Black Paint

[KiloSjon]

Working on the rear end of my bike, I see some rust on the frame. To touch it up I will use Hammerite, since it can go directly on metal and rust (off course I'll remove as much as possible). For the Battery holder (where due to a leaking battery in the past, all paint is almost completely gone) I will use this as spray paint.

 

I was wondering, since the black that is used is not gloss, but "silk", what paint do you guys use to touch this up or do a repaint job? Do you then also use primer, and what paint is hard enough to be on the frame? Or is this all powder coated?

[mike wilson]

Where possible, I use the following procedures and products.

 

For steel:

(Preferably) Blast back to fresh metal. In any case, remove all loose rust and clean to fresh, bright metal as much as possible. In the case of not blasting, apply antirust treatment. This is usually a phosphoric acid based product, with inhibitor, that converts leftover rust to phosphate. Apply either etch primer or zinc-rich epoxy primer. Zinc-rich primers need to be over 95% zinc to be any use. Then undercoat and top coat as required, both epoxy. Either two or single pack paint. Epoxy laquer if required.

 

It's all a bit of a faff but I find that doing it right, once, beats doing it over and over again. Stuff that I have painted using the above procedures has been used for over a decade continuously on the road with little rusting.

 

I have yet to find a suitable solution for painted alloy, such as the zinc-rich castings used in modern engines. They rot through in no time once the factory coatings are damaged.

 

BTW, Hammerite is crap. 8-)))

[KiloSjon]

Where possible, I use the following procedures and products.

 

For steel:

(Preferably) Blast back to fresh metal. In any case, remove all loose rust and clean to fresh, bright metal as much as possible. In the case of not blasting, apply antirust treatment. This is usually a phosphoric acid based product, with inhibitor, that converts leftover rust to phosphate. Apply either etch primer or zinc-rich epoxy primer. Zinc-rich primers need to be over 95% zinc to be any use. Then undercoat and top coat as required, both epoxy. Either two or single pack paint. Epoxy laquer if required.

 

It's all a bit of a faff but I find that doing it right, once, beats doing it over and over again. Stuff that I have painted using the above procedures has been used for over a decade continuously on the road with little rusting.

 

I have yet to find a suitable solution for painted alloy, such as the zinc-rich castings used in modern engines. They rot through in no time once the factory coatings are damaged.

 

BTW, Hammerite is crap. 8-)))

 

You are sounding like a pro on this...

 

The frame paint is not "just black" but less glossy. Do you reach that result with the method described above?

 

Hammerite worked for me in the past since it strong and easy to apply...

[mike wilson]

_Definitely_ not pro. I mainly use a brush 8-) The big advantage with epoxy is that it sets, rather than drying. Any runs or other unsightly deeds? Sand them away and polish the shine right back in. Tougher than some of the metal it covers.

 

You can get various surface effects. For a long time, one of the arguments against epoxy was that the colours did not have the sparkly shine that cellulose and other types of paint have.

 

Hammerite is, indeed, easy to apply. But it is ordinary, household, oil-based type paint. I think they make it up with an unusual solvent so that you have to stick to all their products. Any paint will cover rust and slow down rusting. Unless you remove and/or neutralise it, rust will return quickly - and it's been eating away at good metal underneath that Hammershite (whoops!) all the time.

[Guest Nigelstephens]

Hi Mike

I too have used Hammerite as its easy and seems to last 2 years plus.

 

I'm interested in the epoxy. Where do you get this paint either locally (NE England just around the corner from you) or by mail order?

 

I agree the alloy is a problem. Recently taking to spray painting Ali paint every 6 months. Very labour intesive and the finish is soft and easily scratched. A very temporary solution.

[big J]

Rustoleum.Good stuff.

[badmotogoozer]

I've had excellent results using PJ1 Fast Black (a VHT product I think) painting old brit bike frames.

 

It is an epoxy paint in a spray bomb can. About as good as you'll get without a spray system.

 

I think it may only come in gloss. Strong and long lasting.

 

Rj

[mike wilson]

Hi Mike

I too have used Hammerite as its easy and seems to last 2 years plus.

 

I'm interested in the epoxy. Where do you get this paint either locally (NE England just around the corner from you) or by mail order?

 

I agree the alloy is a problem. Recently taking to spray painting Ali paint every 6 months. Very labour intesive and the finish is soft and easily scratched. A very temporary solution.

 

Last time I, er, acquired some, it was from a friend who worked for International Paints. Any yacht chandler (Captain McNulty's in South Shields, for instance) will supply epoxy paint. Two pack requires a hardener to be added to make it set, the one pack uses atmospheric moisture in many cases instead of separate hardener. In both cases, you only make up or take out of the tin what you are going to use immediately. Otherwise all the rest goes off, too.

 

Thinners can be expensive. Or yu can just consider brushes disposable. I used to have a superb set of foam brushes (no hairs to come loose) until I used my first batch of epoxy.....

 

Epoxy will probably work with alloy, too. I just haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.

 

I've had excellent results using PJ1 Fast Black (a VHT product I think) painting old brit bike frames.

 

It is an epoxy paint in a spray bomb can. About as good as you'll get without a spray system.

 

I think it may only come in gloss. Strong and long lasting.

 

Rj

 

I've seen that on sale here. Must check it out.

 

Rustoleum.Good stuff.

 

Another oil based paint. Dulux is probably cheaper.

[big J]

When I worked manufacturing tunneling machines and coal cutters we used rustoleum to paint the machinery.It lasted very well.

 

Try leaving a machine a mile underground for 5 years and see how well Dulux protects.