Accessory Fuse Box

[swooshdave]

On 3/18/2007 at 10:17 AM, docc said:

This is good medicine, removing the terminal stack. I did this by using junction blocks zip-tied to the frame. The positive side uses the mount point for the flasher and one zip-tie. On the early Sport the flasher has to be relocated over near the relay block. This requires relieving the seat pan with a Dremel and reseealing with black RTV silicone.

 

The photo shows the juncton blocks as well as fuses for an accessory port and separate horn circuit. The headlamp circuit has a breaker in place (thanks again,Gary!)

 

After having the melting 30 amp regulator fuse, I added the outside fuse holder for that circuit and put that terminal feed directly back on the battery.

[ EDIT/ March 27, 2019: the outside fuse holders all melted or burned up. Even the Maxi-fuse holder. In November, 2016, I worked in this aircraft grade circuit breaker instead of the "fuses" and fuse holders that repeatedly failed on me. ]:

 

 

A better view of the junction blocks. Periodically checking tightness as the connections settled in was necessary:

 

@docc Any chance you have the photos?

[docc]

Hey, thanks for asking. I restored some images and links

 

 Had to do some edits on this thread. Learned some things since 2007! . . .

[Kiwi_Roy]

I don't have a picture but on one of my bikes I bolted a piece of that 1/4" white plastic breadboard material with 3 6mm bolts.

A ground, + 12 Volts straight from the battery and another + 12V switched through a relay.

Those breadboards are just a couple of dollars at Ikea and the material is really easy to work with.