OK, so I tried to adjust my valves...

[earemike]

OK I spent a couple of hours doing my valves (yeah I know it shouldn't take that long).

 

It took a while to find TDC, since I was just rolling the bike on the garage floor and watching for rocking valves. Then I'd check for an s/d/t

 

first question: whats the T mark on the flywheel for?

 

second question: why did I get the impression the valves rocked at other times? ie I thought on anything with reasonable performance the intake actually opened just before TDC on the exhaust stroke, but this didn't appear to be the case.

 

Thanks for the link to lex's page by the way.

 

curiously there were a few different occasions where I could get both rods to spin freely but not be at TDC at the top of the compression stroke.

 

third question: has anyone else noticed this/is it normal?

 

So I finally got to checking my valve clearances and had:

LH in 0.1mm LH ex tight 0.18mm (ie not 0.18)

RH in tight 0.13mm ex tight 0.1mm

 

I was worried about the RH ex being .1mm and adjusted it to .18mm so both cylinders are within .01mm

I left the in as they're within 0.02mm at a guess.

 

I chose the .13/.18 based on what I read here as there seems to be a lot of views on valve clearances, so I preserved the 0.05mm difference and adjusted as few as possible

 

fourth question: do you ever get clearances tightening over time? I was of the impression that they'd always get larger. Obviously if my dealer set tight clearances it could have been that 3 had been out and that exhaust was as originally set...

 

fifth question: is there a concensus on how long the valves go before usually needing adjustment? ie do people find 1 or two out usually or more? if so are in/ex most common to need adjustment?

 

While doing the exhaust clearances there seemed to be a high point on the rocker but I hadn't read about this.

 

sixth question: Is it normal for the exhaust rockers to have high points where they touch the valve? In my mind this definitely effects how you set your clearances.

 

 

after that I had to regap the right plug (it was .8mm not .7) but the plugs looked like new. We used to check colours with leaded fuel but now I'm told that doesn't work as well.

 

seventh question: is plug colour still a good indicator of how the bike is running?

 

after all that I took the bike round the block and it ran fine. I'll be doing one or two tasks a weeked for a while so I don't rush (or get shitty! ) that way I can enjoy the old tractor

 

 

Thanks for reading and in advance for any tips/advice/answers.

If I'm out of line don't be too harsh, point it out and I'll listen

 

Thanks

[richard100t]

One tip that will make checking your valves easier is to remove the alternator cover first. Put the bike in nuetral & use a ratchet on the alernator nut to turn the flywheel. Its alot easier to get to tdc that way than pushing the bike or turning the rear wheel.

[Alex-Corsa]

This won't answer all you questions but here is a hint on finig TDC.

Unscrew the front cover of the bike , yes , that bell like front (in between the exhausts=alternator cover.)where the alternator is,then screw CLOCKWISE that main screw .

At the side of your gearbox there is a cup, you have to take take this off and you and see now while turning that screw that "gear plate" rolling .With a flashlight you will be able to see the marks(line mak with letter on top) "D" and "S" inside this gear plate, and they should come alligned with the outside point mark which is on the gear box.

D refers to Destra=Right cylinder head. And S to sinistra=Left cylinder head valves to be adjusted.

I have marked these 2 points in that gear plate with red paint so it is easy to find.

It needs to make a couple of complete "rolls" to the whole thing so that the TDC is OK when S od D is alligned to the mark for both cylinder head respectivelly.

Hope that helped. Anyone who came up with some pics will help to what I have described.

 

 

To your questions.

 

Q2, Yes I get this impression too (judging on the method I just described) dunno what it is.I roll oonce more and the allignment is correct.

 

Q3Yes I have came up a couple of times where the Ex. alves where tighter than the intake ones.

 

Q4 Well clearences don't get always bigger, dunno why is that.

 

Q5 I adjust the valves when I hear something doesn't sound right, or my AFR instrument starts showing me some unusuall indications

Generrally I will do a check up about every 5K km (if nothing of the above is happening)

 

Q6 Dunno , I have never noticed this.

 

Q7 Yes it is but then again it should better be checked up at the RPM you want to know of how it is working(i.e. stop the bike pull aside and check plug, so better use an AFR instrument instead of doing this). If it is done after long idle it will only show you about how idle

is working.

