Assist please--won't start **fixed-neutral switch**

[stormsedge]

Last night went to fire up the V11...symptoms follow:

 

All normal, turned over and started fine...but engine sounded weak and didn't settle out--coughed and quit

 

Battery light on, oil light on, no neutral light, no fuel pump

 

Headlight and tails work, horn works

 

Fuses check okay, except #8-electrical solenoid...but I have manual on tank (is that the solenoid they mean?)...fuse is good--no power to either side on test light

 

switched relays around twice

 

no change

 

hand activated the kick stand switch

 

no change

 

frustated owner yells distinctly insulting works at it

 

no change

 

Appreciate assist. k

[callison]

Last night went to fire up the V11...symptoms follow:

 

All normal, started, but sounded weak--coughed and quit

 

Battery light on, oil light on, no neutral light, no fuel pump

 

Fuses check okay, except 8-electrical solenoid...but I have manual on tank (is that the solenoid they mean?)...fuse is good--no power to either side on test light

 

switched relays around twice

 

no change

 

hand activated the kick stand switch

 

no change

 

frustated owner yells distinctly insulting works at it

 

no change

 

Appreciate assist. k

 

Charge the battery. Check battery voltage. Try again.

[stormsedge]

Last night went to fire up the V11...symptoms follow:

 

All normal, started, but sounded weak--coughed and quit

 

Battery light on, oil light on, no neutral light, no fuel pump

 

Fuses check okay, except 8-electrical solenoid...but I have manual on tank (is that the solenoid they mean?)...fuse is good--no power to either side on test light

 

switched relays around twice

 

no change

 

hand activated the kick stand switch

 

no change

 

frustated owner yells distinctly insulting works at it

 

Ooops, let me add headlight is on, horn works.

 

no change

 

Appreciate assist. k

 

 

Charge the battery. Check battery voltage. Try again.

 

I'll do that, however, the lights work fine and the engine turned over fine on the first start up. Now no fuel pump or neutral light. k

[Foxy]

I'll do that, however, the lights work fine and the engine turned over fine on the first start up. Now no fuel pump or neutral light. k

 

No knowledge of these particular motors yet but it does sound like a knackered battery. Most big twins need quite a bit of heft to turn the engine over properly, and if fuel injected will also need enough juice to pressurise the system. Getting it started the once could well have drained most of what life was left in it. Even if the lights illuminate there is no guarantee there is enough power to crank over the motor, especially from cold. Check the voltage across the battery with the ignition off and see what it's producing. A healthy battery should put out atleast 12.7v.

[Richard]

Try having a look at the neutral switch on the gearbox. See if there is any difference in the continuity when in neutral and not, then check for continuity with the side-stand switch when the stand is up and down. If they all check out, remove the left hand controls and jiggle the stop/run switch about a bit and try starting it again. If all this checks out, then it's time to do continuity checks on the wiring on the cut out circuit with the side-stand switch. If all this checks out, the only other thing I can think of would be a problem with the ECU. I'm sure it wouldn't be this and I'm sure there are those much more knowledgeable than me who can add further assistance.

 

Richard

 

Btw, if there is enough juice for the lights then there would usually be enough for the fuel pump to prime the system and it wouldn't explain the lack of neutral light.

[twhitaker]

Have you tried it with pulling the clutch lever in? Control thinks the machine is in gear.

[orangeokie]

Have you tried it with pulling the clutch lever in? Control thinks the machine is in gear.

 

 

Try cycling the shift lever up and down the gears a few times, then reset to the neutral position. I had a similar problem, even after installing a new battery and fuses. Evidently there is a possibility for a "false" neutral, that will allow you to crank but won't start, and won't give you a light.

[stormsedge]

Okay, Okie, I'll try that as well. But there is no change whether the clutch is pulled in or not, and the fuel pump isn't pumping. I'll probably end up tracing wires tomorrow...at least it will not be too cold. k

[raz]

Okay, Okie, I'll try that as well. But there is no change whether the clutch is pulled in or not, and the fuel pump isn't pumping. I'll probably end up tracing wires tomorrow...at least it will not be too cold. k

I do not think the battery is your problem yet I wouldn't start checking wires before checking battery voltage mainly because it's a very easy thing to do.

 

The neutral light is likely a clear indication of something, I'm just not sure what. I second holding that area (neutral switch and sidestand switch) suspect when tracing wiring.

 

I don't have a sidestand switch (nor anything that would prevent me from cranking myself around town), would it prevent the fuel pump from running the initial 2 secs?

[dlaing]

It does seem likely to be a bad neutral switch, possibly compounded by a weak battery, and maybe even a bad relay.

Try grounding out the wire going to the neutral switch and see if the neutral light comes on (with key in on position).

[stormsedge]

All, thanks for advice. I pulled the tank and began by testing the 5 plug connector to the kill switch...using the wiring diagram in the cryptic "repair" manual and deduction, I ended up (er, down) at the nuetral switch...I pulled the wire and stuck my continuity light (which was grounded) to the spade clip and everything worked.

 

I am embarrassed to say what I paid for that gold plated, platinum tipped switch ($47USD) at my local vendor (Atlantic Motorsports), but as my wife said--"do you want to ride today, or shop for a better price"...((sigh))

 

So I'm back on the road and with a bit more knowledge on what I might do to limp home in an emergency. Thanks for the assist. k

[Wick]

Stormsedge,

I think I read some time ago that you should leave the bike parked in gear to take the load off the neutral switch spring. Apparently it is weak and will deform inoperative. Do you normally leave your bike in gear, or, out of gear when stored??

 

Wick

[stormsedge]

Wick, I leave it in neutral. k

[st. augustine]

don't mean to hijack, but am having some trouble with my nuetral light also (scura). sometimes when pulling up to a stop light and I down shift to nuetral, the nuetral light doesn't come on (no big deal...been happening since I bought it). But now, if I put down the the kickstand it kills the motor (don't remember that happening, could be going senile though). Also, sometimes the light doesn't work even from a cold start. Other times the light works just fine.

 

so to get to the question???

 

where is the switch on the gear shifter you guys are talking about? I know about the switch on the kickstand, which I clean periodically. but I don't see any electrics on the shift lever.

 

appreciate the help. also, stormedge, might meet you at Kirts sometime so we can head over to a coffee shop.

[felix42o]

don't mean to hijack, but am having some trouble with my nuetral light also (scura). sometimes when pulling up to a stop light and I down shift to nuetral, the nuetral light doesn't come on (no big deal...been happening since I bought it). But now, if I put down the the kickstand it kills the motor (don't remember that happening, could be going senile though). Also, sometimes the light doesn't work even from a cold start. Other times the light works just fine.

 

so to get to the question???

 

where is the switch on the gear shifter you guys are talking about? I know about the switch on the kickstand, which I clean periodically. but I don't see any electrics on the shift lever.

 

appreciate the help. also, stormedge, might meet you at Kirts sometime so we can head over to a coffee shop.

 

 

 

The nuetral switch is kind of above and behind the shift lever, and (I think) you have to pull the starter cover off to get to it. On mine, it's got a violet wire running to it. Real easy to get at.