Scud

Various goodies for sale. All prices negotiable, it's hard to find comparable prices - so make an offer. If I overpriced something, show me where you found it for less. I will pass on the actual cost of shipping. Moto Guzzi rear rack new in box, no longer available. Paid $119 over a year ago when Harper's had a special lot available. Never used, but the black rack braces have been powdercoated flat black. SOLD Heated grips and bar risers. Both items freshly installed, and I believe never used. Grips are by Oxford. $90 for new. I'd like $60 for these. Bar risers include: clamps (to fork tubes), chrome bars, heavy bar-end weights, extra-long brake and clutch lines. For comparison, MPH cycles sells clamps and brake lines for $399. SOLD Top Case and Rack This is a large Hepco Becker top case in good shape. It has the back rest and the optional metal rack on top. It attaches to a metal plate, which is on the rear rack. I think the rear rack is by Stucci - it's the beefy one that attaches solidly to the subframe and takes more weight than the Moto Guzzi rack. Top Case Sold. Rack only: $75. Tekno Panniers and Racks Structurally sound, although a bit faded. One zipper pull missing. I think these can be brought back to life with some black fabric spray paint. $150 for bags, racks and mounting hardware. FBF Crossover This is in near-new condition, but was used some. This crossover is far lighter than stock, but does not have a place to attach the hanger. I'm running one on my LeMans with the Titanium exhaust. SOLD Titanium Kit Racing Exhaust These are used. Presentable, with some wear as shown in photos (mostly where the straps attach). I do not have the high footpeg brackets or the kit racing ECU. This is for the pipes and hangar straps only. Asking $600.

You forgot the Biggest reason. The other bikes are Not a Moto Guzzi Scura. Best line from this review: "My only reservation is the black wrinkle finish on the crankcase and rear drive, which may take some keeping up to."

Thanks. But I started this "major service" in mid October... I had a few days off and it was raining pretty hard the last two days. I pushed hard to get the engine paint done before the rain, then I had the proverbial rainy-day project. It's been killing me to not have it working. The other bikes are rideable, but they each need something.

That is fabulous and deserves an encore. Thanks for posting, I had never heard him before.

My New Year's resolution is: "Rub my hose less and ride more." The RH oil cooler hose had rubbed through the thin rubber and the paint on the subframe - so wrapped the offending section in a piece of split heater hose. The hose to the shock reservoir had burned through paint on the frame and I didn't like how it was rubbing against the airbox bracket - and I had some clear vinyl tube in my toolbox. This oil hose had rubbed through the paint on the subframe, and it rubs on a sharp edge under the transmission - so more heater hose to protect it. And here's how I'm going to ride more... Still have a lot of fine adjustment and tuning to do... hoping to get it through a few heat/cool cycles and get her out for a proper ride soon. And where did I stash that belly pan?

Then comes the moment when you think "Well, that WAS worth it."

OK, it would make a fine winter project - and here are some lessons learned. Supplies and Techniques: Aircraft stripper is "the bomb" - wear long sleeves, rubber gloves, and a full face-shield (not just goggles) Super Clean helps to dissolve the black-tar goo that some of the paint turns to (the entire engine case turned to a horrid, sticky mess, while some parts released the paint like a rubber glove). Thick-bristled parts cleaner brush helps to dislodge stubborn bits of stripped paint from hard-to-reach places Plastic scrapers can be cut into little strips the same size as the grooves in various parts Q-tips are the same size as the grooves at the bottom of the engine block (you'll need to scoop paint-tar-goo out of those grooves) Specific Parts: Rear drive and stabilizer arm - easy peasy Driveshaft collars - I recommend powdercoating, but they would be easy to spray Transmission - I think you could leave the two main cases and all the gears together - and paint the rear cover and selector cover independently. I split everything because of a leak. Engine - the sump parts are easy. The timing cover is a PITA, because the fins are so tall (the timing cover might be a good candidate for powdercoating, especially since it gets hit by gravel). The block would have been much easier with the cylinders removed - but I didn't want to strip it down that far. I ended up leaving a partial ring of old paint where the cylinders meet the block - especially on top of the engine. Bonus Points: This would be the time to drop off a big batch of goodies at the powdercoater: swingarm, subframes (I did the lower and the front), various bits and brackets. FAIR WARNING https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I51eR2hzdQ

Thanks. And as to why Moto Guzzi put new cases... yeah, that was a shit-ton of work. And underneath the crinkle paint, the case is a much rougher cast than the case on my 2003 (and you can see how much smoother the transmission case is). I bet they celebrated every time a person chose the free accessories instead of the new case. The RAM clutch is in now. I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with the clutch in and transmission in gear, so it seems like it's going to work... and it takes very little effort at the clutch lever. And, you know, I may just swipe the thermometer dipstick from my LeMans. It's a good idea to mark the levels on that now. I blacked out my engine number...

Hey Pete - I was thinking of you today. This is third time installing one of your "Roper Plates." Second time in this bike. I think I'm marginally proficient at it now. Happy New Year to you and all the AU/NZ people who will see it almost a full day before me.

I don't know them, but I've enjoyed Wayne's participation on the WG forum. It's tragic, and an important reminder about how dangerous our favored form of transportation can be. He posted some pictures over there... looks like a life well-lived.

