my Scura if I couldn't get the RAM parts in time.

Docc - I await your decision/advice. It looks like that OMRON unit has a 4-pin and 5-pin version. The Amazon link you posted earlier shows both 4s and 5s and I couldn't figure out how to specify the 5s. From the spec sheet, it appears the 5-pin is part number: G8HE-1C7T-R (the number for the 4-pin has an A instead of a C). When you're satisfied, will you re-post the "final solution" and link(s) to purchase? I just want the doctor to tell me what to do...

Thanks, I've read about that being helpful to get the springs to stay in the flywheel when installing the pressure plate with the engine vertical. But I laid the engine down on an old tire so I could drop everything in from above. The problem was with getting the springs to seat into the spring wells of the pressure plate - you have to get 10 springs to go into 10 wells that you cannot see. I used the aftermarket springs that MG Cycle sells. I think they are little thicker than the OEM springs. Anyway... it just took one beer and one bloody knuckle - so not too bad of a job. I was really puzzled at first about why I couldn't get all the clutch parts into the flywheel.

New fuel lines, filter, and stainless clamps. That stuff adds up... almost $60 for that little task. Also cleaned the throttle bodies and injectors, which gave me another chance to play with the injector cleaner that MartyNZ made. It lights up... Cleaned up the front calipers and got all four pistons to retract just with hand pressure. New pads on the ready... Flywheel and clutch is in (using new bolts and springs). Joe's clutch discs were 7.69mm and 7.66mm and the intermediate plate was 2.88mm. He said it was working fine and he was just going to reinstall as-is. But I installed the clutch and flywheel from the 12,000 mile parts bike - the discs and plate were a combined .43mm thicker. Had a heck of a time getting all the springs to seat correctly in the pressure plate - then figured out a trick. The springs don't stand perfectly straight, so if you let them all lean into the center, it's easy to reach in and push them back into the recesses in the pressure plate. If you don't seat them correctly, you cannot compress the pressure plate enough to install the rest of the clutch (ask me how I know...) Also dug through my parts stash. Anything that was better is now staged for assembly time... which will be after powdercoating is done.

I did the above test on a 2002 (external fuel pump) and 2003 (internal fuel pump). Both showed no continuity. The way I see it - run the best relays in every position. So it's the new Omron now? or the Panasonic?

It must be winter... and batteries sure die quickly in the cold... Looks like fun.

The carbon fiber top panel is easy to remove from tank. There is room under it to mount magnets, but I'm not sure how much weight it could take. I think that CF bit is unique to Scuras - and that all the other external-pump tanks had a rubber pad there. You might be better off to fabricate something that you can attach to the four threaded sleeves on top of the tank - some sort of a plate that you could then attach the tank-ring to. Then when you use the tank bag, you remove the CF bit - and put it back on when you're done.

Well, I posted that same picture on Wild Guzzi in response the question: "What's coolest thing you have found on the road while riding?" I think somebody actually wants to go get that truck.

I probably should not have said that about the noise - that was speculation on my part. But I am assuming the noise is new - and therefore most likely due to something that was changed.

Tough times makes us think about what really matters. Thanks for the reminder. I'm also due for a colonoscopy. And plan to participate in next year's Distinguished Gentlemen's Ride, which raises money for prostate cancer research.

The throwout bearing is really small. It sits between the slave cylinder's piston and the pushrod. It could not make that much noise. I'm assuming you have not ridden the bike yet - and that you noticed the sound on your first start-up after the repair. I'm also going to assume that you did not remove the flywheel. Are you certain that all the springs are in correctly and that everything is properly tightened? If you put your ear to a wood dowel, you can touch the dowel to different parts of the case to try to isolate the noise. Did you replace or re-use the springs? When I did my twin-plate clutch recently (due to slippage), it seemed that the plates still had some life in them, but the springs were much weaker than the new springs. I wonder if weak springs could allow things to rattle around more than they should. At some point you'll have to decide whether to take it out for inspection or to ride it. I hate those decisions... wish I had an easy answer for you. If you do take it out, it might be a good idea to replace the throwout bearing and springs - just for good measure.