OILS?????????????????

[Baldini]

Rock Oil trm in motor, Redline Shockproof Heavy in both trans.

 

KB

[txrider]

Amsoil in engine, tranny and bevel drive with moly added to bevel drive.

[Steve G.]

As per Mr. Roper's advice, nothing but the best fermented chimp spit!

Actually, because of a recent "deal of the century", I've purchased enough oil literally to last a lifetime for all my bikes, buying all of a former dealer's ELF 15w-60.

Ciao, Steve

[docc]

I do recall Pete saying " no friction modifiers as they glaze the bore."

 

Actually, I shouldn't use the quotes as he said this with much more color and flare in his inimmitable style. Something about your 'donk' that I was afraid to repeat out of context.

 

My understanding is that nothing over 10w-40 has friction modifiers.

[k7qz]

As mentioned by others above, I also use Motul Gear 300 in the transmission. At last change I tried Motul's Motylgear 75w-90 fully synth (100% ester). Hmmm, the V11 did seem to shift a little smoother with this (as advertised by Motul).

 

Engine? Plain 'ol BMW brand dino oil. Mainly because I buy it by the case for my BMW bikes, thus it's always on hand-

 

I'm also a fan of Redline Shockproof but I find the Heavy (Pepto Bismol lookin' stuff), well, too heavy. For example, it makes my GS Adventure feel like I'm driving with the parking brake on, particularly if the temp is below 40 F outside. Lightweight Shockproof (blueberry milkshake lookin' stuff) makes my beemer's tranny very happy however.

 

Maybe I'll try the lightweight shockproof in the LeMans tranny next time...

[Greg Field]

Motorex 10w-60 in the motor. Shockproof heavy everywhere else.

[Ryland3210]

I haven't done any research on whether the modern multi's and synthetics break down to the lower viscosity range, as they used in the bad old days at high temperatures. I used to stick to straight 50 with my Norton. It would get pretty hot, air cooled, no oil cooler either.

 

I'm thinking of using diesel grade Shell Rotella straight 40. I'm not worried about cold starting. Anyone out there with some objective information?

 

I'd really appreciate it.

[docc]

I believe Carl posted a link a while back which makes for interesting reading relative to oils and the air cooled motor:

 

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

[Guest Gary Cheek]

I always used the appropriate weight (for the season) of Texaco Havoline aircraft oil, augmented with a few ounces of STP for the zinc and phosphate missing from the aircraft oil. It always worked very well indeed. My 1975 Trident looked great at 85,000 miles from top to bottom. I took it aprt to install an 867cc Routt big bore kit and had anticipated re-doing the bottom end. The crank and bearings were in great shape, the Megacycle cam that went in at the 3000 mile mark using the original lifters was excellent as well.

 

The main missing ingredients from modern automotive oils are zinc and phosphates. Our non- catalytic systems are not poisoned by these elements and actually need them. The main area of wear is our flat tappets. The new breed of flat tappets are no where near the quality as days gone by. There are just a few sources left since the auto companies have shifted to the use of roller lifters (to allow the use of low phosohate/zinc oils!) The folks who made the best tappets have quit.

Some of the highly regarded, specialty, imported oils have very low levels of these ingredients as well. There are quite a few articles with comparisons of the additive levels on the web and they are worth searching. Shell Rotella and Mobil1 VEE TWIN (NOT the automotive Mobil1 20W-50!) Have pretty high levels of zinc and phosphate at this time. STP additive is actually rich in zinc and phosphate as well, at least it used to be?

 

The oil companies are continually changing oil formulations so it takes a bit of keeping up. No doubt there are some of the small specialty suppliers who maintain a consistent product. Dealers like Greg get to see the performance of different oils first hand. Put some weight on their suggestions.

[Guest ratchethack]

I believe Carl posted a link a while back which makes for interesting reading relative to oils and the air cooled motor:

 

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Good stuff. Thankfully, all the credible recent updates on oil applications continue to be consistent with my own choices. With the EPA and the rest of the Eco-Nazi snakes in the grass multiplying in direct proportion to the ever-escalating amount of extortion money they can get away with every year , it's important to stay up to date on this. This is the first oil analysis I've read that actually lists *MOTOMAN* as the first of only two recommended reading sites for engine break-in!

[rossoandy]

As per Mr. Roper's advice, nothing but the best fermented chimp spit!

Actually, because of a recent "deal of the century", I've purchased enough oil literally to last a lifetime for all my bikes, buying all of a former dealer's ELF 15w-60.

Ciao, Steve

aah I can beat that!! I've a 15year old 205ltre drum of valvoline 20/50 to use!! I not more than 1/4 way though it!!! Got it for price of few drinks down the pub about 5year ago..

Means I change the oil as often as i can be bothered....worried I wear out the drain plug!

Do you think I should give drum a shake before I use it....