Well , in more extreme situations i.e. overall too rich or lean , approximate plug colour will show up anyway.

relative Spark Plug chart

If you go tunning for best results then get an real time AFR measure instrument.

 

P.S. I am sure Gary and Pete will be able to answer your questions in depth, but that's all a basic look from my point of view.

[DeBenGuzzi]

What they said is correct and there is a nice tutorial out there with pics that I Think Lex put together. I think the consensus is valves about every 10,000 but some do it more often some less often but at least check the gap on them and then some ppl change their oil every 2k so it really depends on how much you like working on your bike and how good you are at it.

Like they said remove the altenator cover and spin the engine with a socket while looking at the guide hole on the side with a flashlight. I found it took me 2 hours the first time but I also retorqed the heads, about a hour and a half for the left side and about 30 min for the right and I'm sure next time the whole job will take no more than 45 min and less if I don't retorq the heads. I just didn't know what I was doing. The bike runs smoother now. I think I went with .1 on both sides if I can remember right I did it last spring. I hope some of this helps. Did you use the tutorial thats online?

[coz1100]

valve walk through

 

Here you go. just to save you the search time.

 

ciao

Z

[raz]

You may already know this but anyway: it's imperative you follow the first sentence in Step one: "Make sure the bike is completely cooled off; overnight is recommended". Not only is it very uncomfortable setting a 60ºC engine, it also ends up being completely wrong. I've got the t-shirt

By the way I think I've read the D and S marks are not strictly TDC but the exact point where you should set the valves (which is very near TDC).

[richard100t]

This thread got me motivated to do my Spring tune up on the Goose. I checked the valves, set them at .102 & .152. Then I replaced the spark plugs & resynced the tb's. The bike runs better every Spring lol. I think this bike should last my lifetime with regular maintenance.

P.S. It still has the original battery & I never need to trickle charge it, however the battery light stays on until its really warmed up.

[DeBenGuzzi]

This thread got me motivated to do my Spring tune up on the Goose. I checked the valves, set them at .102 & .152. Then I replaced the spark plugs & resynced the tb's. The bike runs better every Spring lol. I think this bike should last my lifetime with regular maintenance.

P.S. It still has the original battery & I never need to trickle charge it, however the battery light stays on until its really warmed up.

how do you sync the Tb's exactly? I should do that.

[richard100t]

how do you sync the Tb's exactly? I should do that.

I use a TwinMax tb sync device. I'm sure if you google it you'll find one to buy on the net for just under $100. I bought mine last year & I love it.

[Mr. Bean]

I second the vote on the TwinMax

 

I know it costs more than water or mercury sticks but I find it WAY easier to use.

 

Randy

[earemike]

Thanks guys, yup I used lex's guide which was pretty awesome.

 

I weighed up the idea of removing the exhaust to get the alternator cover and rolling the bike along my garage floor and checking. I figured the time I saved removing the exhaust (since there's a bead of silastic in all the joints) would be time spent guessing TDC.

 

I'll have to search the forum to see if that tab at the bottom of the alternator cover is necessary, if not it's removal might make the whole job quicker.

 

Thanks for the feedback, Alex's answers to some of my questions has certainly eased my mind.

 

Good stuff, thanks guys.

[mike wilson]

fourth question: do you ever get clearances tightening over time? I was of the impression that they'd always get larger. Obviously if my dealer set tight clearances it could have been that 3 had been out and that exhaust was as originally set...

 

 

seventh question: is plug colour still a good indicator of how the bike is running?

 

 

A couple of generic answers:

 

Assuming the adjustment stays tight, if the clearances get larger it means that someting in the valve train is wearing or deposits are forming on the valve seats. If clearances get smaller, then the valve seat is wearing or the valve is stretching. Take your pick as to which you think is worse....

 

Plug colour is still a good way to determine the state of tune.

[jrt]

I'll echo Mike's post. I tried to post this last night, but I'm travelling and the intertubes are not so great here. If the valve clearance shrinks, something is wearing. Not necessarily something to worry too much about, but do keep an eye on it and make a note for the next adjustment.

 

 

And another for twinmax.