Scud

To satisfy my curiosity, I installed the battery (with it's freshly powdercoated tray ) Resistance from battery negative terminal to: Stock regulator ground wire: 0. This is expected, because the wire goes directly to the battery. Bare spot on spine frame: 0. New grounding point on frame (fuel-pump through-bolt): 0. This is without even having the engine installed. It uses the connection between the spine frame and the transmission. For comparison, a bare bolt on the upper triple clamp had resistance: 15 ohms, IIRC. There will be a lot more connection points when the engine is in. So this confirms my hypothesis that the frame and aluminum cases are just one big lump from an electrical perspective. However, I noticed an easy way to add a ground the rest of the way to the battery. I had previously run a battery charging cable behind the headlight for easy access and to power accessories. So I cut the negative wire, added two crimp-on terminals and stuck them on the fuel-pump through-bolt. This provides an extra measure of safety in case the primary ground works loose. I used DC-4 again (not vaseline) so I missed the opportunity to threaten my neighbor when he visited. This also gave me an excuse to play with my new ratcheting crimpers. OMG, they are so much better than the stamped steel ones. A real pleasure to use. Moto Guzzi is making another electrician... they've been doing that for almost 100 years now.

It's a 7.3 Turbo-Diesel with automatic transmission and 4.11 gears. It's not going to win any drag races, but it pulls strong. I found one with about 135,000 miles in Idaho that had a Gear Vendors unit installed. That's a gear-splitter/double-overdrive. It drops about 500 RPM at 80 MPH, which is a good fuel saver - it gets maybe 18 MPH on open highway (would be better if I went slower). I would have preferred a manual transmission, but it's not just me and "some people" refuse to drive a manual transmission. I think the Cummins motors are probably the best, but the duramax are good too. The old 7.3 will run on the high-sulphur diesel that is still sold in Mexico -and the 1997 is the last year of smog-exempt in California. Those were factors for me - not sure if they are relevant for you. It's slow, loud, and stinky - and I like it. I put a Mexican blanket in the back seat for "ambience." I'm surprised at how many comments the old-body-style Ford inspires, while the newer-style trucks get ignored.

How funny - we got pictures of our trucks in the same place, and same hills in the background. To avoid the Ford/Chevy/Dodge debate, perhaps we could agree that everyone should have a 4WD truck? The Porsche Looks like a fun toy - I have good memories of a trip to Mexico in one of those (belonged to a friend). I gave up on car-toys a while back, but I get to use the same amount of space for motorcycles, so I am much happier.

If my daughter is accepted to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo I'll be visiting frequently. She hopes to start there next August.

More play time Rebuilt forks, new fluid in damper, fresh Pirelli Angel ST, groovy new front fender, lots of little stuff like cleaning and lubricating the wire harness, playing with ground wires, new speedo cable and angle drive (the previous cable had snapped and left a piece inside the drive gear). Still haven't painted the engine... but getting there. Hopefully I can get it going again before the New Year.

Maybe... but does that Alfa BAT have a cool red frame and green alternator cover?

Tire thread... I spotted some tires in the Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) in New York City last Saturday. They were sitting under this E-Type Jaguar. IMO, one of the most beautiful production cars ever. I think I see my V11's tail back there.... Also on display: Several original Vincent Van Gogh's, including Starry Night, Andy Warhol's works including the original Campbell's Soups and pastel Marilyn Monroe Almost a roomful of original Pablo Picasso's, including many pre-cubesent works, which showed that he could paint and draw realistically when he chose to Loads of other interesting stuff... and nice way to spend a snowy day in the "Big Apple."

LOL scuds spears... just send evey thing ya have, no wait that cb 350 send that... Too funny - old photo though. The CB350 was a clean 10,000 mile example and is now in the possession of a collector. I tried making that my commuter for a while, but the poor girl just couldn't get out of her own way sometimes (and I felt unsafe in fast-moving traffic). When she left, she made room for my K75s, which is an excellent commuter.

I got rid of the front crossover pipe and had the holes on the headers welded. I didn't notice any difference in performance. Later, I replaced them with a set from a 2002 V11 (no crossover). If you can't find or make the gaskets, and you want my welded set, they're yours for the cost of shipping.

Thanks Roy. I'll proceed as intended. As for Vaseline - remind away. However, MartyNZ convinced me of the value of the Dow Corning DC-4 compound. I think it has all the benefits of Vaseline, but withstands higher temperatures. Docc. By split, I was referring to using two wires, not the way the current flows. BTW, I think your "redundant" ground has probably become the primary from a current-flow perspective. Shorter wire = less resistance. Thicker wire = less resistance. Malapropism alert: "short and thick does the trick." And just so I am clear that I understand the purpose of this supplemental ground... as I understand it, the extra ground improves the charging and offers some protection against excess heat in the wire loom due to the fact that the original ground was too "long and thin." ...but there is still a problem if the battery ground works loose.

