MG Ti can finish

[Tom M]

Does anyone here know how to clean up scuffs or marks on the MG Ti cans? Scotchbrite? Steel wool?

 

Here's why I'm asking... I just installed a new exhaust crossover and unlike the previous owner I fully seated the header pipes into the crossover (grease helps). This effectively moved my exhaust cans an inch or so towards the front of the bike so the exhaust can hanger clamps are farther up the cans than they used to be. This is good since they will support the cans better, but the clamps left marks on the cans at their old locations. I'd like to clean up the marks with something so they blend in a bit with the existing finish on the cans. Any suggestions?

[Guest ratchethack]

Ah, the Achilles Heel of Ti cans. . . I wouldn't get anywhere near 'em with Scotchbrite or steel wool! Any good plating shop also does polishing and would have Pro's knowledgeable on how (or if) it might be done in a jiffy on a wheel (or series of wheels) with the right grade polishing compound(s) for best results.

 

They might have to re-finish the whole can for a uniform result, but I'm sure it'd be relatively low cost.

[Tom M]

Ah, the Achilles Heel of Ti cans. . . I wouldn't get anywhere near 'em with Scotchbrite or steel wool! Any good plating shop also does polishing and would have Pro's knowledgeable on how (or if) it might be done in a jiffy on a wheel (or series of wheels) with the right grade polishing compound(s) for best results.

 

They might have to re-finish the whole can for a uniform result, but I'm sure it'd be relatively low cost.

 

They aren't polished, have a fine "brushed" finish. I definitely don't want to refinish the whole can, just want to make the marks less noticeable. If no one here has any experience with this I'll either

a ) experiment on the back side or

b ) ignore it!

[Guest ratchethack]

They aren't polished, have a fine "brushed" finish. I definitely don't want to refinish the whole can, just want to make the marks less noticeable. If no one here has any experience with this I'll either

a ) experiment on the back side or

b ) ignore it!

Tom, I've been up the same creek many times with brushed finishes. By my experience, it'd be almost impossible to get a 100% undetectible result without putting a new finish on the whole can. Any shop that does plating and polishing can do brushed finishes as well. With aluminum, it's even worse -- nay, impossible without a complete refinish -- 'cause with any abrasive approach, you go thru the anodizing, which makes a horrendous change in the finish, and makes re-anodizing a requirement for a flawless result.

 

IMHO if you really want to try Scotchbrite and/or steel wool, I'd suggest go f'er an inconspicuous spot (as you've noted) f'er a quick lesson on how tough it is NOT to make it 10X WORSE than it was to start with (don't ask how I got me own education on this! )

 

Good luck!

[Dan M]

They aren't polished, have a fine "brushed" finish. I definitely don't want to refinish the whole can, just want to make the marks less noticeable. If no one here has any experience with this I'll either

a ) experiment on the back side or

b ) ignore it!

 

 

Tom,

I think you should experiment on the back side. Scotch-brite 07447 very fine is not going make a big change without quite a bit of rubbing. If you need to get more aggressive start with "fine" or "medium" and then move to very fine. It's possible you'll have to go over the whole can to make it completely even but I don't think it would be too much work. I just did some old goldwing valve covers for a friend. Used the above mentioned Scotch-brite to remove the clear coat and it left a very nice brushed finish. I ended up polishing them but an even brushed finish was easy to obtain, at least on aluminum.

[Tom M]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know how I make out.

[Alex-Corsa]

Ah, the Achilles Heel of Ti cans. . . I wouldn't get anywhere near 'em with Scotchbrite or steel wool! Any good plating shop also does polishing and would have Pro's knowledgeable on how (or if) it might be done in a jiffy on a wheel (or series of wheels) with the right grade polishing compound(s) for best results.

 

AFAIK any real polishing techniques for these cans insn't going to be really successfull on bringing up the polish result, but merely. Further more for small scratches a scotch brite pad might do the job , but for big or deeper scratches there isn't any cure to restore to "new" like condition.

[waspp]

I think a scotchbrite pad would be okay, using it in the direction of the brush marks on the can, but a good idea to try it in a hidden spot first. Mine also have some marks on the top of the cans where the clamps came together, so I reinstalled them I put a small piece of rubber under that top portion of the clamp. Hopefully this will prevent any further rub marks.

[WitchCityBallabio]

How about trying a very light abrasive metal polish liquid? I've used some in the past on brushed aluminum and if done carefully, will usually take out minor scratches. Remember if you do this to only polish in the direction of the brush of the finish, not little circles.

 

IMO I would avoid using a scotchbrite type pad.

[Tom M]

I tried a couple grades of scotchbrite on the back of the can and it looked good to me so I did the same on the front. It looks good in my basement, not perfect but definitely better than before. We'll see how it looks when I get it out in the sunlight. I'll eventually post a few pics.

 

Thanks.

[VR6Dave]

I had a Suzuki SV with a Yosh Ti can, it came with a Scotchbrite pad to remove scuffs. The instructions stated that the buffing shold be in the direction of the original finish and that sandpaper or chemicals shold be avoided. Hope this helps.

 

 

Dave

[txrider]

I screwed up and scratched a new Leo Vince pipe on a Tuono last week. A red rubber eraser rubbed along the scratch removed the darkened line and continued rubbing began to wear down the sharp edges. I finished with light polishing using a Bounty paper towel and SemiChrome metal polish. Now, after a couple of heat cycles the two relatively deep scratches are just about invisible.

[Tom M]

I screwed up and scratched a new Leo Vince pipe on a Tuono last week. A red rubber eraser rubbed along the scratch removed the darkened line and continued rubbing began to wear down the sharp edges. I finished with light polishing using a Bounty paper towel and SemiChrome metal polish. Now, after a couple of heat cycles the two relatively deep scratches are just about invisible.

 

Has the Tuono owner noticed your repair yet?

 

Thanks for the tip

[txrider]

Has the Tuono owner noticed your repair yet?

 

Thanks for the tip

 

 

You're welcome and the Tuono owner is mucho happy.

[Danr]

Does anyone here know how to clean up scuffs or marks on the MG Ti cans? Scotchbrite? Steel wool?

 

Here's why I'm asking... I just installed a new exhaust crossover and unlike the previous owner I fully seated the header pipes into the crossover (grease helps). This effectively moved my exhaust cans an inch or so towards the front of the bike so the exhaust can hanger clamps are farther up the cans than they used to be. This is good since they will support the cans better, but the clamps left marks on the cans at their old locations. I'd like to clean up the marks with something so they blend in a bit with the existing finish on the cans. Any suggestions?

 

Hide the "SIN" with another set of exhaust clamps over the offending area.