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Walterg

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Walterg last won the day on February 27 2017

Walterg had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Capelle aan den IJssel - Netherlands
  • My bike(s)
    2003 V11 Le Mans, Honda TransAlp XL600V, Honda FireBlade, Kawasaki GPZ1100UT, Yamaha FZR600R, Suzuki DR500S

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  1. Thanks everyone for your replies. I ordered a 1.00 pitch bolt and it was the correct one. After a two days ride in the German Eifel area (many, many twisties) with the rised clip-ons and the temporary brake line extension I decided to keep the rised clip-ons and order a proper set of bestoke brake lines to go with them. I prefer the original lower clip-ons so I will be reinstalling those again.
  2. Since I installed risers I need to extend or replace the front brakelines. One of the ideas was to attach two parallel lines on one double length bolt to the cylinder instead of the H- or T- setup.
  3. Hi everyone, I'm meaning to replace the banjo bolt that's screwed in my front brake cylinder but before I take it out I need to know the threadsize. Does anyone know this? I know it's an M10 diameter bolt but I have to choose between the 1.0 and 1.25 thread. Thanks, Walter
  4. Thanks. Mine is indeed vented and I know it's open because it let's water in.
  5. 15 years later..... What do you guys mean with "Burping" the bevel drive?
  6. Well. I'm leaving things as they are now. No more weird sounds and the bike rides wonderfull. I'll fitt the new speedometer cable that arrived today and while I am at it find out why the tachometer was jumping up and down all the time. So time for some electronics.
  7. Yes indeed. With mine it sounds very clunky though.
  8. Wow!! Thanks for explaining Pete. Love the bit of history too! It's completely clear now. By the looks of the diagonal and rounded faces on parts #15 and #16 sudden rotational changes direct the energy into the spring washers which will compress and store the energy. When the rotational force lets off again the stored energy is released back to the drive shaft. I have to admit I love this stuff!
  9. By the looks of it part 15 is made out of rubber and sits between parts 13 and 17 to take the impact of sudden radial loads. The discs (parts 18) form a Belleville spring and catch the axial movements caused by the rear wheel going up and down and thus pushing the drive shaft into the gearbox. Right?
  10. Can somebody explain what this does? I think it is supposed to 'dampen' shocks coming from the rear wheel.
  11. The rattle disappeared after I screwed the gearbox back in the bike again the first time. Since I messed up he clutch the first time I had to take the gearbox off again. After putting everything back together again the second time the rattle is still gone but the clunking sound you hear when you push the bike back and forth and change direction from forwards to backwards (again with the bike in gear and my hand pulling the clutch lever in) seems louder. The bike rides lovely though. During the ride I don't perceive any weird sounds or unwanted movement in the drivetrain. Changing gears is fine like it has always been. Indeed I now understand that this and this should be in the same picture.
  12. Thanks for the picture Docc. So far I haven't been able to find anything on how the wormwheel bushing in the gearbox that drives the spindle sits on the shaft. I unscrewed the speedo cable and found that it was just broken. Again no indication as to what is causing those sounds. I rode 120km today and I rode the bike pretty hard but no indication that anything is wrong with the gearbox.
  13. I fixed the slipping clutch. The cause was a big blob of grease that I somehow managed to get on the clutch plates and did not notice during assembly. I also fitted the rubber O-seal on the drive shaft. After I checked the gearbox a while back I have been riding the bike a few times now (about 300 km) and I did not come across any issues indicating there is a problem with the drive train / gearbox. This morning though my speedometer stopped working. The cable 'looks' fine but I will check it when I get home tonight. The idea that the issue is with the shaft that extends from the final drive shaft into the gearbox (Gearbox outgoing) is growing. Although at this moment I can't find any picture or drawing which shows which part drives the speedometer transmission. I have a one week holiday planned with the bike starting the 29th of August. I hope it will be clear and fixed by then.
  14. Yeah. I'll fix that this week when I have a look at the clutch.
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