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Posted

I agree for the above 100% , i believe that crcking can happen to bad quality stuff , that are as well wrongly fitted as well.

Never heard of an Öhlins,or a WP, doing that

With mine the alloy cracked again down the full length of the thread when I removed it from the shaft,it was thread locked and the alloy let go first ! :huh2:

I can only assume that the alloy is to wrong for this application and the corrosive expansion of the alloy and steel around the shock eye is enough to cause failure.A dry climate and grease to waterproof rather than lube the eye would reduce the risk, wet, salty conditions (a British winter :homer: ) would make it almost certain to fail.

The best we can do is keep the rear wheel spray off the shock and grease the area between the eye and the alloy ,it may be possible to remove the eye from the shock clean any corrosion and grease it but the risk of the casting cracking may be too great, anyone want to try ?

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Posted

May sound over cautious but I simply decided that I was not going to risk Helen's life by leaving the Sachs on her V11- so bought an Ohlins intead which I know will stay in one piece.

 

Guy :helmet:

  • 1 month later...
Posted

With mine the alloy cracked again down the full length of the thread when I removed it from the shaft,it was thread locked and the alloy let go first ! :huh2:

I can only assume that the alloy is to wrong for this application and the corrosive expansion of the alloy and steel around the shock eye is enough to cause failure.A dry climate and grease to waterproof rather than lube the eye would reduce the risk, wet, salty conditions (a British winter :homer: ) would make it almost certain to fail.

The best we can do is keep the rear wheel spray off the shock and grease the area between the eye and the alloy ,it may be possible to remove the eye from the shock clean any corrosion and grease it but the risk of the casting cracking may be too great, anyone want to try ?

#

 

A friend at work (The Bouncing Czech as we call him :D ) told me that he could get a shock eye made in Czech easily, so I let him take the broken part with him when he went home for Christmas.

He has just got back from another visit and collected the finished part while he was there, the guy that did it has used aviation spec alloy and increased the thickness of the eye part slightly, not bad don't you think. :)

oldandnew.JPG

It could be worth getting one made 10mm longer to give Ohlins like ride height :huh2: , although the total travel would still be 10mm shorter than an Ohlins of course.

Posted

#

 

A friend at work (The Bouncing Czech as we call him :D ) told me that he could get a shock eye made in Czech easily, so I let him take the broken part with him when he went home for Christmas.

He has just got back from another visit and collected the finished part while he was there, the guy that did it has used aviation spec alloy and increased the thickness of the eye part slightly, not bad don't you think. :)

oldandnew.JPG

It could be worth getting one made 10mm longer to give Ohlins like ride height :huh2: , although the total travel would still be 10mm shorter than an Ohlins of course.

Can you fit a bearing in that eye?

 

Regarding the lube, how do you get the lube into the bearing?

I had lubed the eyes where the bolts goes through, but that is not where the motion is.

I am sure some of my zealous lubing got to bearing point, but not as much as would be ideal.

My Penske came with Teflon coated bearing, so lubing is not necessary, and the bearing should be easilly replaceable.

Perhaps the Sachs eyes should be dipped in hot wax, maybe with Moly mixed in?

Or sprayed with penetrating chain lube or chain wax?

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