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Posted

While waiting (in 50deg temps!!) for my forks I'm moving on to

by passing the headlight switch gear with the "relay" set up.

I've got the nice color drawing (though my wires are Y/Brn/Grn-gry/BL)

my real concern is ...Do I just cut the existing wires "above" the connector and

put solder joints and spade connectors on everywhere ...or below the connector

or is there a way to utilize the connectors?

Just looking for consensus and possible hidden disasters.. :homer:

 

Speaking of hidden disasters ...the philips screws holding my alt. cover on

had to be locktited in...I snapped the last head off with the impact driver.

After a day of vise gripping, drinking, swearing and playing my guitar to her

I finally resorted to an 1100deg heat gun...in lieu of the propane torch.

WORKED LIKE A CHARM! :)

Posted

If I recall when I did my scura I just ran new leads from the bat (terminals are a tight fit now) and used exsisting spade connectors. Someone here had already done the homework.

Posted

I'll happily second that. The headlight relay setup they sell is really well made and requires no cutting of anything. I've done a lot of wiring myself building complete harnesses over the years but I still bought one of these for all my daily driver bikes because it's just so nicely made and reasonably priced.

 

johnk

Posted

I highly recommend this modification to anyone who rides at night on a pre-Breva Guzzi Six Speed, and to anyone with the early six speeds where the lighting eletricity flows through the weak, normally on, side of the starter relay, regardless of whether they ride at night.

If you install a higher watt bulb(not that I recommend that), the difference will be even more dramatic.

 

lobeambeforeea3.jpg

lobeamafteryl5.jpg

YMMV

Posted

That's a very noticeable difference :thumbsup:

 

I'm guessing the correct one to get is the H4 Single Headlight Relay Kit - shell mount? Has anyone tried the H4 Weatherproof Headlight Relay Kit version with the posi-lock connectors and remote relays? I'm wondering if there is enough room in headlight shell for all the stuff on the first one?

 

Randy

 

:homer:

 

I should have read the webpage a little better. Sounds like they now give you the option of using posi-loc connectors on any version so only the relays would have to fit inside the shell with the first option. That sounds easier. Does this sound right?

 

Randy

Guest Gary Cheek
Posted

You may leave the original socket in place and plug the relay harness wiring into the socket if you like the option of reverting quickly to the original setup. The more secure method is to clip the socket and wire directly with butt splices or soldered connections.

A third option would be using Posilocks and carrying a spare socket that could be quickly wired back into service. The back up methods are really just there for the the paranoids who like the option of falling back on the factory wiring. After 35 years with relays on nearly every one of my bikes I have never had a relay failure so it is of little real concern for the most part.

The relays are really a simple job to wire up and once one has the experience they are better equipped to service the system. It is one advantage over buying a factory made system

realyoacknu9.jpg

relaypackkr4.jpg

2725531520092482042ljxvqf5.jpg

(headlights without relays!)

Posted

Every thing I see @ eastern beaver or searching this forum shows 3 pin connectors..

otherwise I'd be ordering one from EB...

They must have a set up for the 4 pin..what I have..

I'll send an e-mail and give a phone call...Spring is almost HERE!!

Thanks to all......

Posted

Ah...I think I see the error of my thinking...

I'm thinking "outside the box" as it were.

I'm trying to do this outside the housing...right? Er..I mean "wrong"?

Posted

While waiting (in 50deg temps!!) for my forks I'm moving on to

by passing the headlight switch gear with the "relay" set up.

I've got the nice color drawing (though my wires are Y/Brn/Grn-gry/BL)

my real concern is ...Do I just cut the existing wires "above" the connector and

put solder joints and spade connectors on everywhere ...or below the connector

or is there a way to utilize the connectors?

Just looking for consensus and possible hidden disasters.. :homer:

 

Speaking of hidden disasters ...the philips screws holding my alt. cover on

had to be locktited in...I snapped the last head off with the impact driver.

After a day of vise gripping, drinking, swearing and playing my guitar to her

I finally resorted to an 1100deg heat gun...in lieu of the propane torch.

WORKED LIKE A CHARM! :)

 

Is there a start to finish, or a how to on this topic. :bier:

Posted

Ah...I think I see the error of my thinking...

I'm thinking "outside the box" as it were.

I'm trying to do this outside the housing...right? Er..I mean "wrong"?

Yes, the error of your thinking is thinking outside the box.

Inside the box is a three prong female :wub: H4 connector, the fourth wire that you see on the outside goes to the 4W dipped light.

The beaver kit gives you a male H4 connector that attaches to the existing female connector, and a female H4 connector at the other end that connects to the H4 Bulb.

You then simply run a ground wire and a wire to battery.

Cheaper than the headlight enhancement that brunette had done. :grin:

Although some, like the Norge, come naturally blessed and need no enhancement to satisfy even the most demanding.

Posted

I've been putting off this mod for a while...didn't realize kits like this existed...awesome!

 

Are you guys using the standard or heavy duty kit? Anyone tried a 55/100 with sucess (no melting of plastic)?

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