Re-seal the 6 speed

[Ryland3210]

I am just about to start the same project. My 2000 Sport was oozing tranny oil last year as well. Now that I've had to do the clutch this seems a good WYAI project.

 

It's good news that no special tools are needed.

 

Are there any gaskets in there that I should have on hand?

 

YamaBond is the stuff! It can even seal Norton engine cases!

 

Norton cases?! I'm impressed! Nothing worked 100% on mine, though I think oil weeped through porous die castings, since I worked so hard on the joints. What's Yamabond made of? Is it a silicon caulk or something else?

[BrianG]

Norton cases?! I'm impressed! Nothing worked 100% on mine, though I think oil weeped through porous die castings, since I worked so hard on the joints. What's Yamabond made of? Is it a silicon caulk or something else?

 

It's definitely NOT silicon RTV sealant! It's much like a Permatex product that is called a non-hardening gasket sealant. Yamabond 4, Threebond 1104, Honda 4, Kawasaki semi sealer and Suzuki sealant are all the same. If you can find it Threebond makes a sealant 1 step better called 1211. In aviation they use a 2-part sealant called pro-seal, but it's wicked to get off if you have to do something inside again.

[mike wilson]

Norton cases?! I'm impressed! Nothing worked 100% on mine, though I think oil weeped through porous die castings, since I worked so hard on the joints. What's Yamabond made of? Is it a silicon caulk or something else?

 

 

The rotaries might have had die cast bits. Nothing previous. AFAIK.

[FuelCooler]

Good thinking

It is worth the extra work to make sure it is done right!

By the way, you do know about Redline ShockProof, right?

And while you have it all apart be sure to check the shift spring for binding.

 

Update 02-28-07

 

Good news,

My trans recall work was on record with MGNA. Rod bolt recall did not apply to my VIN (Thank you Greg Field). So here is where I am at:

 

1. Trans is out and cleaned.

2. No cracks found.

3. No loose bolts on the rear most cover.

3. Rear cover off, no loose bolts found on the 'second' rear cover (the one that carries the gears).

4. Leak is coming from the seam between the 'second' cover and the trans case.

 

Now I assume that next I put it in neutral, open the side cover, pull out the shift forks and unbolt and remove the second cover (bringing out all three shafts with it)?

[BrianG]

Update 02-28-07

Now I assume that next I put it in neutral, open the side cover, pull out the shift forks and unbolt and remove the second cover (bringing out all three shafts with it)?

 

Good luck with that.... I'm at the same place and am stuck.......

 

Let me know how you get the ring-nut off of the input shaft..........

[FuelCooler]

Good luck with that.... I'm at the same place and am stuck.......

 

Let me know how you get the ring-nut off of the input shaft..........

 

It looks like the shafts stay with the cover and not with the case. But you are ahead of me. I very well could be mistaken and be about to be trying to remove the input shaft as well.

I hope someone who's done it tells us our next move, if not I will let you know my progress tomorrow night.

[BrianG]

It looks like the shafts stay with the cover and not with the case. But you are ahead of me. I very well could be mistaken and be about to be trying to remove the input shaft as well.

I hope someone who's done it tells us our next move, if not I will let you know my progress tomorrow night.

 

It looks like all the shafts will stay with the middle "plate".

 

You will have to remove the "internal body of the clutch" (it looks like a "gear" but it engages the clutch friction plate hubs) from the input shaft. It is secured with a ring-nut with tabbed washer under it.

You also have to remove the shift forks.

And remove the odometer transmission, and keep the striker washer positioned inside the gearbox.

Then it looks like the "case" will lift off of the plate-and-gears assembly.

 

I just can't figure out how to get the front ring-nut off!! I can build a "holder" for the "internal body of the clutch" out of an old friction plate hub.

[pete roper]

It looks like all the shafts will stay with the middle "plate".

 

You will have to remove the "internal body of the clutch" (it looks like a "gear" but it engages the clutch friction plates) from the input shaft. It is secured with a ring-nut with tabbed washer under it.

You also have to remove the shift forks.

Then it looks like the "case" will lift off of the plate-and-gears assembly.

 

I just can't figure out how to get the front ring-nut off!!

 

Rolf makes a wonderful set of special tools that incude one specifically for the peg nut on the input shaft. If you plan to do this a lot then buy the tools, they're worth it.