As it sits now, the bike will have two regulator grounds in parallel. 1) The original, smaller copper ( I estimate at 16 gauge) wire that goes from the regulator back to however it connects to ground through the loom. and 2) the new, thicker (12 gauge) and shorter copper wire that will attach to the same point at the regulator, but goes directly to the frame. By my simplistic way of thinking about electricity, the majority of current will follow the path of least resistance. I assume the new, thicker wire to the frame will carry most of the current now - thus preventing my loom from getting overheated. Aren't the engine, transmission, and frame basically one big lump from an electricity perspective? I mean, they have several metal-to-metal connection points. Is it better to split that second ground as Docc has done? To go from regulator to aluminum engine case, then from case to frame?

The frame on my 2003 has the unused holes. It also has the unused studs where the fuel filter is mounted on the earlier models. Those studs would make an easy ground point. In fact, I was wondering if it would be better to ground the battery to the steel frame at that point, rather than to the aluminum transmission case.

I can confirm that the hose clamps on my BMW K75s are much nicer than ones "you get at the zone." The bands have threads pressed into them - not cut. You can find them if you look - ABA makes them, and probably the AN brand that Chuck mentioned does too.

This topic comes up quite a bit in other threads and I just ran a new ground wire - so here it is. I sanded the paint off the frame behind the nut that secures the fuel-pump bolt (which passes through frame on 2002 and earlier, external pump, models). From there, I used a 12-gauge wire with crimp connectors and heat shrink to follow the original ground wire. This more than doubles the ground connection - and it's shorter and not mixed in with the rest of the harness. The original ground wire had gotten hot a few times (note blackening at the connector). This bike only has about 12,000 miles on it, but that type of heat is a disaster (fire or electrical failure) waiting to happen. Obviously, you don't need to remove the engine and subframe to do this (I've got other "stuff" going on). But seeing it in this condition made me wonder if Moto Guzzi relied on the grounding between the case of the regulator and the front sub-frame, which is steel. If the regulator is well-connected to the subframe, it would then be connected to the spine frame at four points (one of which is the round bare metal area in my photo). But these areas get corroded. I sanded them and will apply DC-4 electrical grease on assembly - so there is a third ground connection.

Good idea. There was a guy looking for advice recently about a touring rig - but didn't want a Norge. This might be what he wants. ...and Chamberlin - go ride those things. Isn't it peak riding season in Southern Arizona right now?

To remove, just cut the raised section with a dremel cut-off wheel - then it will release. That looks like a low-pressure, oil breather line. So any clamp should do.

I second that. Check that battery is fully charged, replace all 5 relays with OMRON, recite Guzzi incantation, and start. I may have parts if needed (PM sent).

MG Cycle has clutch plates for the RAM units. They have a solid disk and a three-prong plate. My new one came with a 3-prong. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4732 http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=3117

Dual plate refers to the standard clutch on most V11s - and most Guzzis in general. The direct replacement RAM for 6-speed transmission is no longer available. However, the RAM for 5-speed is supposedly compatible.

Here's the MRA on my LeMans. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&p=214541 It's better body protection than stock, but more wind noise. I am 6' 0". I find it easier to tuck under, but again, a bit noisier when sitting upright. You should also consider the laminar lip - a windshield addition, not a replacement.

1 front disc? So you can reach the spokes to clean them for hours... As for the two links I posted. I prefer the stock V11 over the customized one, so I agree that it's excellent work, but I don't find the end result more appealing. On the other hand, I really like the cafe Centauro. It's tasteful and classic while keeping the modern components. I thought the gold wheels (same gold as the Brembo components) was brilliant. Have a beer and take another look at the Centauro (which IMO was not that attractive to start with). Do we have some other woodworkers on the forum? Somebody want to start a new thread? It's been a long time since I built any furniture, but I've done some stuff around the house within the last few years - entertainment center, wood staircase, etc. I'm no professional, but I'd be willing to take a few pics.

OEM Part Name: Front Mudguard for Ohlins forks Moto Guzzi Part Number: 01434385 Replacement Part Differences from OEM: a bit shorter in back (possibly more road spray), more protection of fork sliders up front. Can be installed/removed with front wheel on bike (removal of OEM fender requires wheel removal) Other Compatible Vehicles: 1998-2003 Aprilia RSV Mille, 2002-2005 Aprilia Tuono Other Comments: excellent quality carbon fiber Website link for source: found on eBay from a seller in Hong Kong

Oh - I thought that was your plan and that you were in need of clutch and possibly flywheel replacement. But if it's not in need of work, don't do it. Riding is way better than wrenching. I hope my Scura will go for 100,000 after all the "refreshing" I'm doing now. Cosmetic stuff is great fun when it can be done without time pressure.

Looking good. I like how you painted the background of the emblem; I think that's better than solid red. And wow, what a huge difference in color between your two photos. If you put this much thought and effort into every bit of your 100,000 mile refresh, we're gonna have a lot to talk about...