Need consumables for 12k service

[Guest Nogbad]

I need to get some of this Redline stuff for the gearbox and bevel drive. Is the consensus still that you don't need moly whatever in there if you are using Redline? Where are UK riders getting it from?

 

What fork oil is recommended by people?

 

I intend to fit a UFI filter, and continue with the diesel grade 10W40 unless I would be better with a 50 oil for summer. What about a 15W50 synth? I'm going to risk this loose filter thing, as it didn't happen to me yet.

[grossohc]

demon tweaks sell the redline shockproof heavy.

[big J]

They do indeed,but if you go direct to Redline,you wont be paying a demonic mark up.

 

Just search for Redline uk or something.

 

I like Castrol R4 15/50 synth,it doesnt seem to produce mayonnaise like the Mobil1 did in my case.

[Guest ratchethack]

I need to get some of this Redline stuff for the gearbox and bevel drive. Is the consensus still that you don't need moly whatever in there if you are using Redline?

Nog, there are many Pro's who will say that any Group 5 Ester based synthetic, of which RL Shockproof is one example (Amsoil and Motul being others), do not need moly additive.

 

Per the discussion here:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=8897&st=0#

 

It seems that Redline has been saying that their RLSH has "synthetic moly" in it.

 

I believe that "synthetic moly" is a fabrication of sales & marketing, (not of the industrial petrochem laboratory). IMHO it's a practical attempt by Redline to stop people from asking more technical questions than RL wants to handle without having to issue degrees in petrochemical engineering with their gorilla snot, but that's just me.

 

I've stood corrected before and wouldn't mind doing so again by anyone with credible info to the contrary.

 

What fork oil is recommended by people?

The Guzzi Service manual calls for 10 wt. dino FORK OIL for the 040 Marz fork. I've tried 10 wt., 7.5 wt., and synthetic 125/150 CARTRIDGE FORK FLUID, which I believe to be a superior product in terms of grade and service life. It's a different class of lubricant than FORK OIL. 125/150 is lighter (less viscous) than either 10 wt. or 7.5 wt. FORK OIL, and in my case, allowed me to get a more functional range of adjustability on the damping adjusters, and provides a more compliant feel.

 

But of course, that's just me, and YMMV.

[Guest Nogbad]

Thanks Hacker. I like the greater functional range thing. At the moment the front damping settings are about 1 or 2 clicks off minimum, so a lighter fluid would be indicated. Of course I do have those weirdly high rate springs..... Lets hope this cartridge fork fluid is easy to find.

 

Incidentally, are you a RLSH supporter or not for the bevel drive? I can get conventional gear oil and moly additive as per the manual, and my gearbox seems generally ok with dino in it, unless it gets really really hot.

[Guest ratchethack]

Incidentally, are you a RLSH supporter or not for the bevel drive? I can get conventional gear oil and moly additive as per the manual, and my gearbox seems generally ok with dino in it, unless it gets really really hot.

I think I've been using it now in both bevel drive and trans for 3 years. Per a post a couple of years back, there was a noticeable difference in smoothness immediately after switching over from "conventional" synthetic, and several times I noticed a surprising drop in operating temperature after longish trips:

 

"conventional" synthetic - too hot to hold palm on trans and bevel drive cases.

 

RLSH - very warm, but by no means too hot to keep palm against cases, even after hard, high-speed riding in hot weather.

[Guest Nogbad]

Good enough for me then, if I can find some.

[Ballacraine]

Interesting.....

 

You are using this without additional moly additive then?

 

How about the gearbox?

 

TIA

 

Nige.

[Guest ratchethack]

Yep. I believe that if you're using Group 5 ester base stock products, "No mo moly."

 

To clarify, I also believe that despite the Sales & Marketing language ("synthetic moly"), there is NO molybdenum disulfide in Redline Shockproof Heavy. As far as I'm concerned, if you ain't got no molybdenum, you ain't got no molybdenum disulfide, and that, my friend, means you ain't got no Moly.

 

In other words, I believe that they got sick of explaining to the "moly faithful" why Group 5 ester base stock synthetics are SO SUPERIOR to dino (mineral) that moly is no longer a benefit. Some people simply refuse to accept any change from wot they've always done, and once you START the "moly ritual", it seems to be harder for some to give up than going "cold turkey" off the hard sauce without gettin' the DT's.

 

There's no mention wotsoever of moly in any of the tech PDFs on Redline that I've seen, including at the links here:

 

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

 

I've also used it quite liberally on my speedo drive cable on numerous occasions over the years (without a trace of it showing up in the instrument head), per previous posts on this.

 

Makes a dandy floor wax when spilled in the shop.

 

In a pinch, its passable as a dessert topping.

 

Some might say it's "yummy", but YMMV.

Not valid where prohibited.

Prosecutors will be violated.

Violators will be spanked until they scream for more.

[Ballacraine]

[mark.gilmore]

I think I've been using it now in both bevel drive and trans for 3 years. Per a post a couple of years back, there was a noticeable difference in smoothness immediately after switching over from "conventional" synthetic, and several times I noticed a surprising drop in operating temperature after longish trips:

 

"conventional" synthetic - too hot to hold palm on trans and bevel drive cases.

 

RLSH - very warm, but by no means too hot to keep palm against cases, even after hard, high-speed riding in hot weather.

 

I found the same after just riding out the driveway, with smooth shifting,and cooler gearbox on long rides. only had RLH in for two weeks.

[Martin Barrett]

At what intervals do you change your Redline?

Mines been in for 15K miles should I be changing it - Obviously most of the gumph relates to cars where it's one fill for life.

[Baldini]

I phoned Redline. Tech told me Shockproof Heavy is recommended for V11 trans with no additive reqired: "...Shockproof Heavy is 75W90 but has EP rating of 250, way higher than conventional 90W with Moly added".

 

I've used it for a couple years now, seemed to improve shift slightly, never checked temp.

 

Since putting it in, trans stopped leaking oil onto crossover.

 

They reckon you don't need to change it....

 

I got it from Demon Tweeks. I didn't think to get it direct from Redline - do they supply small quantities direct BigJ?

 

In UK Motomecca (01202 823 453) or Corsa Italiana (0208 540 7155) mail order for service items.

 

KB

[big J]

Yes Keith,no problem.I just got the number off the internet,called them and had a wee chat.

It arrived about a week later,pretty good considering the Irish postal system makes Moto Guzzi look like Honda.

 

edit-Here ye go

 

0044(0)2476 717100 Redline Europe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Or maybe a it's a premium cost porn line

[Guest Nogbad]

Any good source for this cartridge fork fluid?