profWacko Posted January 24, 2007 Posted January 24, 2007 The newer bikes have a new gizmo in the shifter linkage called a "special adjusting eccentric". Has anyone figured out what this really adjusts? Meesathinkin that mine is not adjusted so well becaue I can get a neutral in between just about any two gears you want to name, especially when downshifting. I know that my clutch is dragging a bit and that is likely causing some of the problems, but I don't think that's what's causing me to get so many neutrals. My 2002 Le Mans shifted A LOT better, as I recall. Any thoughts? -Jack
Greg Field Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 Figure out why the clutch is dragging, and fix that first. A dragging clutch will most definitely affect shifting.
Guest gooseorduck Posted January 27, 2007 Posted January 27, 2007 Jack, even with your shifting issue, that doesn't slow you down. Last ride, I could not keep up with you in both straightways and curves. Mine, I have a little difficulty shifting up. Just won't go in. Hope yours is a simple fix.
belfastguzzi Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 The newer bikes have a new gizmo in the shifter linkage called a "special adjusting eccentric". Has anyone figured out what this really adjusts? Meesathinkin that mine is not adjusted so well becaue I can get a neutral in between just about any two gears you want to name, especially when downshifting. I know that my clutch is dragging a bit and that is likely causing some of the problems, but I don't think that's what's causing me to get so many neutrals. My 2002 Le Mans shifted A LOT better, as I recall. Any thoughts? -Jack I guess you're talking about the eccentric pin that limits the movement of the pawl arm. It replaced the plain old roll pin that was in the 2002, to act as a stop. There are photos of it in other threads, as at least one pin has been found in the bottom of the box rather than in the casing where it should be. Have you seen the "special adjusting eccentric" mentioned in a manual or something – or are you actually looking at it? – you're not talking about the big eccentric on the transmission plate that is adjusted externally, are you? It's the same on all models, as far as I know. Which isn't very far.
Ryland3210 Posted February 3, 2007 Posted February 3, 2007 Upshifting has been a little more difficult than I expected. I just noticed that the tie rod to the transmission shift crank interferes with one of the two hoses that are tie wrapped such that they are right behind the tie rod end. When upshifting, it would contact the hose. This explains why I learned to yank up pretty hard with my toe to upshift. I had to overcome the resistance of the rubber hose and compress it. One solution might be to adjust the tie rod, but that would lower the shift lever position. Instead, I clipped off the OEM tie wrap, repositioned the two hoses and tie wrapped them out of the way.
belfastguzzi Posted February 3, 2007 Posted February 3, 2007 Upshifting has been a little more difficult than I expected. ... the tie rod to the transmission shift crank interferes ... One solution might be to adjust the tie rod, but that would lower the shift lever position. ... First port of call with bad shifting, is to check / adjust the external linkages. That stuff can all get sloppy. There's also the gearshift pedal retaining nut that works its way off the bolt, to look out for – tighten / replace / loctite. There's also something else that causes havoc, possibly supernatural. It gets attributed (including in my own case) to the gearbox getting too hot and upshifts become impossible.
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