callison Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 FWIW, I'll be implementing the "Field expedient oil filter retention device" on my other Guzzis... (How's that for a double entendre' ???) and I was running 15w/50 Mobil 1 gold cap... Slippery stuff. When I switched to BMW's synthetic transmission lube, the drain plug on the rear transmission backed out and departed within 70 miles. I replaced that and then the fill plug likewise took a hike. Now I use teflon tape and safety wire them in place. Synthetic oils lubricity creeps into threads just fine and allows things to loosen up. See! I've given you an out. You didn't make a mistake, the oil did! Still, the damage was done and I feel for you. I hose-clamp the filter on my bikes - sometimes. Now I'll start making sure that I do it all of the time. Except the Norge. If that filter comes loose, I'll have a remarkably slippery rear wheel right before I crash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 What's the UFI part number, and can someone list a couple non UFI alternatives? I am updating the FAQ. Thanks Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 does anyone know what this thread is abought..F.I.I.K It is about taking responsibility for Anthropogenic farking up but it had digressed to AGW Anthropogenic Geek mis-Wordings Bytheway, way to go Al with the FAQ. I wish we could get John (Ryland) to do the same analysis on the SuperTech. Ratchet and my numbers might not be fairly comparable. However if Ryland does a direct comparison, the result would be more credible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 So,we've finally got definitive figures detailing properties,profiles and materials specs,interference fits,etc,etc. Can't we just say- Tighten the filter to contact by hand. Then HORSE the fecker up tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admin Jaap Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 that's what I did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mattress Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Yeah, and inspite of all the speculation and theories we've shared, how about collecting evidence somewhere. I notice in the original photo we could see some kind of dot matrix manufacturing stamp. Maybe someone could collect actual data, because somehow I don't think this topic is dead for good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 So,we've finally got definitive figures detailing properties,profiles and materials specs,interference fits,etc,etc. Can't we just say- Tighten the filter to contact by hand. Then HORSE the fecker up tight. Excellent idea... now exactly what torque value is one "HORSE" so I can update the FAQ? al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 As per the Roper method, "til just before you fart" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 John, more semantic stuff. The Guzzi manuals refer to the casting that the oil filter threads onto as the oil pressure relief valve assembly. That's wot I was referring to. It's not actually "the block". But I think I understand the point you're making. Dammit, I wonder if I've got a photo of it somewhere?? Ah So! I thought you meant the bypass pressure relief valve in the filter. When considering using the Purolator, I checked the mating surface on what I was calling the block, and the manual calls the pressure relief valve assembly. Yes, it was flat with a satisfactory surface finish, and wide enough so that there was full contact with the Purolator gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 . . .Yes, it was flat with a satisfactory surface finish, and wide enough so that there was full contact with the Purolator gasket. Got it, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 What's the UFI part number, and can someone list a couple non UFI alternatives? I am updating the FAQ. Thanks Al Here's what I have, Al: UFI 2328700 Purolator direct replacement: ML16822 has 12-15 psi bypass pressure relief setting Purolator L10168 has 28-30 psi bypass pressure relief setting Fram direct replacement: PH6022 It is about taking responsibility for Anthropogenic farking up but it had digressed to AGW Anthropogenic Geek mis-Wordings Bytheway, way to go Al with the FAQ. I wish we could get John (Ryland) to do the same analysis on the SuperTech. Ratchet and my numbers might not be fairly comparable. However if Ryland does a direct comparison, the result would be more credible. I'm curious about the SuperTech filter. Based on some different comments I've read, I really need to see one. If I can locate one in the local Walmarts to get a clear idea how it's designed, I'll buy one and report on what I find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Remarkable , the cool people on this forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 What's the UFI part number, and can someone list a couple non UFI alternatives? I am updating the FAQ. Thanks Al Here's another alternative: Purolator PL10241 12-15 psi bypass relief valve pressure setting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Until Ryland or someone comes up with anything more conclusive, the conclusion I have for the ST3614: Do not HORSE the fecker up tight or you may strip the threads or need to grrrrrind the secker off the teet. I don't know for sure what the torque specs should be, but I suspect something close to the following may do the trick....Opinions of the more experienced appreciated. Torque it with a torque wrench till ya git atleast 15 foot-pounds with at least 0.75 turns, but do not exceed 20 foot-pounds nor 0.99 turns. The ideal might be 17.5 foot-pounds and 8.75 turns.EDIT Oooops .875 turns If you put a hose clamp on you can probably go a bit on the light side, but if you do not use a hose clamp, a bit on the tight side may necessary. From here http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html I got the following info: [3] Guzzi V11Sport These Oil Filters have 3/4" x 16tpi threads, 8 psi by-pass valve, EDIT later in this thread Ryland suggest 8psi is wrong. So you might not want to use their listed or recommended filters. anti-drain back valve. That web site recommended the filters below in blue. They list the ones in black. I might suggest one verify what they list and recommend <_>I recommend the ones in red Be sure to remove any sticker on the filter before you install it. *UFI 2328700 * SuperTech ST3614 * K&N KN-163 * Purolator PL10241 / PL25230 * Mobil1 M1-102 * Bosch 3330 * Baldwin B1413 * Hastings LF576 * NAPA 1348 * Purolator ML16822 * WIX 51348 * AMSOil SMF 133/134/135 but I have Amsoil EAOM132 on my list * Fram PH6022, PH6065A but I have Fram PH3614 on my list, but I don't recommend And here is an interesting article http://www.mgnoc.com/article_oil_filters_revisited.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Many of those are actually made by Champion. My personal preference is the Mobil1 filter. It has given excellent results as the oil analysis confirms. They even stay on! Others may work as well. Using torque specs is next to futile. The resiliency of the gasket varies wildly from temperature, humidity, age and batch to batch. The thread pitch is a constant. By using a "turns-past-contact" (3/4 turn for the Mobil1 filter) method you will get repeatable settings. The whole idea is to control the compression. The square section "O"- Ring does not require or desire extreme compression from a axial loading to form a satisfactory seal. The internal oil presssure does that. BTW, 8.75 turns :!: Meebbee 0.875 ? Or round off to 3/4 turn or 270 degrees? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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