BBCode (replace photobucket's img with this in your post) It seemed fitting to drink a Sierra Nevada "handcrafted" Pale Ale while removing the masking from the freshly painted engine. I promised to take her to the Sierra Nevada Mountains as soon as the snow melts. ...and that's the last of the crinkle paint. If I ever think about repainting another 2002 V11 drivetrain, please conduct an intervention to stop me. BTW, ignore the nasty paint on the sump ring, that ring is a spare that I used as a base while painting.

The magic extender increases the leverage, and decreases the amount of foot travel required to initiate a shift. That's part of why it feels more crisp. It doesn't materially change the angles.

I have unkempt's champagne LeMans now. It's "in waiting" - till I'm caught up with other projects. Whattsa matter? No floor space in the living room for the Sport? Maybe suggest to your buddy that the early K bikes are worth considering. My 1992 K75s is a far better ride than my 1981 R100 was. The K bikes came out in the mid '80s. Ks are very affordable now, while some of the airheads are getting expensive.

Well, sometimes things are so obvious, once somebody with some experience 'splains it properly.

I've struggled with some of that vagueness in the manual myself. The one-page torque spec sheet in the manual gives standard torques for different size bolts. I use those when in doubt. Sometimes I "cheat" and look up torques for similar things in my Clymer BMW K-bike manual.

For a shift linkage, which has to apply forces in both directions, I think 90 degrees at rest is the target. When the linkage moves forward, for a downshift, the front angle (at transmission input) decreases and the rear angle (at the arm on the foot lever) decreases. It's opposite for an upshift. But the 90 degrees is an ideal - and as already mentioned, there are other factors to consider, such as not hitting cases, frame, and porkchops. The first time I tried adjusting the length of one of these, I was really surprised to find that it could not be lengthened or shortened while installed. LH and RH threads would have made adjustment easier/faster.

But if you disconnect one end, you can adjust the total length and reassemble. From what I understand, the shift linkage works best when it at 90 degrees to the levers. If you take the lever off the transmission input shaft and move it a tooth or two, you will change the angles. When I got my LeMans, the PO had lower pegs and had made moved the trans lever a few teeth (and made lots of linkage adjustments. It shifted well - but I've since put it all back to stock.

Two Tims on this thread... and it looks pretty good next to a Scura. But my garage is pretty crowded right now. So many great bikes for less than $5,000 out there...

You need a stronger bubble.

Following up on my earlier puzzle about the timing chain... I got it back in today, along with the upgraded timing chain tensioner... and there is a bit of a trick to it. First, the new tensioner has to be compressed by something skinny enough to allow the chain to slide by. Standard C-clamps did not work. I took all the rubber tips off a spring-clamp and it was smooth and easy. Then, all three gears and the chain have to go on at the same time. And this can be done with only two hands: Get the gears and chain all properly organized so the marks will line up. It would help if you were able keep them together after removal - but did I do that? No. When you get the cam and crank gears to start over their respective pin and slot, then you have to line up the key and slot on the oil pump. This can be done by turning the oil pump shaft with a screwdriver. If your oil pump gear has the slot close to the top the little key will not fall out. Snug it up... 150nM (110lb/ft) on the cam nut. No torque specs provided for the nuts on the lower two gears. And WOW - the chain is WAY tighter than with the stock tensioner. Special tools: a super-deep 32mm socket, and if the motor is out, you need a starter gear locking tool. BTW, the bolts that go through the stock tensioner are longer than the other bolts around the main bearing housing - so I needed one new, shorter bolt. Edit: read on to next page for even easier way to install the new tensioner.

Maybe park the V11 in the middle. Keeps things in chronological order, so you can appreciate the transitions...

WOW. She looks fabulous - factory-fresh even.

Not a V11, but a very nice custom CARC by a builder who (like Docc) paid tribute to Carcano. http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2016/09/22/moto-guzzi-mgr-1200-radical-guzzi.html# The above story says that the factory supported this effort. It's even on the Moto Guzzi corporate page. http://www.motoguzzi.com/en_EN/news/MGR-1200-wins-Essenza-public-design-competition/ Is it possible that we will see something along these lines to compete with R9T BMWs and Triumph Thruxtons? (If so, it probably won't have CARC rear-end.)

I found the fender on eBay. Details here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&p=215632 Jester and I had some PM conversation as he was also interested. The fender is for the Ohlins forks, and it would not be a direct fit to the Marzocchis - the zooks take 3 screws per side and they are in different places than the 2 per side of this one. Meanwhile, Santa's elf was busy stripping the engine case.

Ya think? Somebody mentioned the ratcheting crimpers a while back; I think it was Lucky Phil. Here they are, along with some related stuff that makes me a Goots-e-lectrician: The ratcheting crimpers black/yellow handle were my recent purchase, along with a box of assorted crimp-on terminals and a box assorted size/color heat-shrink. You didn't ask, but also I pulled out my favorite wire stripper. This is an "automatic" or "self-adjusting" wire stripper. It clamps the wire, cuts the insulation, then pulls the insulation off in a clever series of movements from only only squeeze of the (red) handles. And for comparison, the old tools, which have moved to the back of the drawer... possibly never to be used again.