 

if you don't plan on doing it a lot? Well, I'm about to go to the UK so I could lend you mine for a couple of weeks just to get you off the hook BUT!!!!! I'm probably going to be doing a five speed service school in the UK for the Guzzi Club and will need the tool for that. If you can gaurantee that you can get it back to me for that then I'll stick it in a bag tomorrow for you.

 

Pete

 

PS. My best guess is that if you and Jim and a few other Cannucks club together you could BUY a set of Rolf's tools for less than it would cost you for postage! His tools are great AND if you buy the set you get the other sockets for the other V11 peg nuts!

[BrianG]

Rolf makes a wonderful set of special tools that incude one specifically for the peg nut on the input shaft. If you plan to do this a lot then buy the tools, they're worth it.

 

if you don't plan on doing it a lot? Well, I'm about to go to the UK so I could lend you mine for a couple of weeks just to get you off the hook BUT!!!!! I'm probably going to be doing a five speed service school in the UK for the Guzzi Club and will need the tool for that. If you can gaurantee that you can get it back to me for that then I'll stick it in a bag tomorrow for you.

 

Pete

 

PS. My best guess is that if you and Jim and a few other Cannucks club together you could BUY a set of Rolf's tools for less than it would cost you for postage! His tools are great AND if you buy the set you get the other sockets for the other V11 peg nuts!

 

Great! I'm a tool nut anyway...

 

Who is Rolf and how do I get ahold of him?

[FuelCooler]

Great! I'm a tool nut anyway...

 

Who is Rolf and how do I get ahold of him?

 

I did a search for him on the internet but came up empty. So I called Moto International and ordered the 'internal body of the clutch' holder and the KM-05 style Guzzi socket (and folding washer) to get this trans apart. The tools were over $100 but, they will be right here if I run into trouble (Thanks for the offer though, Pete ). I would have made the tools before but I now live 500 miles from the machine shop I used to work for.

And yes, BrianG you were definately right: I was stuck at the same road block! My tools will take well over a week to get here, so I will be eagerly waiting reports of your progress!

 

Steve

[pete roper]

Nip over to Guzzi tech or Guzzitech dk.

 

Rolf is a *known identity* in the Guzzi world so he's obviously seriously mad His tools, especially the peg nut sockets, are the dog's nuts. well worth the, honestly, paltry sums he asks for them. Yes, you canm probably get away with some of the cheap fleabay shite if you only use them once in a while but I've ben using Rolf's tools for several years in my workshop and they still work, first time, every time. Bl;oody bargain in my book!

 

I'll see if I can find his contact details!

 

Pete

[Bruce Reader]

G'day everyone.

 

For Info on Rolf's tools (so to speak). Try http://www.guzzitech.dk/english/index.htm go to special tools for info. This is the same site of the Guzzi watch project.

 

Cheers

 

Bruce

 

sorry go to the site then technical, then special tools.

[BrianG]

Got it apart!

 

The issue was getting that ring-nut off of the input shaft. I borrowed the right tool from a friend and it spun off without big effort. The underlying "internal body of the clutch" pulled off by hand.... no puller needed. Once the shifter forks were removed the case lifted off cleanly and easily.

 

I used 4, 8mm X 60mm bolts in the 4 threaded holes of the output side of the transmission plate that carries the shafts, as a "work-stand" to keep things upright and level.

 

Now I just have to glue it back together.......

[BrianG]

Anyone know of a source for stainless steel fasteners for the re-assembly?

 

There were too many fasteners assembled without anti-seize coating that many of the allen-sockets were damaged.

[FuelCooler]

Got it apart!

 

The issue was getting that ring-nut off of the input shaft. I borrowed the right tool from a friend and it spun off without big effort. The underlying "internal body of the clutch" pulled off by hand.... no puller needed. Once the shifter forks were removed the case lifted off cleanly and easily.

 

I used 4, 8mm X 60mm bolts in the 4 threaded holes of the output side of the transmission plate that carries the shafts, as a "work-stand" to keep things upright and level.

 

Now I just have to glue it back together.......

 

Excellent BrianG.

I was waiting until one of us got the thing apart, so now I am going to edit my original post to reflect that a special tool is needed to take the second rear cover off. (Just incase they don't read through the thread before starting this project!)

 

I will mock up a stand like yours as well, but I still have 10 days until my tools get here.

Go YamaBond!

Where did you get your output shaft seal? Bearing house or MG?